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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a Datamarine S-200DL depth sounder that isn't working. I have checked power to the back of the unit and it is fine. The switch on the back for night works because the light turns on. However I am getting nothing on the LCD display. I am sure this is just a problem with the head unit but I want to remove the transducer as well to make sure it is nice and clean. Here are a couple images of my equipment for reference...




Can I just slide the plastic transducer out of the bulkhead tube, or does the boat need to be hauled out and the entire bulkhead removed to service the transducer?

Or an I showing a picture of the speed impeller? hahaha
Here is another picture of one of the other sensor bulkheads...


Thanks,
Zac
 

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Likely the last pic is your sounder transducer.. no need to remove - usually not easily removable in any case. To clean it you can brush the hull or do it during a haulout.

The first transducer looks like a speed paddlewheel, they are usually removable but be prepared for a surprisingly rapid flow of water - and you should have a (proper) plug in your other hand to put in its place. It's common to remove and plug these prior to a haulout so there's no chance a strap will crush the paddlewheel.

It's possible that the display itself has died, but usually they bleed out black when they fail. If you have a voltmeter make sure you've got 12V at the power terminals on the back of the sounder, it's possible that a replacement display is available from Datamarine (I know Signet still supports their older equipment) - they are usually well under $100.

FWIW our old Signet recently started acting up - I was able to successfully interface a new Raymarine DS display head to the old, original transducer - and gained considerable range in the process.
 

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Likely the last pic is your sounder transducer.. no need to remove - usually not easily removable in any case. To clean it you can brush the hull or do it during a haulout.

The first transducer looks like a speed paddlewheel, they are usually removable but be prepared for a surprisingly rapid flow of water - and you should have a (proper) plug in your other hand to put in its place. It's common to remove and plug these prior to a haulout so there's no chance a strap will crush the paddlewheel.

It's possible that the display itself has died, but usually they bleed out black when they fail. If you have a voltmeter make sure you've got 12V at the power terminals on the back of the sounder, it's possible that a replacement display is available from Datamarine (I know Signet still supports their older equipment) - they are usually well under $100.

FWIW our old Signet recently started acting up - I was able to successfully interface a new Raymarine DS display head to the old, original transducer - and gained considerable range in the process.
faster!

where? direct from signet I got a quote of 300 for a new display, as you know I went with an inhull garmin fishfinder solution on my islander since my hull isnt cored

my depthsounder display on my m25 is blacked out like you say...

however I have a very nice removable transducer hooked up under the vberth

I would love to know of any cheap displays to be had out there...too. do you have a link to share of the raymarine ds display you interfaced?
 

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faster!

where? direct from signet I got a quote of 300 for a new display, as you know I went with an inhull garmin fishfinder solution on my islander since my hull isnt cored

my depthsounder display on my m25 is blacked out like you say...

however I have a very nice removable transducer hooked up under the vberth

I would love to know of any cheap displays to be had out there...too. do you have a link to share of the raymarine ds display you interfaced?
Christian

By 'display' I was referring to the actual LCD module itself, not the entire display head. The module is around $60US, I've ordered a couple of them over the years from Signet in Torrence CA. Oddly, on the DS it was a plug-in, for the knotmeter I had to de-solder the old and solder the new back in.

The RM depth display head I connected to was the now-discontinued ST40. I was able to strip the original tranducer wire and find the combination that worked on the RM head..(no custom plug, just terminal screws)

ST40 Features
 
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Christian

By 'display' I was referring to the actual LCD module itself, not the entire display head. The module is around $60US, I've ordered a couple of them over the years from Signet in Torrence CA. Oddly, on the DS it was a plug-in, for the knotmeter I had to de-solder the old and solder the new back in.

The RM depth display head I connected to was the now-discontinued ST40. I was able to strip the original tranducer wire and find the combination that worked on the RM head..(no custom plug, just terminal screws)

ST40 Features
You connected the datamarine depth to a st40? how?
What about the paddlewheel?
Did the ST 40 have a better alarm then the datamarine unit does?
 

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Datamarine is long gone, but the service personnel formed a new company, DMI marine, and will service old datamarine instruments.

I used them to rejuvenate failing datamarine wind, depth, and speed on a previous boat and found them reasonably priced, prompt, and very helpful.
 

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You connected the datamarine depth to a st40? how?
What about the paddlewheel?
Did the ST 40 have a better alarm then the datamarine unit does?
Not quite... I connected a 25 yr old Signet transducer to an RM ST40 head. I was speculating that you might be able to do the same with an old Datamarine transducer too - most were 200 kHz and that's the match you need. Not much can really go wrong with the tranducers themselves, but with the old ones you do lose the temperature indication capability.

Not sure about cross-compatibility of the paddlewheel speed transducers...
 

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I used them to rejuvenate failing datamarine wind, depth, and speed on a previous boat and found them reasonably priced, prompt, and very helpful.
They are still helpful, but the prices have gone beyond anything reasonable.
$775 gets you a new masthead unit from them now. Seriously you can get a new raymarine tridata cheaper then they sell the old datamarine stuff.
 

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My 1985 Cal has Datamarine Instruments that still work pretty well. Yes, your first pic is the speed transducer and the second is the depth. As noted, DMI is still in business repairing the instruments. Worth contacting them about repairing your head unit. Here's the link.
DMI Marine, Inc.

My depth unit starting acting up this season. I was pretty sure it was the transducer as the head unit seemed to function fine - just getting weird depths at times and sometimes just an error message. Replacements were available from DMI (not cheap) and I didn't want to haut the boat mid-season just for that. I bought a cheap refurbished ($70) powerboat depth system online and spliced the transducer into the original depth transducer cable in the bilge and epoxied the new transducer to the hull. This was intended to be a short term fix but it works so good I am going to leave it at is. If the transducer change didn't work, I was going to mount the new smaller display in the old Datamarine housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks everyone for your help. Over the weekend I had tried using a Garmin Echo 101 fish finder and use the toilet wax method of mounting the transducer inside the hull. I could not get the unit to register anything unless I actually taped the transducer to a pole and hang it over the boat. Then it worked great. I don't really know why the wax method didn't work because other people online said it would work.

What kind of epoxy did you use to mount your refurbished transducer?
 

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Thanks everyone for your help. Over the weekend I had tried using a Garmin Echo 101 fish finder and use the toilet wax method of mounting the transducer inside the hull. I could not get the unit to register anything unless I actually taped the transducer to a pole and hang it over the boat. Then it worked great. I don't really know why the wax method didn't work because other people online said it would work.

What kind of epoxy did you use to mount your refurbished transducer?
I cleaned a spot on the inside of the hull near where the DM transducer was mounted. I then used some thickened West Systems epoxy. It is important to get a good air bubble free seal. My preliminary attempts using some grease to see if transducer worked with the DM display were iffy. Sometimes it worked and other times it didn't. This summer I was reliably reading depths to over 200 feet.

FWIW here's the unit I bought. I selected the transom/glue in option.
Boat Depth Finder | Boat Mount Recertified
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you so much for the link. The video on the Hawk Eye website was very helpful. I guess I should have tried the plastic bag with water in it to test the Echo 101 transducer. I just used the toilet wax so I must have had air bubbles or something in the way.
 

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Glad it helped Zac. I think the issue with toilet wax or grease or similar things is that you need a decent coupling to the hull to allow the sound to transmit and the transducer to pick up the echo. Sometimes hard to get that.
 

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Remember in-hull transducers only work of your hull is solid (not cored). A cored hull, or a hull some layup problems (delamination/voids) can block the signal. The bag of water trick is the best way to find the optimal position...
 

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yeah zac is your hull cored? you also have to sand FLAT or have a non glass fiber surface...

after that blob on your wax leave about an inch thick depth then squeeze your transducer(the right way) and leave it be, do not press down too much as youll have no wax to couple with



worked for me in the bilge in the same spot the thru hull transducer lives...on my islander 36
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am pretty sure the hull is solid but I am not positive. I went ahead and got another fish finder and when i get a chance I will do the plastic bag of water install and see what location is best.
 
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