Joined
·
5,053 Posts
- Reaction score
- 1,637
It doesnt matter how the oil 'looks' as when it gets hot it 'boils' out the water leaving the salts behind.
In order Id check the following:
1. Pin hole leak in the exhaust manifold ... causing water to be sucked into a combustion chamber after shutdown.
2. Blown head gasket - ditto above + engine pressure leak down test (leaking into the crankcase, especially) .
3. cracked warped cylinder head
4. cracked block -- fluorescing dye placed into cooling fresh water now 'showing up' / fluorescing in crankcase,
5. cracked turbo oil heat exchanger if you have one.
Pressure (Hold) testing each component in situ or removed and disassembled is the only way to go - IMHO
You can narrow down those choices by adding fluorescing dye to the fresh water side and then examining oil, cooling water under 'black light' to make the oil fluoresce or alternate dye to check for CO in the cooling water, or crankcase oil.
Choose the correct fluorescing dye for the specific area of the engine youre inspecting.
In order Id check the following:
1. Pin hole leak in the exhaust manifold ... causing water to be sucked into a combustion chamber after shutdown.
2. Blown head gasket - ditto above + engine pressure leak down test (leaking into the crankcase, especially) .
3. cracked warped cylinder head
4. cracked block -- fluorescing dye placed into cooling fresh water now 'showing up' / fluorescing in crankcase,
5. cracked turbo oil heat exchanger if you have one.
Pressure (Hold) testing each component in situ or removed and disassembled is the only way to go - IMHO
You can narrow down those choices by adding fluorescing dye to the fresh water side and then examining oil, cooling water under 'black light' to make the oil fluoresce or alternate dye to check for CO in the cooling water, or crankcase oil.
Choose the correct fluorescing dye for the specific area of the engine youre inspecting.