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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings! This is my first post. Thanks for having me! I just purchased a 1985 Cal 22 and I'm trying to understand the reefing setup. It seems to be a pretty straight forward single-line reefing system. There is a leech cringle and two reefing points in the middle of the sail for collecting the foot. But the luff cringle seems to be occupied by a plastic slug shackle. It is a beefier grommet than the ones above and below, which are occupied by plastic slug shackles, and it has reinforcement just like the leech cringle. There doesn't appear to be much space to use it for both a reefing line and a slug shackle. What do you suggest I do with this so that I can reef the mainsail? Do I remove that slug shackle and if so, for a single line reef would I run the reefing line through the cringle or use a D-Ring or? The slugs are spaced more closely together than other boats I've sailed, so maybe it would be okay to forego that slug but I'm sure I would lose performance, right? For reference, this sail has full battens and I'm not sure if it is the original main or not.

Additionally, I'm including a photo of a hook system on the low port side of the mast. Do you think this might be for the Cunningham cringle?

Thanks for everyone's time! This is the first sailboat I've owned. I'll be sailing this boat from St. Helens area to Portland on the Columbia River soon to relocate it and it will be my first trip on it. I want to make sure I have reefing down before the trip. A previous owner kind of messed up the electrical wiring so I need to get the navigational lights reliably operational before the trip, but that's another matter :)
Image is of the luff cringle.

136475


136476
 

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When I do slab reefing, I tighten the foot as tight as I can possibly make it. I doubt the plastic shackle would hold up for long in that situation.
 

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When I do slab reefing, I tighten the foot as tight as I can possibly make it. I doubt the plastic shackle would hold up for long in that situation.
It’s a 22 ft boat. Many midrange sized boats pre 1990 had those same plastic slugs. Not saying it’s the best , but there were not tens of thousands of failures either.

So we got your criticism,......what’s your solution?
 

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It’s a 22 ft boat. Many midrange sized boats pre 1990 had those same plastic slugs. Not saying it’s the best , but there were not tens of thousands of failures either.

So we got your criticism,......what’s your solution?
Put another grommet in for the slug or reefing tack? Just suggesting not to use the plastic as part of reefing. Didn't you usually pull the first slide or slug out of the track or groove when reefing anyway? Tighten the hoist then tighten the outhaul.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would open up that luff crinkle for both a slug and Cunningham hook as its obviously reinforced and for reefing.

Thanks for your reply. I'm not understanding how I would use the halyard shackle in the link to use that luff cringle for both a slug and Cunningham hook. Also, I'm confused by the mention of the Cunningham hook (which I think is what I've shown in the second photo) for the Reef Cringle. Are you supposing to use that hook for my Luff Reefing Cringle?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Put another grommet in for the slug or reefing tack? Just suggesting not to use the plastic as part of reefing. Didn't you usually pull the first slide or slug out of the track or groove when reefing anyway? Tighten the hoist then tighten the outhaul.
I've thought it not a good idea to incorporate the plastic slug into the reefing system, which is why I am surprised that the luff cringle also plays the role of grommet for a slug shackle.
I have only sailed about three other boats with slugs (similar size boats to the Cal 22) and I'm pretty sure their slugs were spaced out further than on my mainsail. I'm wondering if it could be that a previous owner maybe added additional grommets to the luff to install more slugs and also decided to use the luff cringle in their endeavor to have more slugs. What is the acceptable range of grommet spacing for slugs on this boat? If that is sail size dependent, I can get that information. It is a fractional rig, fyi
 

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I've thought it not a good idea to incorporate the plastic slug into the reefing system, which is why I am surprised that the luff cringle also plays the role of grommet for a slug shackle.
I have only sailed about three other boats with slugs (similar size boats to the Cal 22) and I'm pretty sure their slugs were spaced out further than on my mainsail. I'm wondering if it could be that a previous owner maybe added additional grommets to the luff to install more slugs and also decided to use the luff cringle in their endeavor to have more slugs. What is the acceptable range of grommet spacing for slugs on this boat? If that is sail size dependent, I can get that information. It is a fractional rig, fyi
Perhaps the former owner didn't realize that that grommet was for reefing and not for a slug?
 

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Does your boom have reef hooks/bullhorns at the front? On the small boats I've sailed on, I've hooked a cringle or dogbone over said reef hook to hold down the new tack when reefing. I feel like the cunningham hook may do admirably to hold the tack down, but not forward. This would result in a bagged-out foot, which is not what you want with reefing.

If you want to keep the slug, and you have reef hooks, it looks like you could sneak a dyneema loop or soft shackle into the cringle next to the slug shackle.
 

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What is the acceptable range of grommet spacing for slugs on this boat?
I don't know if there is a standard, but on our main, which is much larger than yours, there are cars (slugs for yours) at each batten, and one between each batten. This was the same on our previous two boats too.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Does your boom have reef hooks/bullhorns at the front? On the small boats I've sailed on, I've hooked a cringle or dogbone over said reef hook to hold down the new tack when reefing. I feel like the cunningham hook may do admirably to hold the tack down, but not forward. This would result in a bagged-out foot, which is not what you want with reefing.

If you want to keep the slug, and you have reef hooks, it looks like you could sneak a dyneema loop or soft shackle into the cringle next to the slug shackle.
My boom does not have reef hooks/bullhorns. I see what you are saying about the cunningham hook not providing any forward tension.
The reefing line runs on the starboard side of the mast, from an aft cheekblock to a forward cheek block. As you can see in the photo below, currently the reefing line goes down to a block at the base of the mast then to a cleat at the on the cabin top near the cockpit. So it is setup to only reef the clew, currently. Would it be a good idea to install a D-ring/Dyneema spectacle or an air block at the luff cringle, run the reef line from forward cheek block up to that, then down to bock at the base of the mast? Then I would have the single line system. Is it ok/proper to have a reef line pull from only one side of the luff as opposed to through the cringle? With the system I'm describing, I'm think I would add a fairlead on the starbard aft mast, between the bottom of mast block and the starboard side luff cringle D-Ring or Air Block.
I'm very open to suggestion! Like I originally posted, it's my first boat :) And I appreciate you all hanging in there with my likely sloppy or incorrect use of terms, etc.
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Is it ok/proper to have a reef line pull from only one side of the luff as opposed to through the cringle?
Yes. If you use a dog bone, you will in effect be pulling through the cringle, but many sails have reef points with blocks on one side only without a cringle at all.

Mark
 

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My boom does not have reef hooks/bullhorns. I see what you are saying about the cunningham hook not providing any forward tension.
The reefing line runs on the starboard side of the mast, from an aft cheekblock to a forward cheek block. As you can see in the photo below, currently the reefing line goes down to a block at the base of the mast then to a cleat at the on the cabin top near the cockpit. So it is setup to only reef the clew, currently. Would it be a good idea to install a D-ring/Dyneema spectacle or an air block at the luff cringle, run the reef line from forward cheek block up to that, then down to bock at the base of the mast? Then I would have the single line system. Is it ok/proper to have a reef line pull from only one side of the luff as opposed to through the cringle? With the system I'm describing, I'm think I would add a fairlead on the starbard aft mast, between the bottom of mast block and the starboard side luff cringle D-Ring or Air Block.
I'm very open to suggestion! Like I originally posted, it's my first boat :) And I appreciate you all hanging in there with my likely sloppy or incorrect use of terms, etc.
View attachment 136482
Is there not a bolt going through the gooseneck you could attach reefing hooks to?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don't know if there is a standard, but on our main, which is much larger than yours, there are cars (slugs for yours) at each batten, and one between each batten. This was the same on our previous two boats too.

Mark
As you can see with the photo I've added above of my Main/Mast/Boom, the spacing is a little funny. The luff cringle slug is fairly close to the batten slug above, but if the cringle slug was removed the above batten slug would be further from the next down slug than any of the other slug spacing. I'm not sure if it would be a problem to just remove that slug or if I need to relocate it below the cringle, centered between the above and below slugs.

Let's say I have that luff cringle open, either because I just remove the slug or because I relocate it, what would be the best way to keep the reefing line on the starboard side of the boom leading to a block at the base of the mast and leading to the starboard cockpit? Would it be okay to have the reefing line only pulling down on the starboard side of the luff cringle (like through a D-Ring) opposed to pulling down on it more centrally (with the line going through the cringle)?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes. If you use a dog bone, you will in effect be pulling through the cringle, but many sails have reef points with blocks on one side only without a cringle at all.

Mark
I'm not familiar with a dog bone so I will have to look up exactly what that is and how it would fit in there. Would a reefing line move smoothly through that for a single line reefing system?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes. If you use a dog bone, you will in effect be pulling through the cringle, but many sails have reef points with blocks on one side only without a cringle at all.

Mark
I looked up a dog bone and it is a loop with a toggle, kinda? I could slide that through the cringle and around the luff. It could then be used to hang an air block just a SS ring for the reefing line to go through?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is there not a bolt going through the gooseneck you could attach reefing hooks to?
I'm not at the boat to say right now, but I'm sure there would be a way to attach reefing hooks. I would then put a dyneema/d-ring spectacle through the cringle, hook it to the reef hook, and operate the line for the leech reef only? I don't think I would terribly mind having to go to the mast to hook that and then use one line for the leech reef. At that point I would consider running the leech reef line back from the forward boom cheek block to a cleat on the boom, eliminating the route down from the boom to the deck and back to the cockpit.

Thanks everyone for helping me work through this. I'm getting closer to generating a plan.
 

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I'm not at the boat to say right now, but I'm sure there would be a way to attach reefing hooks. I would then put a dyneema/d-ring spectacle through the cringle, hook it to the reef hook, and operate the line for the leech reef only? I don't think I would terribly mind having to go to the mast to hook that and then use one line for the leech reef. At that point I would consider running the leech reef line back from the forward boom cheek block to a cleat on the boom, eliminating the route down from the boom to the deck and back to the cockpit.

Thanks everyone for helping me work through this. I'm getting closer to generating a plan.
Personally, I'd have it all up at the mast if you had to go up anyway. Ease the sheet first, then go forward and drop the halyard to the marked spot, attach the tack, pull out the clew, then pull the halyard tight. Go aft and sheet in. Many will reef in the slip, if they can, (kinda hard in a down wind slip) and are expecting to need it, as it is much easier to shake it out than put one in when needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Personally, I'd have it all up at the mast if you had to go up anyway. Ease the sheet first, then go forward and drop the halyard to the marked spot, attach the tack, pull out the clew, then pull the halyard tight. Go aft and sheet in. Many will reef in the slip, if they can, (kinda hard in a down wind slip) and are expecting to need it, as it is much easier to shake it out than put one in when needed.
That makes sense. In that case I would install a cleat on the boom just aft of the forward cheek block, right? Lower main, hook tack reef, pull luff reef line and tie off to cleat, then pull halyard tight.

Unfortunately, I think, this boat does not currently have a topping lift fitted so to raise or lower main sail we will have to hang the boom. I'm not much into that because the boom and sail are not able to follow into the wind, so not much room for the boat to be slightly out of the eye of the wind. This is something I would like to change at some point, but right now I'm just trying to get the reef sorted and the navigational lights operable so we can relocated the boat upriver in the next couple weeks.
 
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