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· Old as Dirt!
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Add a bow "Storm Hoop" to the boat's stores. Essentially a circular hoop of 1" diameter Stainless slightly larger in diameter that the width of the bow roller assembly with welded tabs that align with the bow roller side plates at the center of the hoop on either side that extend fore and aft of the hoop and held in place with 1/4" fast pins. You might have to drill a couple of 1/4" diameter holes along the center lines of the outer side plates through which the fast pins pass but that will not effect their bending strength. The hoop will hold the bridle lines away from the bow roller assembly and, being smooth, should not chafe the bridle lines (although one would need to add chafing gear to the lines to be on the safe side). Not a tough fix and not very expensive considering the potentials.

FWIW...
 
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· Old as Dirt!
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#1 Drill two holes as far forward in the bow protuberance as you can.

#2 Rig a yoke to port and starboard side of protuberance.

#3 Attach the spare spin halyard to yoke it and snug it tight.

#4 When the bow dives, and is off to one side, the pendants can not override the anchor roller and will slough off the yoke..
The foregoing is similar to the concept of the Storm Hoop described earlier and effectively deals with the possibility of the lee rode becoming hooked over the top of the anchor sprit when the bow is driven down. But, it will not prevent the rode becoming entrapped/chafing on the underside of the sprit when the bow is elevated and driven off to leeward by the winds. A Storm Hoop should do that in most cases. Even better, however, would be your suggestion above coupled with a line from the forward end of the sprit to an eye affixed to the stem at/near the waterline, passed through a heavy rubber tube to act as a roller. With that, which will make a relatively sharp vertical angle, the lee rode could not become entrapped and loading on the "dolphin striker" line would tend to push the bow back to windward.

Thinking (kind of) out loud...
 
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