No pictures. I don't actually own the boat, it's an impending purchase. The boat is on the other side of the state from me so its hard to get info that I forgot to check out last time I was there. The spar is solid and rectangular shaped. I'm no expert, but it will probably be doug fir. The boat is a 31 foot gaff ketch, so you can guess the length; I never measured. The bottom three feet is a little rotten.How big is the mast?
how is it constructed. Solid, stave's, box etc.
What kind of wood.
What is wrong with the bottom 3 feet?
The kind of glue is very important.I'm no expert, but it will probably be doug fir. The boat is a 31 foot gaff ketch, so you can guess the length; I never measured. The bottom three feet is a little rotten.
I second what badsanta said. You may be on your third wooden boat restoration and anything I say is obvious. If not I'll make a couple of comments.If the bottom is rotted, I would e very concerned about the rest of the boat. I love wooden boats, I also know they are a lot of work. If you have the time and skill, go for it.
If you did the modified scarf joint with a key from the link I posted you would have excellent compressive strength and excellent tensile strength.A well fit half lap joint would be strong enough for a mast base. If it were higher up; a finger joint would be better. Half lap joints are used in post construction in buildings for compressive loads.
Well, I've never even touched a fiberglass boat, so I don't suppose I will be set in old ways too much in terms of survey. I haven't made a full checklist for the thing, but I intend to peek and poke at every frame I can reach, tap and poke all the planking, deadwood, stem and keel. I don't know if I will go so far as to pull planks off. Pull fasteners at the points most susceptible to corrosion and rot, look over every inch of rigging including shrouds/stays, blocks, and hardware. I probably should pull the keelbolts, but that is fuzzy territory for me, I'll have to do some research on that. The steering needs inspection...it feels sloppy. I need to figure out what has been done with the seams, ie are they caulked properly or not caulked and meant to be that way? Overall, i want to be as thorough as possible, and although she was built in 47' she seems pretty sound so far. I'm only 18 so I can only have so much knowledge packed into my head at this point, but I'm trying.I second what badsanta said. You may be on your third wooden boat restoration and anything I say is obvious. If not I'll make a couple of comments.
The rules for wooden boat survey are radically different than for glass boats and not everyone knows them anymore ever all surveyors.
Removing a few fasteners is a pretty common request. A plank, fastener and rib can look perfect and be completely gone inside. Removing a fastener or 6 is the minimum that is considered prudent.
Removing a plank is even better.
Pulling a keel bolt is not considered excessive.
So that means just doing a proper survey is not for the cost conscious buyer. Take if from someone who is still traumatized from the experience and is wiser for it.
If maintenance is let slip for even a few months a wooden boat can be seriously damaged. If it is let go for a couple of years it can be fatal.
If it is stored out of the water it can be even worse.
That makes even more sense. Like I said, the boat is on the other side of the state. I'm going to head over there for a full weekend and do a complete and serious survey of the thing...I will keep that in mind. Hopefully you are right about it just needing a Dutchman, that would save me the trouble of finding lumber large enough to replace or trying to do a complicated multi-pieced scarf.If you did the modified scarf joint with a key from the link I posted you would have excellent compressive strength and excellent tensile strength.
I imagine if the owner hasn't launched the thing in two years, he likely isn't going to do so for an 18 year old kid to take 'er out for a spin. And paying for the launching and the mast step myself would be out of the question...limited budget.Someone that has a boat like this for sale almost certainly has a strong desire to have it go to a good home. You could probably negotiate some try before you buy deal.
IOW agree to fix a couple things for the guy for free maybe with his help to get a taste of what you are into.
You will learn more in doing some real work on this boat in a weekend than in hours of surveying time.
That's not what I had in mind. I'm thinking more along the lines of you saying:And paying for the launching and the mast step myself would be out of the question...limited budget.
I've mentioned in other threads...she is going for 2k. The interior needs a lot of work; everything is filthy with dust and there are no cushions. There is no head. As for water systems, I'm not sure whats going on there. I don't really require running water. I find it just as easy to buy three gallon jugs of water and re-use them. Easy enough for drinking water and washing a few dishes here and there on short cruises. A head with attached tank isnt too expensive (although not necessarily ideal.) Standing rigging is galvanised, if i remember correctly. Sails are old but serviceable. I know the engine isnt an atomi4, but i dont remember the name. apparantly it still runs. My woodworking abilities are higher than average and i know basics when it comes to how wood likes to behave and what types of woods work well in what situation. I have a shop oufitted to maintain a 154 foot 84 year old wooden schooner at my disposal.By the way are you willing to tell us how much the boat is going for?
What is the condition of the inside?
What are the planks made of, cedar, pine etc. It makes a big difference
Does it have full ceiling from bilge to gunnel?
I ask because I have an idea about getting the hull to take up.
What kind of standing rig? Iron?
What is your wood working experience?
What tools do you have available to you?
Cool can I come and visit?I have a shop oufitted to maintain a 154 foot 84 year old wooden schooner at my disposal.
That I didn't know, my rot experience was on ribs, floors, planks and deadwood. Makes perfect sense for a hollow spar though.the first thing that I would say is if you see rot in the bottom three feet of the mast, the rot is probably far more extensive than that since spars often rot out from the inside out and the rot can travel for yards from a point of entry.