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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New owner of a Hunter 23. The boat has been in mast-up dry storage for two months, and gets sailed weekly for 2-3 hours at a time. It isn't yet rain tight, but even after a thorough pre-sail bailing we're finding water in the bilge(s) after we pull the boat out. On a longer sail we will have a few gallons. I've been telling myself that since the boat has a liner in the fwd cabin that doesn't drain well, and some other confusing cabin compartments that may or not be connected, what I'm finding post-sail is trapped rain water that has found its way out while heeled over, but it's becoming clear that we have a hull leak. There is only one penetration below the water line, and I already replaced the leaking cockpit drain hose. I noticed after the last sail that there are dark streaks coming from the inside of the lower rudder pintle mount. I pulled the mount and the coring is very soft, but the fiberglass still feels plenty sound.

I plan to do a temp repair that will last the rest of the Colorado sailing season before re-coring the rotten areas. I'm thinking of fixing a sheet of plywood on the inside of the stern to lend some rigidity (even though it doesn't feel compromised), then put the mount back on with longer hardware that will go through the plywood. Since this will be a temporary fix I don't want to use 5200, or maybe even 4200... It looks like what was on there before were simply rubber backed washers, but of course those leaked.

I plan to look for a mooring ball to keep the boat on for the remainder of the summer, so have got to ensure this leak is fixed.

  • Is a temp fix inadvisable? It may be weeks before collect materials and find time to do the proper fix and I hate to lose that much of the summer.
  • Can I just use silicone for a repair that will only be there for a couple months?
  • I've used 3m 4200 once before on a different boat, but have never had to remove it. Is this a poor choice for a temp fix?
  • When the permanent repair is finished what sealant is advisable?
Thanks in advance for the advice!

(I'm heading to the boat tomorrow to trailer it home, so will get some pictures then)
 

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Can't speak to the temporary fix, without being there. 4200 is an excellent underwater adhesive and is removable. It's about as close to 5200, as you can get, and retain the ability to remove it.

When you get to replacing the core, be sure to pot the penetrations for the mount. Drill a hole bigger than you need. Route out some core material around the outside of hole. Fill the hole with thickened epoxy. When cured, drill the size hole you need through the epoxy. If water gets in again, it can't get to the core material. Still, I'd bed the below waterline penetrations with 4200 (or 5200, if you don't expect to remove it again). There is a sikaflex equivalent, but the number escapes me.

You may want a permanent form of backing plate, even after the core repair. Consider some G10, epoxied to the interior, or stainless, over wood.
 

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make a backing plate of G 10 or fiberglass sheet and bond it to the inside with 4200. replace with longer bolts if not long enough. the plate can be reused when you do the recording. g10 is ugly and expensive, this is what I use, it is way cheaper and plenty strong for what you are doing. McMaster-Carr
 

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plenty strong for a winch backing plate. it is fiberglass ,the same thing the boat is made from. it is 1/4" thick so just like doubling the thickness of most winch pads. I also use it to build battery mount pads as it is chemical resistant. it comes white and looks good without painting. I bond it in with west epoxy mixed with cotton flox as a structural thickening filler it also come out white and matches the white sheet. so it makes a easy install and very neat looking job with no other finish work required. that is the material justt below the battery with the wood support screwed to it
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the help guys. I haven't potted holes before, but it sounds like a great idea. Not sure if makes a difference, but here are some pictures of what I'm working with. On the interior you can see that the undersized (in my opinion) washers pulled into the fiberglass, compressing the softened core. Leaks are evident. Kind of wish I'd stuck my head down there while on the water to see how fast it was leaking. The size backing plate I will need would make even the g10 affordable ($20 with enough left over to do the top mount), but I'll research the chemical resistant fiberglass panel too.
136182

136183
 

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a piece of 1/4" G10 or fiberglass sheet. grind the surface to remove the top coat and use a tube of west system Six10 or total boat Thixo thickened epoxy. clean out the core between the fiberglass layers with a small allen wrench spun in a hand drill. then use 4200 on gudgeon and fasteners after you drill out the bolt holes. or do the way the boat yard would, use 5200 on the plate and install the gudgeon all in one shot, done.
 
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