[UnionPacific]

Our boat currently has thru bolted chainplates.

I was wondering If I should switch these out for chainplates that go thru the deck? The plates for the main sidestays are raised slightly, telling me I am putting upward force on the deck itself. I understand this is incorrect.
I have two options.
One is to install turnbuckles below deck, between the plates that attach to the inside of the hull, and the deck plate.
Two is to swap out the deck attachment for thru deck rig plates.
Opinions?

I was about to replace all the bolts when I gave this idea some thought.
Maybe just swap out the two on the main sidestays?

 

[Faster]

I find it difficult to believe that those chainplates are simply bolted into the decks - without any tie rods or bulkhead support. Do you have pictures of the insides of those areas?

 

[UnionPacific]

I find it difficult to believe that those chainplates are simply bolted into the decks - without any tie rods or bulkhead support. Do you have pictures of the insides of those areas?

Sorry, I may not have been clear.
On the bottom of the deck is a plate as well, with a hole, and a stainless strap going down to the inside of the hull, where it is properly attached.

 

[aeventyr60]

Possible wet core in the deck, causing the plates to pull up. Looking at your teak deck, I suspect water intrusion into the core, making the core soft and gooey. Some surgery is going to be required. Probably need to pull up some deck planks and open up the fiberglass to see what is going on down there. Early signs of a looming critical issue. Take care now before you go bounding across the main

 

[RichH]

Possible wet core in the deck, causing the plates to pull up. Looking at your teak deck, I suspect water intrusion into the core, making the core soft and gooey. Some surgery is going to be required. Probably need to pull up some deck planks and open up the fiberglass to see what is going on down there. Early signs of a looming critical issue. Take care now before you go bounding across the main

Agree with aeventryr60 ..... look at all those missing bungs in the vicinity of the chainplates. Such is pretty much a strong sign/symptom that there is a LOT of rot forming in the underdeck/core; that rot will continually supply moisture to the chainplates for enhanced crevice corrosion to the chainplates. A dismantling, chainplate removal and inspection is suggested .... and a thorough rot analysis should be considered.
For rot analysis I like to use a ~1/16" drill bit and drill UP from underneath into the core and spaced 12" apart. Simply examine the 'drillings' - if wet, 'dark', mushy, etc. = obvious rot. The least amount of holes in the top surface the better.
Once you determine the expanse of the rot, you can decide on the best method of remediation - either cutting teak strakes and going down through the 'top'; or, sometimes doing all the work from the bottom side.

All those 'missing' bungs is a BAD sign.

 

[knuterikt]

Nothing inherently wrong with chain plates designed this way.
On most boats with this design there is a molded base in the deck to raise the plate above the rest of the deck.
On your boat the layers of teak, grp and ? is making leaks more likely to happen.
Hopefully there is no core material in this area..
I would have taken it apart for inspection.
Maybe you could get away with
Replacing teak under the plate with a GRP block and re-bedding the chain plate.
If the chainplate needs replacing I would keep the design.

 

[UnionPacific]

Possible wet core in the deck, causing the plates to pull up. Looking at your teak deck, I suspect water intrusion into the core, making the core soft and gooey. Some surgery is going to be required. Probably need to pull up some deck planks and open up the fiberglass to see what is going on down there. Early signs of a looming critical issue. Take care now before you go bounding across the main

Its an old photo, the deck is nearly finished now. The core was inspected, all screws removed, epoxy filled, and reinstalled. No rot anywhere on the deck. I opened it from below in quite a few areas to inspect.

 

[aeventyr60]

How was the core inspected? If all true as you say, then other causes for the bulging may be? Think there is also delamination between the core material, usually end grain sawn 2 x 2 squares of wood, and the fiberglass deck strata on either side of the core material. This is very common on teak decks laid over fiberglass cored decks

 

[UnionPacific]

I checked from above by drilling into the screw holes with a large bit, and smelling and feeling the wood. most was dry, what was wet, was not rotted. Heat was applied to the underside, and suction above to draw out the moisture. Other areas were examined by cutting 2"x2" holes, where the core was very wet, and examining the wood directly. No rot was found anywhere. All areas were pumped with epoxy.

There was a bit for code de-lamination in a few small areas, the solution was to access these areas, and pump full of epoxy mixed with fibre media, thus filling the void as well as re-adhering the core to the fibreglass. I believe this was the result of water penetration and then freezing in the cold winters?
Now the core is in great shape, and the last leaks are coming from the rigging bolts, that will be removed, and filled, and re-drilled.

 

[aeventyr60]

So, you pumped epoxy into areas that had wet wood, but you think you got it dried out before hand?

 

[UnionPacific]

It was as dry as it could be under suction, and heat. I let it sit quite a long time before filling it. I found the source of the last deck leak 2 days ago. Some joker put a 1/2" straight slot screw into the deck, and it was dripping on my side of the bed, that is being dried, and filled in a few days. That's why I am onto the rigging, and the holes for the bolts.

 

[UnionPacific]

Pulled the worst bolts today I could find. They were all flawless. Not a single bit of corrosion.

 

[knuterikt]

Pulled the worst bolts today I could find. They were all flawless. Not a single bit of corrosion.

The possible weak spot is not theses bolts.
Chain plate in the inside picture is connected to the top part - this is where the main load is.
You should also check the attachment to the hull.

 

[UnionPacific]

The bolt are the only part that goes thru the deck.

 

[knuterikt]

The bolt are the only part that goes thru the deck.

The part going down to the hull is welded to the bottom plate?

 

[UnionPacific]

the top plate bolts to the bottom plate, this bolts to the thick strap, that bolts to the side of the hull

 

[GeorgeB]

UPAC, that bolt is showing plenty of rust. Based on that one, I’d be inclined to replace all the through bolts. The under deck strut is showing signs of rust and long-term water intrusion. I would be most worried about the surfaces I can’t see. Again, if it was my boat, I’d pull those struts and take them down to a machine shop and get them polished then do a dye test if something still looks suspect. It looks like a previous owner recognized the leak problem and did a cheap lap joint caulk job. These jobs don’t last long at all. Could you pull up on the PVC cover and take a photo of the turnbuckle and toggle? PVC covers trap a lot of moisture and grime so if your fittings are showing rust/corrosion, I’d be looking a little upstream too.

Liked your video. I was thinking, man, your “little o’l Sailmaker lady" is tough, using her hands only to sew on a sail slug. I need a sewing palm and a pair of pliers. Then I noticed her using the table to press through the needle and a pair of needle nose to pull the needle out. No fair cheating! Now you need to complete the video by showing you doing it while the sail is still bent on the boom!

 

[tempest]

Untion ..Replace the bolts. They are not pristine.

When was the standing rigging last replaced? Is it the photo, an old photo, or do those shrouds look almost black? I'd get a stiff nylon brush and clean all the grime off, get into the grooves.

 

[aeventyr60]

The possible weak spot is not theses bolts.
Chain plate in the inside picture is connected to the top part - this is where the main load is.
You should also check the attachment to the hull.

IS the attachement to the hull a boxlike structure? With the studs coming out, through the plates with nuts on top? Any discoloration of the chainplates on the outside? If you see brown, discolored oozy stuff, the backing material inside may be wet.

I just put the last 5 nuts on my starboard chainplates a few minutes ago. A complete rebuild of the entire structure. 2 gallons of epoxy, 8 quarts of 403 adhesive powder, 2 kilograms of glass. 8mm chainplates. 6 mm backing plates with 3/8 " bolts Glad this job is OVER!

 

[UnionPacific]

The junk on the bolt scraped off, and if I would have wire brushed it, it would have been shiny. I didnt not see one spot where the surface was damaged.

The turns and shrouds are all good. They were filled with bee's wax when new, and not a single one has a crack in it. Either way I will replace the lower shrouds with manual terminations and new wire before we leave, just for safety sake.

I am thinking I should take off that lower plate, and inspect it. I didn't see anything soft inside the holes, they were filled with teak caulk, so it seems.

I could replace the bolts, but they do look very good once cleaned.

The entire rig was inspected in NY 1 year ago, and passed with no issues. The only warning was to replace some of the running rigging, and that is done. We also need a new boomkin, but he said that was very low priority.