[cookwithgas]

I found a used wheel pedestal assembly on Craigslist. I had to remove it from an old Islander MKII 30. I plan to install it on my 1967 C&C 31 Corvette. It is not going to be an easy retrofit. My rudder shaft is only 1-3/16" diameter. The donor boat had a 2" rudder shaft. The wheel that was mounted to the donor boat looks to be too large to fit under my cockpit so I think I will have to trim it. It is an Edson pedestal and wheel.

Attached are some pictures of what I'm up against.

Comments? Suggestions?

 

[cookwithgas]

Denise:

You are thinking all the right things - thanks. After thinking about it a while my plan is to modify the wheel to work like a quadrant. Yes, I do have the two extra pulleys that I took off the donor boat. A new quadrant runs from $500 to $900. This seems silly since the entire assembly was $100 including the wheel! Yes, the rudder came off the donor boat but it is completely different and I'm going to do this retrofit with my boat in the water so I'll stay with my current rudder and tube. I have a mill and lathe at home in my garage so machining a shim should not be a problem - also cutting down the aluminum wheel should not be a problem. The diagram you posted helps me understand what I need to do. The only trick will be to make a "split" bushing because I can't remove my rudder tube for this project.

I will post pictures as I make progress. Thanks again.

 

[cookwithgas]

A few more pictures of the parts I collected. Obviously a lot of clean-up work to do. Thanks for all of the great ideas. I will continue with the project and keep you posted on the progress.

 

[cookwithgas]

So the wheel bore is actually 1.5", not 2"? That would make bushing it down to fit your existing shaft easy, but you still couldn't install it without dropping the rudder.

The actual wheel bore looks to be 1.75". The ID of the donor shaft is 1.5". It splits in half with the removal of bolts. The bushing will have to be a split bushing also - no need to remove the rudder shaft. I'll post pictures as I make progress. First step is to clean up the messy wheel and remove the bolts that hold it together. The wheel is actually "dished" and may fit upside without hitting anything but it will be close. I plan to do a test fit this weekend. The wheel will be installed on the rudder shaft below before I make any decisions on where to install the pedestal. I can still sail with the tiller if a wheel is attached below to the shaft.

 

[cookwithgas]

I made a little progress this weekend. See the pictures attached. It looks like it is going to just fit.

 

[cookwithgas]

Denise you have all the right questions! I considered that and will move everything down if needed. Right now it looks like it will work just fine without hitting the bottom of the cockpit or the big plastic stuffing box top nut. I started work on the shim and so far it looks like it is going to work great.

 

[cookwithgas]

Progress on the pedestal for my tiller to wheel conversion. Notched out and filled pedestal base; sanded cleaned and taped to get ready for paint:

 

[cookwithgas]

UM....you won't have room to stand behind the wheel? I painted mine a couple of years ago. it's all black with mildew again LOL

Denise you are right but I can build a really cool seat that sits up high and I can steer with my feet and be able to see the sails over the bimini - maybe. I'm still working on all that in my head. Also, I plan to paint it black to start with!

 

[cookwithgas]

The pedestal and wheel are mounted. I installed some new cable on the chain and now I'm ready to mount the idler pulleys to direct the cable onto the drive wheel.

At this point I am considering removing the lazarette/seat and extending the floor behind the wheel. There is very little storage there anyway because of the way the back of the boat sweeps up and there is good access to that area from the other two seats. A few pics attached of what I have so far...

 

[cookwithgas]

Seems like your next step is to figure out where to put the throttle/shift levers.. they're not in reach from the wheel in any practical way esp for docking manoeuvers..

If you remove the seat section behind the wheel will you have a level platform to stand on? Standing any length of time at the angle of the counter would be tiresome, I'd think....

Yes it will be completely flat all the way back. I plan to elevate it slightly from the existing floor so I don't have to mess with the Syn-Teak work I have already completed. I agree about the throttle and shift lever - one thing at a time. I am looking at ways to relocate the sheet traveler over the cabin top so I can sit on the poop deck. It's going to be a busy winter....

 

[cookwithgas]

With that narrow cockpit and the wheel where it is you're already stepping up onto the seat and around the wheel... so I'd put the traveller immediately in front of the pedestal, keeping it handy to the helm, build a bridging beam to install it on. You have no seat lockers in the way there and presumably have access for backing plates underneath in that location. Turn the traveller control lines aft so you can reach/adjust them too...

Great idea Faster! I may have an issue with the bimini but I will look into it. Thank you.

 

[cookwithgas]

Here is an update - the wheel is installed and working. I tried it out on new years day and I'm very happy with it. Since the pedestal is installed behind the original tiller shaft, I can install and use the tiller just as before but so far I like all the extra room in the cockpit without a tiller! Take a look.