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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody done this or know how to do it?
My boat has little enough sidedeck room as it is without running lines up and down it.
Thanks.
gh
 

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My roller furling runs outside the stanchions. I have small blocks on the toe rail that lead from the pushpit to the pulpit and then into the furler drum. Works fine. See the photo for the details.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All i see is a big white boat....
that's better than mine.

How about some part numbers of these blocks that take compression force? Or just manufacturer. I can look it up.
thx,
gh
 

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You can use this type of block to run the furling line outside the stanchions. See this post.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the great info and the link to the previous post.
I will definitely be using one of these.

SD, do you know if harken has improved their design?
gh
 

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All i see is a big white boat....
that's better than mine.

How about some part numbers of these blocks that take compression force? Or just manufacturer. I can look it up.
thx,
gh
If you look at the port toerail and follow the blue line, you can see the blocks shackled to the rail. They are pretty small, only about 1" across.
 

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The one pictured is a pretty good design...and fairly new... the Schaefer ones are ankle biters... and not using them will make you much happier and leave you needing fewer bandages... :)

Thanks for the great info and the link to the previous post.
I will definitely be using one of these.

SD, do you know if harken has improved their design?
gh
 

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Ours like Patricks are on the port toerail. The are out of the way and pull in furling line on puts no pressure on the stantions that way.

Dave
 

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Thanks for the great info and the link to the previous post.
I will definitely be using one of these.

SD, do you know if harken has improved their design?
gh
I found the design was just about perfect.

In my other thread SD cautioned about over tightening, and I mentioned that it had not been an issue. But I can see how it could be if you torqued them.

Don't use the long arm of the allen key. Just snug them with the short arm.
 

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Of course, the block that had the separation problem was a stanchion mount turning block, which has a lot more force on it than does this design, since this design lets the line help hold the block in place.
I found the design was just about perfect.

In my other thread SD cautioned about over tightening, and I mentioned that it had not been an issue. But I can see how it could be if you torqued them.

Don't use the long arm of the allen key. Just snug them with the short arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
SD, why do you say the schaefer ones are ankle biters?
Are you talking about the ones that encircle the stancheon?

I also heard that the gerhauer design used to be like the scheafer design with one sheeve. Now it's like the harken with two. Can anyone confirm this?

thx,
gh
 

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No, I'm talking about the ones that look like this:



IMHO, they're ankle biters since if you walk too close to the stanchion base, they'll clip you right at the ankles pretty hard.

SD, why do you say the schaefer ones are ankle biters?
Are you talking about the ones that encircle the stancheon?

I also heard that the gerhauer design used to be like the scheafer design with one sheeve. Now it's like the harken with two. Can anyone confirm this?

thx,
gh
 

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SD, why do you say the schaefer ones are ankle biters?
Are you talking about the ones that encircle the stancheon?
GH,

Did you read the linked thread where I discussed the various options available and explained why I swapped out our old Schaeffer leads, i.e. because they were "ankle biters"?:eek: I think the photo immediately above (from my boat) clearly demonstrates the problem.

I was referring to the old style more so than the newer outboard "Clear Step" version by Schaeffer (i.e. the ones that "encircle the stanchion"). But I still think the Harken OSLBAs have an advantage in that they really do not protrude inboard of the stanchions, minimizing the possibility of clipping ankles.
 

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I also heard that the gerhauer design used to be like the scheafer design with one sheeve. Now it's like the harken with two. Can anyone confirm this?

thx,
gh
I've got the Garhauer stanchion blocks and they do have 2 sheaves. I like them because the stainless blends in with the stanchion. They do leave marks on the stanchion (stainless on stainless) but they've never bitten an ankle.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, now I have another problem with my plan and need some advice.

I was at the boat on sunday and looking at my stancheons to figure out how to run the line. Well, between the two midship stancheons is right where all my shrouds attach. Right to the toe rail area on the edge of the boat.

I still want to run the line outside, but now it seems like I have to put something to bump the line outwards further on these two stancheons to miss going straight through the shrouds.

Thx,
gh
 
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