Rotten Deck
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you need to cut the deck open and replace the rotten wood. Then replace the deck. Fine details and videos are located in several places on the internet. Not the most onerous procedure, but still no fun.
If it is a cored fiberglass you can cut one side off (top or bottom depending on access) and replace the core. Some do the lower side as it is easier to get a good finish on it, but there is normally better access from the top. The top definitely makes for more work patching, working from below has it's own issues as you are working against gravity. As has been said it is not a pleasant job. If paying someone expect it to be very expensive (as in 10's of thousands depending on size of boat). Some drill holes and inject epoxy into the holes, after some fashion of drying out the core. This is alright if you are only trying to get a few more seasons out of the boat, but is not a proper or permanent fix and if you try to do it right you will have a hard time cleaning up the slurry of water/epoxy mess. This is one of things that it is better to do it right and do it once.
So it is like a big sandwich, and you have to cut a hole in either the upper or lower slice of bread, and replace the meat and cheese inside the sandwich, put the bread back and try to make it look good. Injecting the epoxy is like poking a hole in it and pushing in mayonnaise and calling it fixed. It may taste better, but that meat is still rotten.
So it is like a big sandwich, and you have to cut a hole in either the upper or lower slice of bread, and replace the meat and cheese inside the sandwich, put the bread back and try to make it look good. Injecting the epoxy is like poking a hole in it and pushing in mayonnaise and calling it fixed. It may taste better, but that meat is still rotten.
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An alternative to using wood or Balsa core when/if fixing soft decks: honeycomb at Express Composites, Inc.
Simply pop the deck off the hull, make a mold of it, vacuum bag a new deck into the mold with new core. Presto! Pop out the new deck and mount it on the hull. Shouldn't take more than a few weeks. Go sailing.
Or, alternatively, buy another boat.
Or, alternatively, buy another boat.
Wow, having a bad day? I'm serious, the best and fastest way to redo a very badly damaged deck is to make a mold off of whatever you have. It is actually pretty simple work. Wayyy easier than trying to replace core from above or below. It is the way a professional rebuilder would proceed. The results can be close to perfection. There is no fussy work at all. Cutting away the bulkheads is the worst part. Maybe if there is a liner it gets nasty, but then everything about working around liners is nasty. Good time to remove the liner permanently.
As far as using latex paint when refitting a yacht....I'm stupid?
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Sirtang,
Good Old Boat ran a pair of articles about (and by) a fellow that did this very thing. Lots of work and many hours but the result was nothing less than impressive. Making a mold of the deck? Sounds like much more material and work but I've never done it so I can't comment beyond that. Don Casey published a number of books on sailboat maintenance. I would imagine he dedicated a chapter or two to this issue.
Don
Good Old Boat ran a pair of articles about (and by) a fellow that did this very thing. Lots of work and many hours but the result was nothing less than impressive. Making a mold of the deck? Sounds like much more material and work but I've never done it so I can't comment beyond that. Don Casey published a number of books on sailboat maintenance. I would imagine he dedicated a chapter or two to this issue.
Don
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Aloof I have been looking for help with just such a project. Hull deck joint. How do you keep the hull from flexing so that after the adhesive is applied to the joint it will go back together?
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How about showing us even one example of a pro replacing the deck of a boat by taking a mould off and making an entire new deck.
Oh, and pics please or it didn't happen.
Just ONE example.
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I have recored the decks of two boats. It isn't difficult and doesn't require a high level of skill, just lots of hard & messy work.
A mould takes more material than a deck, by far. The idea of building a mould so you can pull a replacement deck for a damaged boat is one of the most absurd ideas I've ever heard.
Maybe for a small dinghy but a keelboat?
The mould would cost more than the boat could ever be worth.
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If you're looking at buying it, don't. Been there, won't do it again. Even if it's free.
Depending on the size/location, it really isn't that difficult a job, except for the finishing. I used one of those oscillating tools to cut off the top skin, it offers enough control that it is easy to cut through one skin without going through the other. Others have used grinders or saws, but you need to be sure you have the depth set right, or you are in for a different kind of project. Simply cut off the skin, remove the rotten core, sand the remaining skin and epoxy in new core material. Then epoxy on the top skin (much easier if you are working with gravity.
The hard part, especially on decks because of the blasted non-slip pattern, is finishing it to look good. Honestly, it is probably best to repaint the entire deck. Do the non-skid in Kiwi Grip or the like and remaining areas in your choice of marine paint.
I'm guessing Aloof is kidding? On most boats, the deck skin is connected to cabin skin (except for the rotten spots where it has delaminated). Peeling away a skin from areas that are not rotten/delaminated is very difficult. Otherwise, you'd also need to recreate the top half of the cabin skin along with the entire core structure sandwiched in between. I've never seen anyone do anything like that, even with something simple like locker covers.
The hard part, especially on decks because of the blasted non-slip pattern, is finishing it to look good. Honestly, it is probably best to repaint the entire deck. Do the non-skid in Kiwi Grip or the like and remaining areas in your choice of marine paint.
I'm guessing Aloof is kidding? On most boats, the deck skin is connected to cabin skin (except for the rotten spots where it has delaminated). Peeling away a skin from areas that are not rotten/delaminated is very difficult. Otherwise, you'd also need to recreate the top half of the cabin skin along with the entire core structure sandwiched in between. I've never seen anyone do anything like that, even with something simple like locker covers.
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That was what I thought initially but if you read his post, he either means it or he is just about the poorest humourist on Earth. The other choice is that he's trolling.
I think he actually means it.
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Injecting epoxy input the deck of not only a temporary measure, but it rarely works at all. The training course must be absolutely dry or the misuse will dilute the epoxy hardener and out won't cure. Don't ask how I know that.
I had I large soft spot in the middle of my fore deck, and after a couple of unsuccessful repair attempts, I came up with a novel fix: a 24" x 24" deck hatch. Better ventilation, better escape route. And the soft spot is gone.
I had I large soft spot in the middle of my fore deck, and after a couple of unsuccessful repair attempts, I came up with a novel fix: a 24" x 24" deck hatch. Better ventilation, better escape route. And the soft spot is gone.
Sorry folks, not kidding in any way. If the entire deck is damaged, but the hull is valuable, it is not unheard of to mould a new deck. That's the way the boat was made in the first place, except now we are starting with a proper model. Making mother moulds is not difficult. Yes, the material cost is a concern, but you can use the cheapest polyester resin and scrap lumber. It gotta be simpler than ripping up the whole deck and trying to make a nice new outer skin. Seems like it will be a lumpy heavy mess.
I don't have any pictures. But I know of a 50 foot boat that did this. Helps to have a big shop I suppose.
If there is a liner in the hull, it may not be worth it. But then who would want a liner anyway? Get rid of it and simply do nice neat laminating instead.
Re how to fit the deck to the hull - it will be identical to the deck you removed. You might even see the bolt holes in the copy. It will fit the hull with a little pushing. How it is secured depends on how the joint was designed.
I don't have any pictures. But I know of a 50 foot boat that did this. Helps to have a big shop I suppose.
If there is a liner in the hull, it may not be worth it. But then who would want a liner anyway? Get rid of it and simply do nice neat laminating instead.
Re how to fit the deck to the hull - it will be identical to the deck you removed. You might even see the bolt holes in the copy. It will fit the hull with a little pushing. How it is secured depends on how the joint was designed.
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you would need to build a massive cradle to hold the hull while you did it. Seriously, get another boat. You sure the deck is rotted, and not just wet?
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