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I read several threads about replacing port lights but never could get my brain around how it worked on my particular old boat, a 1970 Newport. It's an aluminum frame with what appeared to be tempered glass. Three of the four were leaking so I thought we'd better get at it. I wanted to document this so the next guy could see what I found without going through the trials I did.
This is the outside:
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And this is the inside:
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Well, I commenced on the first and pulled the screws out of the inner ring. When it was pulled off it appeared that it was sealed in with butyl tape or something similar around the outer assembly of the window and the openingin the cabin. I used a small nail bar and a couple of screwdrivers. I'm not sure how they got it through the opening as the window appeared to be larger than the hole. I used my rotozip to enlarge it in places and finally got it out. It took about an hour of huffing and puffing, sweating and prying.
After cleaning it up a bit, I discovered the frame is two parts (upper and lower) with two channels (one for the glass; one for an inner gasket that dresses the window) and held together by a small metal tab inside one channel with a small screw on each side that holds the two sections together. The glass is set inside the second (outer) channel and has a rubber seal.
Here is the Admiral cleaning one up and you can kind of see it's design.
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After the ordeal of the first one, I bought a multi-tool with a cutting blade and used it to run around the seal. It came out in about 45 minutes. Much easier but still not fun. There's got to be a better way. Well, the Admiral wanted a heat gun to get the taped-on boot stripe off. I stopped at Harbor Freight and got one. When I got home, I suggested she us it to warm up the old butyl on the first port light we took out and it worked pretty well. Then I got a brainstorm. I wonder if you could heat up the butyl to get the thing OUT? Sure enough, a little heat, 10 minutes and the third one was out. Let me make it clear-if you're going to do this on an old boat with these aluminum frames, use heat. It's your friend. Kindly ask the Admiral to heat it on the inside while you use a small pry bar, putty knife, etc GENTLY on the outside.
Anyway, here's what the opening looks like after it's out. Some old butyl to clean off with an orbital (or hand) sander and it's ready to go back in. I found the hand sanding just as easy as the orbital and much more controllable. Also you don't have to drag a cord out!
![]()
And cleaned up using some Interlux 202:
![]()
Us a bead of Boat Life Silicone Rubber to bed it back in and it's ready for the inner ring.
![]()
![]()
The final product:
![]()
The inner ring pulls the outer ring snug up against the cabin top with the sealant between and makes a very nice completed product, even on a 44 year old boat.
So, to recap-heat is the only way to go and the simplest. Learn from my hard work. One tip on the install-dry fit them first. A file helps enlarge a bit to make it easier before adding the sealant. It's much nicer-silicone rubber is very messy!
The first install we did in an evening. After learning on it, we installed the second, then using heat, pulled the third and re-installed it, all on the second evening. After it's all said and done, I think it could be done at the slip in a couple of hours pretty easily.
So a job I was dreading turns out to be not that bad if someone else shows you how and posts some pics. I hope it helps you and if I you need further info, drop me a line. Always glad to help another sailor-no use in re-inventing the wheel!
![]()
This is the outside:
And this is the inside:
Well, I commenced on the first and pulled the screws out of the inner ring. When it was pulled off it appeared that it was sealed in with butyl tape or something similar around the outer assembly of the window and the openingin the cabin. I used a small nail bar and a couple of screwdrivers. I'm not sure how they got it through the opening as the window appeared to be larger than the hole. I used my rotozip to enlarge it in places and finally got it out. It took about an hour of huffing and puffing, sweating and prying.
After cleaning it up a bit, I discovered the frame is two parts (upper and lower) with two channels (one for the glass; one for an inner gasket that dresses the window) and held together by a small metal tab inside one channel with a small screw on each side that holds the two sections together. The glass is set inside the second (outer) channel and has a rubber seal.
Here is the Admiral cleaning one up and you can kind of see it's design.
After the ordeal of the first one, I bought a multi-tool with a cutting blade and used it to run around the seal. It came out in about 45 minutes. Much easier but still not fun. There's got to be a better way. Well, the Admiral wanted a heat gun to get the taped-on boot stripe off. I stopped at Harbor Freight and got one. When I got home, I suggested she us it to warm up the old butyl on the first port light we took out and it worked pretty well. Then I got a brainstorm. I wonder if you could heat up the butyl to get the thing OUT? Sure enough, a little heat, 10 minutes and the third one was out. Let me make it clear-if you're going to do this on an old boat with these aluminum frames, use heat. It's your friend. Kindly ask the Admiral to heat it on the inside while you use a small pry bar, putty knife, etc GENTLY on the outside.
Anyway, here's what the opening looks like after it's out. Some old butyl to clean off with an orbital (or hand) sander and it's ready to go back in. I found the hand sanding just as easy as the orbital and much more controllable. Also you don't have to drag a cord out!
And cleaned up using some Interlux 202:
Us a bead of Boat Life Silicone Rubber to bed it back in and it's ready for the inner ring.
The final product:
The inner ring pulls the outer ring snug up against the cabin top with the sealant between and makes a very nice completed product, even on a 44 year old boat.
So, to recap-heat is the only way to go and the simplest. Learn from my hard work. One tip on the install-dry fit them first. A file helps enlarge a bit to make it easier before adding the sealant. It's much nicer-silicone rubber is very messy!
The first install we did in an evening. After learning on it, we installed the second, then using heat, pulled the third and re-installed it, all on the second evening. After it's all said and done, I think it could be done at the slip in a couple of hours pretty easily.
So a job I was dreading turns out to be not that bad if someone else shows you how and posts some pics. I hope it helps you and if I you need further info, drop me a line. Always glad to help another sailor-no use in re-inventing the wheel!
