What you describe is in some circles described as a torture board, very effective for fairing the surface.
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Sanding between coats
More of a curiosity question. I am in the middle of painting my boat. Overall I’m happy. I do have some brush strokes to form out but it’s better than it was bought so I’m fine with that.
my question is this. In the past I sanded brush strokes out with 320 grit on an orbital sander. Last weekend I saw a guy doing the exact same job but by hand. I didn’t want to bother him while working but we ran into each other snd were chatting and he uses a big maybe 2 foot bar and sand paper to do the side of his hull between coats. Said it works best for sanding even.
I’m curious what everyone’s opinion is or what you do sanding beteeen costs. Sand by hand or with a tool? I have a lot more coats to go so I’m interested to hear any tips on this part.
my question is this. In the past I sanded brush strokes out with 320 grit on an orbital sander. Last weekend I saw a guy doing the exact same job but by hand. I didn’t want to bother him while working but we ran into each other snd were chatting and he uses a big maybe 2 foot bar and sand paper to do the side of his hull between coats. Said it works best for sanding even.
I’m curious what everyone’s opinion is or what you do sanding beteeen costs. Sand by hand or with a tool? I have a lot more coats to go so I’m interested to hear any tips on this part.
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I do whatever it says on the can. If it says sand, I'll do it by hand.
The guy you saw sanding, may have been longboarding. A long, flexible board keeps the hull fair. Sanding with a small sander can easily lead to localized depressions in the topsides. Doesn't take much to make it look bad.
If you're prepping topsides for painting, and there are minor scratches that need to be removed, sanding with a small pad can lead to localized depressions in the surface that will be very apparent on the finished surface. Unfairness.
If all you're doing is sanding between coats to remove some brush strokes and provide a tooth for the next coat, I don't see any need to longboard.
What are you painting, and what kind of paint are you using?
The guy you saw sanding, may have been longboarding. A long, flexible board keeps the hull fair. Sanding with a small sander can easily lead to localized depressions in the topsides. Doesn't take much to make it look bad.
If you're prepping topsides for painting, and there are minor scratches that need to be removed, sanding with a small pad can lead to localized depressions in the surface that will be very apparent on the finished surface. Unfairness.
If all you're doing is sanding between coats to remove some brush strokes and provide a tooth for the next coat, I don't see any need to longboard.
What are you painting, and what kind of paint are you using?
What Siamese said/ asked.
Note that if you're not racing, you don't need to get carried away.
Note that if you're not racing, you don't need to get carried away.
Hopefully, the OP will tell us what part of his boat he's painting. I got the impression it's not the bottom, but dunno.What Siamese said/ asked.
Note that if you're not racing, you don't need to get carried away.
Sorry. Yea it’s topside.Hopefully, the OP will tell us what part of his boat he's painting. I got the impression it's not the bottom, but dunno.
I used total boat topsides and overall am
Pleased so far. However I didn’t thin properly and I got left with a bit more brush strokes from rolling and tipping than I’d like. Not a huge deal but figured since I have some time this year I’d fix.
Alright...that explains it. Lightly with a palm sander and 320 or hand wet sand....somebody smarter'n me might say which is better, but if it was me, I'd see how hand went, first.
Depending upon the size of the area to be sanded, a longer board with net out a smoother surface "IF" you have the room to use the 3' long board that I believe the OP is discussing. You can find similar or equal boards or foam sanding blocks at marine supply stores, auto body, paint and hardware stores. West Marine has some Dolphin branded 12" x 1" foam blocks. I used these a few years back for redoing the cove and boot stripes. Made for a better finish than the typical 4-6" blocks one finds elsewhere. 3M also has some foam blocks, but I have not seem them as big as the Dolphin brands.
Marty
Marty
Or, long board. I just couldn't seem to get the curves right when patching the hull with fiberglass, resin and fairing. Several YouTube videos into how body shops fix auto collisions and $9.99 at harbor freight, I discovered that the long board works great. Also, the "cheese grater" before the fairing turns into rock is genius.What you describe is in some circles described as a torture board, very effective for fairing the surface.
Sanding between coats is better done with an orbital and wear gloves to keep skin oils off the surface.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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