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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to replace the gasket around the sail drive on my boat. Got everything unbolted, cut the old gasket out of the way. Repair manual says unbolt it and pull the saildrive back 30mm from the engine to clear the spline and pull it out. Unbolted, comes back 1/4" using two pry bars and won't go any further. Kind of springy too, comes out another 1/8" and springs back. I can't find any more about the connection. I suspect the engine spline opening has a rubber donut to absorb misalignment and vibration. I also suspect the spline shaft on the saildrive protrudes out the back of the donut and has a ball of rust on it. I drilled a hole in the engine to saildrive adapter to spray PB Blaster on the spline. I can see bolt heads that look like they might hold the engine spline to the crankshaft. Still can't get it to move and I am afraid I will have to split the cast iron adapter and remove it to get at the bolts. Then I would have to braze it back together, which I can do if I can borrow the oxy acetylene torch.

Anyone know if I am missing something or there is a better way? Big hole in the hull. If I get the drive out I might just glass over the hole and go sailing with the 7-1/2 hp outboard I've got or my trolling motor.
 

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What type of saildrive and engine? In general, the saildrive drive shaft inserts into a splined damper plate that is bolted onto the flywheel. The shaft isn't bolted directly to the crankshaft. It should slide out relatively easily. If you have the saildrive mount unbolted, and the engine mounts loose to slide forward, then it is possible that they are misaligned and friction is holding it.

Your description is a bit confusing. There is no way to move most saildrives back from the engine because they are restricted by the physical hull around them. The normal way is to unbolt the engine mounts and slide the engine forward on the bed to separate the two. The drive shaft needs to come out much more than 30mm to clear everything. Probably more like 150mm. The "cast iron adapter" sounds like the bell housing that the saildrive is bolted to. This normally doesn't need to be removed, because the saildrive bolts are removed instead. However, if it does need to be removed, then it also unbolts from the engine. No need to split it open.

When you do have the drive separated, consider changing the crankshaft rear seal while you are in there just for good measure. It is a pain to have to do it later when you have it all back together.

I'm curious how (and why) you cut out the rubber diaphragm. This is held down by a large clamp that covers most of it, and the diaphragm is easily removed by simply removing the clamp. It isn't in the way of separating the drive, and is usually the last bit removed in the process of replacing it.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Engine is a Volvo MD5 with an S110 Saildrive. The damper plate you mention is what I was expecting. The volvo instructions say only 30mm needed and I have about 40mm without moving the engine. The engine is shimmed up and the sail drive moves freely except for not coming out further. What you call the bell housing is in the way of removing the damper bolts if the sail drive won't come out. So I might have to split it in half to remove it so the bolts can be reached, taking the damper with the sail drive. Or maybe I will cut a hole large enough for a wrench to fit, that would keep its shape so I could just weld a cover on the hole.

Thanks for the info about the damper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So today I cut a hole for a wrench and removed the 3 bolts that hold the spline to the engine.

It still wouldn’t come apart! It really helps if you remove ALL the bolts. One underneath where it couldn’t be seen was only half way out. Got everything apart and reassembled the saildrive with the new donut seal. Repaint the clamp and it can be reinstalled. It was a good day.
 
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