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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to sailing and found an 1984 26' Seafarer thats for sale
I can't find a lot of info on the company, does anyone know about these boats
Are they of solid construction and built to last?
Someone mentioned that the boats built towards the end of the company's existance (mid 80's) were not as good as the earlier ones, Is this true?
Lastly I've heard the boat is "slow as a snail" any truth to this?
I'd appreciate any info (or where to get info) anyone has to offer
Thanks to all in advance
 

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here's a link to another forum thread on the Seafarer 26:

Seafarer 26: Words of Wisdom Sought - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

I am on my 2nd Seafarer, but have only been sailing / working on boats for 4 years. Have done extensive work on mine, so know it well.

Bit of history:

Seafarer Research Center

I am more familiar with the late 70s / early 80 boats / build quality.

Pros:
- solid hand laid hull, by a company that was one of the 1st to work with fiberglass.
- chainplates are through-bolted to thick glass knees, that are part of the hull layup - no wet wood cored knees that most boats face
- sails well - not a rocket, but certainly no snail. Mine is a 30'er and is likely comparable to a C&C 30, maybe a tad slower than a CS30

- often lots of nice solid teak trim, tables, etc
- Lots of interior room and headroom
- often have been repowered, or came with yanmar diesels
- my 30 year old deck gelcoat has crazing, but still decent after all those years
- wheel steering - I like it over a tiller
- encapsulated lead (not steel/iron) keel that is glassed over. no keel bolts to worry about. Neither of mine had any keel / hull cracks, smile, water weeping, etc
- Hull is tabbed (glassed) to deck
- very sturdy mast and rigging
- skeg hung / protected rudder

Cons:

- Some were sold as bare hulls / kits so interior finish / wood quaity can vary, I am told.
- Cheap faux wood panelling used alot in v-berth and head.

- Wife doesn't like head up front near V-berth sleeping, as more odors. Holding tank under v-berth. However, nbot many boats this size have head to aft!

- wheel steering takes up cockpit space

Here are some pics of my refit:
Click view all of Northeasters images to see the rest:

Rudder Gudgeon Fabrication And Repair - had new larger "improved" solid rudder gudgeon made, and installed it on skeg Cruisers & Sailing Photo Gallery
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you both for the info, I will do my research from the forums that were
suggested, and the real world assesment from an actual owner is huge!
I will keep you informed on how it all goes and will let you know if I am able to put the deal together and purchase the boat
Thank you so much again.
 

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Seafarer sailboats

I have a 1971 Seafarer 31 yawl designed by Bill Tripp. It had an old Volvo MD6A diesel. I am in the process of installing a Betamarine 16hp. I would aay the boat is built very solidly. It sails well, very stable. The main complaints I have is the lack of engine accessibility, the ugly faux wood interior, and the lack of an extra halyard for a cruising spinnaker. There are some other Seafarer owners on this forum, and a number of boat reviews on the boat under the Boat Reviews section. Good luck

Dan
 

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I sailed a 1983 Seafarer 26 for several years on LI Sound. It had a tiller, single cylinder Yanmar diesel, hank-on headsails, and a porta-potty. Only reason I sold the boat was because I moved to another state. I thought the boat sailed very nicely. I had a 150, 110, and a storm jib and could easily keep the boat moving. I had a single reef point in the main. I agree it is no racer, but never felt the boat was slow.
My only real complaint was the lack of power on the Yanmar. It did not have sufficient power to drive through headwinds or chop. In calm conditions it was fine and I could usually motor around 4 kts.
I never slept in the V-berth. I always pulled the 2 settees out and slept in the salon.
 

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rudder

My tiller has about 6-8 inches of play before the rudder responds...should I be concerned and if so, what should I do ?

here's a link to another forum thread on the Seafarer 26:

Seafarer 26: Words of Wisdom Sought - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

I am on my 2nd Seafarer, but have only been sailing / working on boats for 4 years. Have done extensive work on mine, so know it well.

Bit of history:

Seafarer Research Center

I am more familiar with the late 70s / early 80 boats / build quality.

Pros:
- solid hand laid hull, by a company that was one of the 1st to work with fiberglass.
- chainplates are through-bolted to thick glass knees, that are part of the hull layup - no wet wood cored knees that most boats face
- sails well - not a rocket, but certainly no snail. Mine is a 30'er and is likely comparable to a C&C 30, maybe a tad slower than a CS30

- often lots of nice solid teak trim, tables, etc
- Lots of interior room and headroom
- often have been repowered, or came with yanmar diesels
- my 30 year old deck gelcoat has crazing, but still decent after all those years
- wheel steering - I like it over a tiller
- encapsulated lead (not steel/iron) keel that is glassed over. no keel bolts to worry about. Neither of mine had any keel / hull cracks, smile, water weeping, etc
- Hull is tabbed (glassed) to deck
- very sturdy mast and rigging
- skeg hung / protected rudder

Cons:

- Some were sold as bare hulls / kits so interior finish / wood quaity can vary, I am told.
- Cheap faux wood panelling used alot in v-berth and head.

- Wife doesn't like head up front near V-berth sleeping, as more odors. Holding tank under v-berth. However, nbot many boats this size have head to aft!

- wheel steering takes up cockpit space

Here are some pics of my refit:
Click view all of Northeasters images to see the rest:

Rudder Gudgeon Fabrication And Repair - had new larger "improved" solid rudder gudgeon made, and installed it on skeg Cruisers & Sailing Photo Gallery
 

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There should be virtually no play in the tiller. Either the tiller's attachment to the rudderpost is loose or maybe more likely the rudder post is turning in the rudder. If you look at the pic below (stolen from the link above:D ), the rudderpost is a stainless rod that goes into the top of the rudder. Inside the rudder this has a stainless framework welded to it. The whole unit is covered with foam and then glassed over. If you go to this link you can get a better idea of construction. NewRudders.com » Rudder Construction The third picture down on the right side gives the best idea. Water gets in rudders, and in the east where boats are hauled out for the winter it freezes and thaws throughout the winter. Crevice corrosion of the stainless eventually occurs and the weldment can break partialy or completely off the shaft. This could be the problem. Investigate whether the tiller/rudder post attachment is good as this would be the easier fix. If it's ok the problem is in the rudder. To fix it you'll have to drop the rudder and open it up, reweld where necessary, and glass it back together. It has to be fixed as if it breaks you won't be able to move the rudder at all - besides you can't sail that way anyway.
 

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