I forgot to mention this is from my cockpit drain.
Yes they are below the waterline. The boat is on the hard. Some of the valves are tapered and one is a tapered valve. I will post some more photos.well, yes, you should replace them with a proper seacock, with a g10, fiberglass, etc, backing plate, and a flange.
are these below the static waterline? how many thru hulls do you have? is the boat in the water?
Looks good. Great job and thanks for the photos.Lot of good information offered. I would concur to get those replaced. It's a good diy project. I did all of mine according to marinehowto and I used fiberglass backing plates fitted for the groco flanged seacocks I chose to use. And at that point in boat ownership I was a rank novice at diy projects. I just went slow and asked for advice here and there. I did not drill through the hull but instead cuts the heads off of silicon bronze bolts. I felt very confident with them and they were a popular upgrade to prospective buyers when I sold my boat. The original backing plates came off with a tap of the hammer and to the eye the didn't look at flimsy! (edit: Patrick at groco was very helpful in making sure I bought the right pieces for what I needed...tapered, straight, 45degree fittings and so on)
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LIES....that video is a complete lie. removing a hose from a barb with no cussing, no heat no screw driver slipping off the head of the hose clamp and poking a hole in your hand...Looks like a good post to share this scary (to me) but possible working useful device for replacing seacocks while boat is in the water.
Although some folks do thru-bolt the backing plate through the hull, I choose to do it as you say, with threaded g10 backing plates, epoxied to the hull.t has 3 hole for bolts in the flange. I assume those bolts only go through the g10 glass backing plate and not through the hull. Am I correct?