SailNet Community banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Leapfrog
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Its 20 degrees outside and I'm removing the rudder and prop shaft on my day off - I must be nuts!

First the reason I need a new prop shaft. The prop shaft corroded between the two retains nuts at the end of the shaft. I discovered this when I tried to remove the end nut and the shaft broke between the nuts with minimal effort - there was very little metal holding it together.

What I have done so far.
Removed the rudder by myself - that was fun.
Removed the set screw that connects the shaft to the coupler.
Loosened the stuffing box.
Sprayed the shaft and coupler with liquid wrench
Tried tapping the base of the prop - does not budge.

I am afraid to give it a good whack because I don't want to destroy the gearbox. I thought of using a torch but I hesitate because the fuel tank is about a foot away.

Info
Pearson P30
Atomic 4

If you have any tips I would appreciate it.

MB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,889 Posts
You should be able to remove the (4) bolts holding the two halves of the coupler together, then slide the shaft aft. This would give you good access to "operate" on the half of the coupler attached to the shaft.

A gear puller would be good; heat and banging might work, too. At least you'll not be doing any damage to the gearbox this way :)

Good luck and stay warm.

Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,708 Posts
Sailnet's word-trashing feature has screwed up the URL. Here, use this one http://tinyurl.com/a25s3o

Hint to posters: Get in the habit of always using TinyURL.com - shorten that long URL into a Tiny URL, or similar, when posting URLs that have sailing-related real words in them, otherwise Sailnet's word-trashing code will break them. Also: Make sure to uncheck "Automatically retrieve titles from external links," under "Additional Options," or Sailnet's word-trashing "feature" might mangle your URL, anyway.

The downside is that tinyurl references eventually expire, so older Sailnet articles will become somewhat useless, and having anonymous URLs is less handy than reader-friendly text, but it's either those things or have URLS be immediately useless.

Jim
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,772 Posts
With..

With all due respect your shaft is toast so rather than risk damage to the tranny I would advise cutting it out. Couplings usually, and when I say this I mean like 95% of the time, are NOT reusable due to the tolerance lost from breaking the layer of rust free.

More often than not, with old shafts & couplings, you can not separate them. If you need a new shaft any way just cut it out with a 4" angle grinder and a cut off wheel. It will take three minutes max. If this is a split coupling you may get it off but if it is a solid coupling why risk it..

Also here are some warnings:

#1 Never, ever use a slide hammer to remove a prop shaft if it is connected to the tranny. I have seen inexperienced "summer help" shatter a tranny case doing this.. "Look it moved!"

#2 Never bang on the shaft or coupling if it is connected to the tranny. You can damage the bearings and create flat spots! if you must bang on it use a brass, coper or lead hammer..

#3 Always use PB Blaster, Kroil or Thrust!! Liquid Wrench, WD-40 etc. suck at penetrating!!

#4 Never, ever get any penetrating oil on or near your transmissions output shaft seal!!! It will eat it and ruin it requiring a tranny rebuild. Never use the spray feature near any output shaft seals and always dab it on with an artists brush or flux brush instead.


Your shaft is already toast, cut it before doing any potential damage to the tranny!!

Just my .02!

PSS Installation (LINK)
 

·
Leapfrog
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks to all the members of the sailnet technical support team (do any of you have jobs? ;-). Special thanks to Maine Sail for a great website and the best advice - just cut the shaft. Why didn't I think of that?

Last question - where can I find a prop shaft?
MB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Thanks to all the members of the sailnet technical support team (do any of you have jobs? ;-). Special thanks to Maine Sail for a great website and the best advice - just cut the shaft. Why didn't I think of that?

Last question - where can I find a prop shaft?
MB
Try calling Bob at LI Yacht Service in Huntington (631 549 4687). LI Yacht Service is at 135 West Shore Road, Huntington near West Shore Marina -- small shop and have been helpful to me in the past.

Stay warm!

Chris
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,772 Posts
Found this website when looking for a driveshaft. Illustrates Mainsails advice about slidehammers!

Propeller Shaft Removal

MB

And that guy still does not get it!! :eek:A slide hammer should NEVER be used with a shaft connected to a transmission no matter how lightly you slide it.. Clearly his "expert" was not an expert but rather a hack. A slide hammer should only be used on a shaft already out of a boat. Hacks use slide hammers and ruin transmissions. If the coupling will not come off you can try drilling and splitting it but this is very labor intensive and will usually end up with a ruined shaft anyway...

Trust me many boat yards have slide hammers and use them it does NOT make it a safe or proper practice and it takes very little to create a flat spot in an output bearing or race..
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,772 Posts
Maine Sail
I'm on Long Island.

Hamilton Marine now does shafting work, actually they sub it out, and the prices are fairly good. You'll need to know diameter, length and which coupling you use. Now is a good time to install a PSS...

Oh and when you put it back together use Tef-Gel on the shaft and inside the coupling. It totally prevented any rusting on mine. After two years my coupling came off 100% rust free and with all the original tolerances intact and not destroyed by a thin layer of rust.

Prior to installation I coated the inside of the coupling, the key way, the key and the shaft with a liberal amount of Tef-Gel.. While most of it was wiped away by the very tight tolerances when assembling it the anti-corrosion abilities were unharmed. After removal both the shaft and inside of the coupling had a thick feeling, extra tacky layer of protective Tef-Gel.

Mike, the manager at my prop shop, thought for sure the Tef-Gel would have been totally wiped away and would add noting but it survived. The nice thing about Tef-Gel is that unlike Anti-Seize products that contain graphite or metals it does not add to galvanic corrosion issues.. It also works very, very well as a rust inhibitor..

My coupling came off like it was new with NO penetrating oil and only two bolts with my gear/hub puller.

On my last boat, which was brand new, I ran it for less than three months then hauled to change to a PSS. In just three months of use the coupling was already rusted on!!

Tef-Gel works!!!

After two plus years it came right off:

No RUST!

The Shaft:

Better Lighting Showing NO RUST!!






This photo shows NO Tef-Gel after just three months (note the rust adhered to the shaft that broke off the internal surface of the coupling):
 

·
Leapfrog
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
And that guy still does not get it!! :eek:A slide hammer should NEVER be used with a shaft connected to a transmission no matter how lightly you slide it..
HE DOES GET IT, UNFORTUNATELY - Read the whole page its quite funny (because its not me) - he writes how he DESTROYED his transmission because of the slide hammer.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,772 Posts
HE DOES GET IT, UNFORTUNATELY - Read the whole page its quite funny (because its not me) - he writes how he DESTROYED his transmission because of the slide hammer.
this was the comment from that web site I was referring to;

Remember when I said remember this spot in the story? Well here is some advice from some experts I talked to. Before using the shaft removal tool, the shaft coupler should be removed from the transmission. Apply penetrating oil to the front and back side of the coupler. Also apply oil to the key way. Inspect for excess amounts of corrosion and rust. Tap with a hammer to try to loosen the rust between the coupler and the shaft. Add more penetrating oil, making sure you allow enough time for the oil to penetrate deep into the coupler. Connect the coupler back on the transmission and use the removal tool.
Even after shattering his transmission to pieces he advises a few taps with a hammer, some penetrating oil and to go at it again with the slide hammer... D'oh;)
 

·
Leapfrog
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Mainsail,

I see - I guess he'll get it when he destroys the next tranny!

Everyone,

Does anyone have experience with Kruger and Sons or Deep Blue Yacht Supply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
You likely already know this and I'm not technical, but this summer I had my Propeller shaft replaced and somehow they didn't get the pitch of my propeller reset correctly. When I took the boat out, the boat would not move beyond 2knots though my RPMs were at 2000!! They had to pull the boat out again to fix. So, be sure to check your prop pitch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
I got a SS shaft fabricated at a machine shop in Key Largo, FL for $600 a couple years back. SS is like gold!
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top