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Rigging a preventor using the boom vang on a C22

3234 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Faster, Sep 2, 2009

MazeRat7

Discussion Starter · Sep 1, 2009

Is anyone using their boom vang as a preventor when heading downwind? If so where and how are you attaching the end that connects to the vang hound (mast end) ? I'm leaning toward something on the fore most section of the the genoa track since I generally fly a 135 and never use that section of track.

Specifically I'm thinking about two additional cars on the track with spring blocks and setting it up like the single sheet line on the genoa and attaching the mast end of the vang to the middle of the sheet. This way when I've completed a "planned gybe" I sung up the sheet on the boom side and dont have to leave the cockpit to reattach.

Any thoughts, suggestions, or warnings would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
MZr7

PS. I ask because in some very variable winds last weekend we had a radical and sudden wind shift causing a violent unexpected gybe that dang near cleaned the admiral's clock. She was not happy and I want to make sure it never happens again.

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Faster

· #2 · Sep 1, 2009

Your intended anchor points will likely be fine.. I'd suggest, though, that you run a separate preventer, not use your vang. Using the vang is fine for long offshore legs where gybes are infrequent. Lake sailing won't qualify for that.

The problem is when you DO need to gybe you will be vang-less during the maneuver; you have to disconnect your vang/preventer, gybe, then reconnect basically all under load. If you leave a standard vang in place and simply add a preventer strop or tackle, then you can ease it for transfer without losing the effect of the vang while you do so.

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seafrontiersman

· #3 · Sep 1, 2009

I personally use a piece of spare .5" double braid nylon I had laying around the rope locker with two oversized snap-shackles (AKA carabiners?) and attach one end to the shackle which attaches the vang to the boom and attach the other to the deck. It works great and its lots faster and easier than detaching the vang. Hope this helps!

Michael

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MazeRat7

Discussion Starter · #4 · Sep 1, 2009

Good point Faster about the load and being vang-less during gybes. That was a concern I had.

So how do most rig a stand alone preventer? I like the idea of adding two cars to the forward genoa tracks so I can play the preventer sheet just like a genoa sheet. If I am understanding correctly your recommending I attach the mid-point of the preventer sheet directly to some point on the boom vs to the boom via the mast end of the vang as I initially thought.

Pretty minor design change, however I do have an external out-haul and single line reef installed. The bottom & sides of my boom are getting pretty busy but I dont really see a problem adding one more piece of hardware.

I'll see what I can rig up this weekend and report back for more input.

Thanks again,
MZr7

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Faster

· #5 · Sep 1, 2009 (Edited)

If there's room you can attach your preventer (in a similar manner to seafrontier) to the vang attachment point in the boom, or to the vang shackle itself.

If it's a loose footed main then a simple strap around the boom will do the trick.

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MazeRat7

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 2, 2009

I think using the vang attachment point makes the most sense.

Thanks for all the help...

Peace,
MZr7

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Barquito

· #7 · Sep 2, 2009

I think it would take a huge amount of roll on a C22, but, if you were to dip the end of the boom in the water going 6-7 kt downwind would a preventer attached at mid-boom break the boom?

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Faster

· #8 · Sep 2, 2009

Anything that prevented the relieving the load on the boom in such conditions could potentially do damage... that's why job one on any broach is to blow the vang.

Preventers CAN cause problems as well as cure them... I think they are best used on long legs in big seas where gybing is infrequent. I'd question their practicality on inside waters where course changes will be frequent. In that case I think their benefit is outweighed by their inconvenience.

Practice and careful, attentive helming and good boat handling skills are what you need then.

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