One of the best things I did was set up scaffold around the perimeter, so that instead of trying to bend over on my hands and knees the whole time, I was a a very comfortable height. Purchase your own moisture meter, and learn to use it. You can easily recoup its cost by not opening areas which are sound. I used a sharpie to do readings on the entire deck, then starting at the highest readings, drilled cores, working down the #'s till I hit dry core. Several more cores from lower readings confirmed I had all the moisture. Working alone I could cut out with a skil saw, bevel deck edges with an angle grinder with a 36 grit flap wheel, chisel out wet balsa with a 1" sharp chisel and a comfottable hammer, clean up and vacuum repair area, grind smooth bottom skin, fit and bond new balsa, and bag on 2 layers of glass in 6 hours to about 20 sq ft. measure and layout everything dry before you start. Work in bite size pieces you can handle each day. If you have genoa tracks, and other assorted hardware to areas you remove, before you apply the top skin, use the old fiberglass that you removed to mark where the bolts went through, and over drill and fill with thickened epoxy. easier to do it before you glass, than after. Have fun.
