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1975 Newport 28
1986 Hunter 31
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602 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you look at the two attached photos, you can see the original mainsheet setup in the drawing, and the way the PO had modified it by adding a boom vang.

Should I revert to the original rigging plan, or leave the boom vang in place. I ask because I figure there must be a reason the Capital people designed it that way -- unless it was just a cost issue.

What do you all think?

Thanks!
 

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Owner, Green Bay Packers
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The lead on the mainsheet down to the cabin top on the modified rig does set up a less than desirable line of strain versus running it under the boom forward to the mast. Given the purchase though, it's probably tolerable. Of more concern might be that the hauling part of that purchase will now be creating a spider's web of line on a reach or run, and a low obstruction to leeward.

One presumes it was done to prevent chafing against the attachment point of the rigid vang. I'd be inclined to build a bail or forked attachment point for the vang on the boom and return the main sheet reeving to original.
 

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sorry i had to laugh at the pic, my boat was exactly where yours is when i bought it. as for the set up, you could also put a cam cleat on the travler and take the sheet straight to the cockpit instead of to the mast first
 

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1975 Newport 28
1986 Hunter 31
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602 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The lead on the mainsheet doesn't go to the cabin top, but to a block on the mast just under the boom vang lead. I've highlighted them in the attached photo. The boom vang isn't just a block, but a block with an attached cam cleat. It's exactly like the ones I've seen for the mainsheet on a J22, though it's rigged so that the cam cleat doesn't engage, and instead the line comes to the cabin top clam cleat.
 

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Senior Member
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Should I revert to the original rigging plan, or leave the boom vang in place. ?
Definitely leave the boom vang in place. A vang was likely originally an extra-cost option from the factory.

The vang is a very important bit of rigging, from sail control and safety points of view. Even a fixed strop to prevent excessive boom lift is better than nothing. The lead of your mainsheet parallel to the vang doesn't provide any "vang' function when the sheet is eased out for off the wind sailing.

btw - your vang would be more efficient if you moved the attachment point on the mast lower closer to the deck. - the line leading "aft" won't represent such a tripping hazard either.

Whatever you decide you need to do to the mainsheet, if anything, don't remove the vang!
 

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Telstar 28
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993 Posts
I'd leave the boom vang in place, as it is a good thing to have, especially when sailing in heavier winds.

Why not upgrade the block on the traveler to a triple with a cam cleat and becket... that would allow you to sheet it right at the traveler....and require only replacing a single block. :D
 

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1975 Newport 28
1986 Hunter 31
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602 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'd leave the boom vang in place, as it is a good thing to have, especially when sailing in heavier winds.

Why not upgrade the block on the traveler to a triple with a cam cleat and becket... that would allow you to sheet it right at the traveler....and require only replacing a single block. :D
I like that idea the most so far. It would make single handing a lot easier too. I could use the cleat I'm now using for the main with the vang, which would increase the simplicity even more.

Thanks for the tips!
 

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Telstar 28
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993 Posts
Glad to help... i prefer simple, elegant solutions when I can get them. :)
 

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Looking at the drawing and the boat in the photo, your images do not seem to depict the same vessel. Different rudder, different keel, different coachroof. Different rig?? :confused:
 

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Telstar 28
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993 Posts
Could be from an earlier or later incarnation of the same boat... a mk II or something like that. :)
Looking at the drawing and the boat in the photo, your images do not seem to depict the same vessel. Different rudder, different keel, different coachroof. Different rig?? :confused:
 

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STARBOARD!!
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If you go with a triple block with cam cleat; you might have too little leverage. The cabin top winch adds about 20:1 of leverage so you would be losing that compared to the 6:1 of a triple block. I don't think a 4:1/8:1 (two speed) system will work in your situation because the boom is setup for 3 blocks/bails to distribute the mid-boom load. You might want to rig it so that one end is on a cam cleat and the fixed end that normally attaches to a becket is led back to your cabin top winch so you can also trim with the existing winch.
 

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Telstar 28
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993 Posts
It will be a six-to-one purchase, and the boat is only 28' LOA. You're assuming that it leads to a cabin top winch, which I don't believe it the case.

If you go with a triple block with cam cleat; you might have too little leverage. The cabin top winch adds about 20:1 of leverage so you would be losing that compared to the 6:1 of a triple block. I don't think a 4:1/8:1 (two speed) system will work in your situation because the boom is setup for 3 blocks/bails to distribute the mid-boom load. You might want to rig it so that one end is on a cam cleat and the fixed end that normally attaches to a becket is led back to your cabin top winch so you can also trim with the existing winch.
 

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Not sure if it is possible. But if you SH like you say, you may find moving the traveler to the cockpit just in front of your wheel to be a better option yet. Then a 4-1 with a 4-1 micro would be right at your finger tips. Granted costlier, along with the traveler now being at your feet in the cockpit taking up some room, but possibly a better solution. Or even a 6-1 with 4-1 micro would be easy to pull on from the back of the boom.

I'd also concur with some of the others, leave the vang in place and rig the main sheet to what is appropriate for your needs.

Marty
 

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1975 Newport 28
1986 Hunter 31
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602 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Could be from an earlier or later incarnation of the same boat... a mk II or something like that. :)
I grabbed the first drawing on line and it is of a Newport 28 II. Here's a scan of the drawing I have from the original documents that came with the girl. You can see that the rig is the same.

The mainsheet does lead to the cabin top winch, which is a nice thing to have. I think I will keep the rig as is, and find a way to improve the relationship between the boom vang and the rest of the rigging. Only costs money, right? :D
 

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STARBOARD!!
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It will be a six-to-one purchase, and the boat is only 28' LOA. You're assuming that it leads to a cabin top winch, which I don't believe it the case.
Yes; but the sheeting is mid-boom and not at a single point which really increases the load on the sheet (first because it is mid-boom; second because the angles of the lines are not vertical when close hauled). If it were a simple triple block at the end of the boom then the sheet load would be much lower. The original setup for the Newports were for a cabin top winch; which multiplies it's leverage in addition to the 5:1 block setup.

My boat (a Newport 41) has the same setup; but the winch is a much larger Lewmar 42 two-speed. When we sheet it while power reaching it really requires the 2'nd speed to grind it in which means the loads on the sheet must be quite high. I've seen 41's with a cam block on the mainsheet; I can't really figure out how they sheet it while it's under any load.

I realize that his boat is a 28'; but the sheet loads will be similar at higher wind speeds (likely too high for hand-sheeting).

jaschrumpf-

Have you visited this website yet? - Newport, Neptune, Gulf sailboats built by Capital Yachts

Lots of discussion on the Yahoo group; subscribe via the link on capitalyachts.
 

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1975 Newport 28
1986 Hunter 31
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602 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes, that site is where I got the first drawing of the Newport sail plan. I'll check out the Yahoo group, too.

Thanks!
 
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