SailNet Community banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Call John Franta at Colligo - he will talk at length about your options. I'm in the process of rerigging my Contest 31 now with dux and am going to go with Colligo's thimbles with Hayn turnbuckles. Others have used lashings on larger boats such as yours: Andy Schel rerigged his 36' ketch with lashings and there is a guy on youtube named Herb Benavent (The Rigging Doctor) who has I think like a 45' boat with lashings. (Franta says 30' is the max for lashings, not sure why. He doesn't say.) Benavent is a rigger and has a lot of miles on his setup and while I'm sure it works, it looks very bodged together, with open stainless thimbles, etc. Lashings are dirt cheap and bull strong - easy to adjust and are perfect for DIY, and Colligo makes lashing "deadeye" thimbles. I think there is more than one way to skin this cat. But I'm going to use the far superior Colligo thimbles as a buy once/cry once option. They can't fail and there is never a need to upgrade.

Dux is of course sized for stretch, not for strength, you know this. My standing rigging is all 1/4" except for the twin back stays which are like 5mm or something. It's a heavily built boat for a 31', that's the same size they used on a Westsail 32 which weighs over twice as much. My cap shrouds will be 9mm and lowers and backs will be 7mm. For now I'm leaving a stainless forestay on as I've converted to hank on headsails. Others have used a dyneema forestay with hanks and the hanks wear faster than the forestay they say.

As as aside, there are lots of videos on youtube of "sailing fails" - fun to watch in your idle hours. Many videos of boats sailing into bridges and ships, etc., and as far as I can in not a single one of these does the standing rigging fail - the mast always buckles first. I'm concerned about the insanely strong rig forces transferring force down to my 50 year old chainplates which I'm sure would be ripped right out of the deck in some tragedy - so now I'm looking at new external chainplates as a fix. You "fix" one thing, and then you have to "fix" everything downstream.

As for the failure mode on dyneema, the first is friction (avoidable with forethought) and the second is UV exposure. I believe the depth of damage to dyneema from UV is less than a micron - after that it gets a sort of protective sunburn and damage stops. Your rig will be probably 3 x stronger than stainless so this can't be considered an issue. The big problem is (as has been said) what will break when the rigging doesn't, because it will not, if you do your splices correctly. Probably mast fittings or chainplates, neither of which is an easy fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
I'm sure this is a big part of it.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top