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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been setting up the single line reefing system on our new to us boat. Not liking the amount of friction in the system. Thinking of adding a block at the luff reefing grommet instead of a ring. That might help BUT that is not why I'm posting. The problem is at the end of the mack pack and how the zipper and reefing lines are not playing nice. The reefing line exits the end of the boom, travels up to and thru the grommet down to the boom, under the boom and is secured to it self with a bowline. It works until I go to put the sail away. The reefing line interferes with the zipper that closes the mack pack. I have come up two solutions, cut a slit in the mack pack and pass the reefing line thru that then around the boom. Second solution is to pass the reefing line outside of the mack pack then around the boom. Not liking the second solution because the mack pack is pulled against the boom when reefing and it looks pretty lame when the sail is put away. The first solution would have the reefing line look a bit like the lazy jacks BUT if it doesn't work I now have a slit in the mack pack. Hopefully I have clearly described this problem. Is there a third solution other than tossing the mack pack?
 

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If you lay the reefing lines on top of the dropped main, won't they just disappeR inside the Mack pack as you run the zipper forward. Stack packs I've used were secured at the aft end to the topping lift or otherwise supported, creating a pocket over the sail, into which the folds of the sail and the loose reefing lines simply disappear.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I don't know if it was heat stroke or a brain fart but I did route the lines correctly. Out of the boom into the mack pack between the zipper and the mast. Now every thing closes up as it should.
 

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Is Mack Pack just another name for a Stack Pack, or is it something different?

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StackPack is a trademarked Doyle name, so others use different names like MackPack, MainPack, SailPack, etc. Kind of silly since "stackpack" has become a term like "kleenex", and Doyle no longer has anyone's mental connection with this term. They are all essentially the same in function, but Doyle's Stackpack is the only one I know of that sews the pack to the sail itself. A stupid thing, IMO, but they also have an option to not have it this way.

Using good blocks on the luff and leach reef points instead of the cringles or even low friction rings helps tremendously with single line reefing friction. The friction is essentially gone. Also stops the line chafe that often occurs.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Using good blocks on the luff and leach reef points instead of the cringles or even low friction rings helps tremendously with single line reefing friction. The friction is essentially gone. Also stops the line chafe that often occurs.
Is there a block that can be sewn onto the sail to take the place of the rings?
 

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Is there a block that can be sewn onto the sail to take the place of the rings?
I don't know, but that isn't how it is usually done. If you have cringles now for the reef lines to pass through, then you would put a webbing/ring dogbone through them and attach a regular block to the ring.

Mark

 

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Not liking the amount of friction in the system. Thinking of adding a block at the luff reefing grommet instead of a ring.
I did that and works much better.

Today I replace the 2nd reefing line. The length of the damn thing astounds me. :(


Mark
 

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I also have too much friction in my single line reefing system. A rigger recommended replacing the lines with thinner ones but I’m curious about your fix with the block, do you have any pictures?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I also have too much friction in my single line reefing system. A rigger recommended replacing the lines with thinner ones but I’m curious about your fix with the block, do you have any pictures?
Been doing other things on the "list" so the block installation has been pushed down. Soon, very very soon.
 

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I also have too much friction in my single line reefing system. A rigger recommended replacing the lines with thinner ones but I’m curious about your fix with the block, do you have any pictures?
What do you consider too much friction, is the friction too much for the halyard winch to easily overcome?

You might check and see if you have tweaked your lines to run the way shown in the diagram at 3:30 in
With the lines run this way, the single line works like a charm on the P31-2, no grommet blocks required..
 

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The friction is entirely in the boom, the lines jam inside the boom and make reefing and shaking out a reef slow and require a great deal of force applied to the lines at the end of the boom. Had zero problems with the system until a couple of years ago for some reason.
 

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The friction is entirely in the boom, the lines jam inside the boom and make reefing and shaking out a reef slow and require a great deal of force applied to the lines at the end of the boom. Had zero problems with the system until a couple of years ago for some reason.
Then blocks on the sail won't help. There shouldn't be much inside the boom, so it sounds like you got a line twisted with another, or a sheave is frozen.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hmmm....I don't think our boom has any internal blocks. Line runs from bottom of aft boom up to leech cringle down to sheave at boom end, thru the boom, pops out under a sheave at the mast, goes up to luff cringle then down to base of mast then back to cockpit.
 

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Hmmm....I don't think our boom has any internal blocks. Line runs from bottom of aft boom up to leech cringle down to sheave at boom end, thru the boom, pops out under a sheave at the mast, goes up to luff cringle then down to base of mast then back to cockpit.
Ours is the same way as yours. The internal block is a Schaefer system and helps to keep the tension even on both lines so they pull leech and luff down together.

Mark
 

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The friction is entirely in the boom, the lines jam inside the boom and make reefing and shaking out a reef slow and require a great deal of force applied to the lines at the end of the boom. Had zero problems with the system until a couple of years ago for some reason.
I expect your boat has the same system as the 1987 P31-2. Has anything been attached to the boom since new??

Each reefing line is two parts and inside the boom each reefing line has a shuttle block connecting the two parts. If anything had been mounted to the boom with bolts that protrude inside the boom surface, the shuttle blocks can/will hang up on the end of the bolt. Pull hard and you will bend out the straps on the blocks making the problem more frequent, then constant.

My experience came from the bolts the PO used to install lazy jacks.

Remove any fasteners which extend inside the boom, replace with bolts trimmed to just work or perhaps rivets. That may solve the problem.

If not, then remove the encap from the boom, extract each reefing line out till the shuttle blocks appear. Assuming the shuttle blocks are damaged, replace them. Best I know you cannot get OEM type shuttle blocks... you need to end-to-end a pair of small blocks.


PS you should join pearson-boats - Google Groups where Pearson subjects like this are daily fare
 

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Thanks - I watched that video many times to make sure I was using my single-line reefing system correctly and hadn't caused the problem myself, so I'm very familiar with it.

My initial theory was a bird had started a nest in the boom and caused friction in the system or damaged the shuttle blocks (evidence: some straw that came out with the reefing lines) but I had someone take a look at it to see if there was an obstruction and he couldn't find anything wrong. Maybe I should look myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Been doing other things on the "list" so the block installation has been pushed down. Soon, very very soon.
I added the blocks. There is less friction now. Maybe replace the rings on the main leech with low friction rings would help.
 
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