SailNet Community banner
  • SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Replace bulbs in cabin lights with LEDs

8583 Views 34 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  xort
I've got a few cabin lights in my 27' Catalina and I'd like to replace the bulbs with LEDs. Problem is most of the LED bulbs you see for sale are made to project the light the same way as the socket, where as in our cabin lights the light needs to shine 90 degrees down. Has anybody found an inexpensive solution?

I was able to reuse some LED running lights that I kept when I replaced the lights on the trailer for my last boat. Looking for a DIY solution rather then some ridiculously marked up ready to go package.
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
one of these may work...

West Marine: LED Replacement Bulbs Product Display 710&Ne=0&Ntt=led&Ntk=Primary Search&Ntx=mode matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=led&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=13045
Your personal project should include some kind of current or voltage regulation. This way you get constant brightness regardless your battery voltage, and longer lifespan. That explain why some models cost a bit more than rasonable.
SuperBrightLEDs.com

I found some very suitable replacement "bulbs" for my cabin lights at the above web site - they are small, square circuit-board panels with nine flat LEDs, wired to a bayonet-bulb base. They were less than 1/3 the price of WestMarine's "Dr. LED" bulbs.
(I tried to upload a photo but "Upload failed.")
I to am using these that you are speaking of. I got them off ebay " cheep"
You can get them in 8 -10 -20-even 50 led in a board. I oped for the 8 leds per board and they are damn bright! my v/o/m reads less than 0.2 draw when 4 " light fixtures" of them are on...
rick to post links and pics you need 10 posts
Cool thanks for the links. I got impatient and ordered 2 bulbs off ebay for $20 (total shipped).

Here's a link to a pic of the ones I got:


Although if I would have seen this first:
Product Listing - OTHER
I probably would have ordered one of those. I'll give the ones I got a try and then order more based on how happy I am with those. I've got 2 more cabin lights to upgrade, but wanted to see how well these work first.
See less See more
We replaced all of the bulbs on our boat with Sensibulbs. You can orient them vertically or horizontally. The light they cast is almost indistinguishable from Halogen or other incandescents, with a soft brilliance. They aren't cheap, but they are incredible. We tried the inexpensive ones but were never happy with the output levels or light quality.
Anybody else have experience with the "superbrightleds" mentioned above? I've been putting off upgrading for a while now because of the expense, but this is pretty attractive. They carry 120 lumen dome lights for less than half the cost of the equivalent Dr LED stuff.
Anybody else have experience with the "superbrightleds" mentioned above? I've been putting off upgrading for a while now because of the expense, but this is pretty attractive. They carry 120 lumen dome lights for less than half the cost of the equivalent Dr LED stuff.
They got my lights to me quickly, they worked as advertised, I'm really pleased with the lights, and I wish they had a bulb that I could use in my AquaSignal stern light! :D
I agree with the Sensibulb recommendation. I have a bunch and they are outstanding. You can point them any way you like.
There's a fantastic post by MaineSail where he tested each type of LED replacement bulb and graded them on brightness, coverage area , and- most importantly - color. Apparently some of them have an annoying color.

It's one of the very best posts on Sailnet, I suggest anyone reading this thread check it out.
There's a fantastic post by MaineSail where he tested each type of LED replacement bulb and graded them on brightness, coverage area , and- most importantly - color. Apparently some of them have an annoying color.
Indeed... I've got some LEDs from a local chandlery and I must say they make the cabin feel like a morgue :( Will have a look around for the MS's post.
Instead of just replacing the bulbs, I've been considering replacing my dome lights with dual color white/red LED dome's...

LED Dome Cabin Light - Surface Mount

has anyone used these or seen them in use before? They have the voltage regulation built in (hence the price) so they should hold up pretty well.
Instead of just replacing the bulbs, I've been considering replacing my dome lights with dual color white/red LED dome's...

LED Dome Cabin Light - Surface Mount

has anyone used these or seen them in use before? They have the voltage regulation built in (hence the price) so they should hold up pretty well.
I found it cheaper to use ABI fixtures and put LED bulbs into them. I also got a better choice of fixtures and bulbs. By all means, use a bulb with voltage regulation built into it. Otherwise the brightness changes with the battery voltage.
I tried Dr. LED domes a couple of years ago and hated the light quality. I don't think they fared so well in the Practical Sailor reviews either. We bought ABI domes with dual sockets and used Sensibulb White and Sensibulb Red bulbs.
I am refitting mine with LED strips from - LEDs - underbody kits, cathodes, flexible LED strips, dome lights - they have others for all kinds of things. Shipping is better than expected and look for write-ups on my blog..
Hi All,

I went ahead a acquired five different high output interior 12v LED bulbs for comparison.

I wanted to capture the actual beam width and the light color as best I could. I brought the bulbs home and set them up in my garage to shine on the back of the white garage door. I placed the test fixture 25" from the door and use a Deep Cycle battery at a 13.2V float stage charge to power them.

In order to capture every bulb with everything being equal I used a Nikon D-200 DSLR on a tripod with no flash and the garage was pitch black except for the one bulb being photographed. I even re-shot each and every bulb as new ones came in the mail so they were always shot within minutes of each other and at the same level of darkness in the garage. In between shoots I also moved the fixture and camera so I wanted every bulb to be in the exact same position to be fair. The camera was set to manual mode and every picture was taken remotely and on the same exact setting, so all could be as equal as possible. The camera settings were: 1s f/10.0 at 24.0mm iso200

Please note that a camera sees color temperatures differently than the naked eye and tends to skew everything to a warmer glow. The yellow/oragie tints are actually nice and warm and the whitest bulb, the Dr. LED, is almost blue in the real world.

None of the photos, where light was captured, was post processed or run through any photo editing software. This is how they came out of the camera.

I chose these settings because it gave a clearer delineation of where the effective light spread stopped and petered into darkness.


Current Draw is as follows:

20W Halogen = 1.745 amps
10W Halogen =.87 amps
Sensibulb = .194 amps
MarineBeam 6 bulb = .158 amps
MarineBeam 10 bulb = .188 amps
Dr. LED = .138 amps
Superbrite LED = .141 amps

To put it in perspective one 10W Halogen bulb uses 4.48 times (448% more) electricity than does one Sensibulb and one 20W halogen uses 8.9 times (899% more) electricity than the Sensibulb which was the highest drawing of the LED's tested.

This is the Dr. LED G4 / MR-11 it had the narrowest beam width and the coldest bluish color. It was also the least bright with the lowest current draw at .138 amps. At $28.99 I think the MarineBeam bulb is a better value and if you compare price, with beam width and light output, it can't really compare to the Sensibulb in warmness or beam width:


This is the SuperBrite LED's
MR-11 WHP6. It's a six SMD bulb and a decent knock off to the Marinebeam MR-11-6 below. To the naked eye looks virtually identical but the lighting & current draw tell a different story. It has a cold blueish tint and is slightly less bright than the MarineBeam MR-11-6. At $14.95 it is a decent value but certainly not the best color representation. Another clue that it is not the same exact bulb as the Marinebeam is the current draw. This bulb drew .141 amps and the Marinebeam drew .158 amps.

This is the MarineBeam G4 / MR-11-6 it uses 6 SMD LED's and had a much wider beam width than the Dr. LED and about the same as the Superbrite LED bulb but was noticeably warmer in color output. Though the Sensibulb was considerably warmer and more natural looking this was the second most natural looking and fairly close to an incandescent bulbs color. It was brighter and warmer than the Dr. LED bulb and the Superbrite LED and at $24.99 it is a lot cheaper than the Sensibulb. It's a good choice for a price conscious user & it consumes .158 amps :


This is the MarineBeam G4/MR-11-10. Like the G4/MR-11-6 it uses SMD LED's but instead of six it uses ten. It was brighter but notably colder than it's smaller sibling bulb. At $27.99 it is a lot cheaper than the Sensibulb and a good choice for a price conscious user who needs more light output than the G4/MR-11-6 type bulbs can give.. I was not impressed with the color rendering of this bulb and it is tending towards colder rather than warmer especially when compared to the other MarineBeam bulb. It consumes .188 amps :



This is the Sensibulb and it fits both horizontal and vertical fixtures it had the widest beam width, even hitting & wrapping up onto the ceiling. It also had the warmest most incandescent like light output and was definitely the brightest of the tree bulbs but also the most expensive at $39.95 ea. It was significantly brighter than the Dr. LED bulb but also drew the most current of the three LED's at .194 amps (note the reflection off the ceiling and keep in mind this bulb was only 24" from the door):



I have also included this G4 10W Halogen bulb photo for comparison. It draws .88 amps or 448% more than the Sensibulb:


Here's a G4 20W Halogen bulb it draws 1.745A or 899% more than the Sensibulb. In terms of light output the Sensibulb falls in between the 20 watt and the 10 watt halogens..



These are the bulbs tested:

From L to R: Sensibulb, Marinebeam G4/MR-11-10, Marinebeam G4/MR-11-6, SuperBrite LED MR-11 WHP6, Doctor LED Mr-11

Front Row: 10 Watt G4 Halogen, 20 Watt G4 Halogen


Test Fixture:



Lumens:

The question of lumens comes up a lot so here it is straight from Practical Sailor. The lower the color temp the warmer the bulb. The Sensibulb is still the widest and brightest.

Here's the technical color temp and lumen data from the Practical Sailor test:

Sensibulb (Daylight)= 150 lumens / 60" beam width / 2990 color temp

Sensibulb (Soft Light)= 130 lumens / 58" beam width / 2650 color temp

Cruising solutions MR 11 6P
= 72 lumens / 48" beam width / 3300 color temp

Cruising solutions MR 16 9P[/b]= 108 lumens / 44" beam width / 3300 color temp

Dr. LED MR-11= 35 lumens / 25" beam width / 3850 color temp

P.S. If you mention to the folks at Sailors Solutions that you read about the Sensibulb here, Nick, one of the owners, has agreed to give 10% off..:D
See less See more
10
Here's the technical color temp and lumen data from the Practical Sailor test:

Sensibulb (Daylight)= 150 lumens / 60" beam width / 2990 color temp

Sensibulb (Soft Light)= 130 lumens / 58" beam width / 2650 color temp

Cruising solutions MR 11 6P = 72 lumens / 48" beam width / 3300 color temp

Cruising solutions MR 16 9P[/b]= 108 lumens / 44" beam width / 3300 color temp

Dr. LED MR-11= 35 lumens / 25" beam width / 3850 color temp
Interesting numbers on color temp. Photographic incandescent lamps are supposed to be 3200 kelvin. They rarely are, they usually run about 3100k. Household incandescent bulbs usually run around 2800k, sometimes as low as 2600k. The quartz envelope type bulbs are usually closer to 300k and pretty stable in colortemp. For comparison, daylight is 5500 to 8000k, depending on conditions. So Dr LED, the coldest of the lot at 3800, would seem to be much closer to incandescent than daylight, which is truly a 'colder' light.

Mainsail, if you still have the bulbs on hand could you do some side by side comparisons to an incandescent lamp? Was your camera preset to tungsten light setting? Not necessarily disagreeing with your conclusions, just wanting to see a more complete comparison.

Thanks for doing all this. Nice work.
See less See more
Mainsail, if you still have the bulbs on hand could you do some side by side comparisons to an incandescent lamp? Was your camera preset to tungsten light setting? Not necessarily disagreeing with your conclusions, just wanting to see a more complete comparison.

Thanks for doing all this. Nice work.
I did test two incandescent halogen bulbs. The two halogen bulbs run around 2800-3000k depending on who's rating them and who made them.. The Sensibulb was a touch warmer than the 20W halogen but I would guess a touch colder than a non-halogen "warm white" incandescent bulb. The K ratings are not mine and are from Practical Sailor as I have no way to test for actual kelvin temperature.

The camera was not set to Tungsten but rather to 3000 kelvin. My camera is a D-200 and allows steps of 50K adjustments in the 3k range. I did not include this setting in the write up because I figured no one would have a clue as to what it meant.

I chose to set it at 3k because nearly every single one of the bulbs I tested "claims" a 3000K color temp which, as you can see, is pure BS snake oil

These bulbs were all compared with the same camera settings and at the same exact level of darkness in the room. The only difference in color is due entirely to the bulbs. I have many more bulbs that I did not include because their performance was actually worse than the Dr. LED.

There's LOTS of snake oil in LED technology right now and if you like the warmth of standard warm white incandescent or even Halogen bulbs then the Sensibulb is the only LED I have found that can hit this mark.
See less See more
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top