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Discussion Starter #1
I've been told by venders to glue sanitary hose with pvc cement, both sides...thread and barb. You'd never be able to do anything but cut it out if you use that, especially on the pumps and Ys. I'm not too sure it'd work on the barbs either.

How about using 3m 5200? At least you could do maintenance if necessary.

Any suggestion or experience is appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Thread tape on the pipe and maybe something a bit less adhesive on the barbs, a good marine sealant will do. You'll probably end up cutting off that hose after a few years anyway, it tends to get brittle with age.
 

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I'm baffled. If you use good barbs and double clamps, it won't leak. If it leaks, you've done something wrong. The hose is misaligned, a barb is mis-sized or damaged, or the clamps are cocked. I've installed hundreds--more I think--of hoses of all sorts, and any leaks were always traceable to damaged barbs.

I think most would consider any hose sealant idea a bad idea. This is NOT like pipe sealant. There is also a significant chance that the sealant will fail before the hose, causing leaks. I've seen that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm baffled. If you use good barbs and double clamps, it won't leak. If it leaks....
Both the tank maker and the hose manufacturer recommend sealant on both sides. Not so it'll hold on, but also to keep gas and smell from leaking out. I think it's a sound idea....but what kind of sealant on the barb? What marine sealant?
 

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BJV
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I'm baffled. If you use good barbs and double clamps, it won't leak. If it leaks, you've done something wrong. The hose is misaligned, a barb is mis-sized or damaged, or the clamps are cocked. I've installed hundreds--more I think--of hoses of all sorts, and any leaks were always traceable to damaged barbs.

I think most would consider any hose sealant idea a bad idea. This is NOT like pipe sealant. There is also a significant chance that the sealant will fail before the hose, causing leaks. I've seen that.
Ditto here. The other problem with using PVC cement is the chemicals will deterioate the hose liner which is the odor barrier. If you use raw sea water the hose will build up percipitate so eventually you have to replace it regardless, why make that chore vertually impossible. Good Sanitary hose properly installed on barbs does not need sealants/glues.
 

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Aspiring to be a Mexican
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I spent my career as a mechanic and nobody ever uses sealant on hose barbs, ever. It causes problems, it doesn't solve them. 220 degree oil at 100 PSI doesn't leak past hose barbs that are properly clamped, why would 50-100 degree sewage at 1-5 PSI? If you glue them they'll likely never come apart once the glue dries if you need them to and you will need to take it apart and pound out the calcium sometime, I can promise you that. Besides that, if you're not fast enough and the glue dries up a little before you assemble the joint it will probably leak and if the glue dries too slowly and you pressurize it it will probably blow apart.
That's a lot of risk for a no gain situation.
I would definitely use pipe dope on the pipe threads in the system and buy the good stuff (made by a company that you've heard of like Dow or Loctite or 3M), not the cheap stuff. I like PST by Loctite, it never fails, even on some really iffy stuff that I've had to assemble it still sealed.
 

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I suppose, when tracking odor, sealing the connections could be intended to rule them out. But, when you are annoyed or embarrassed by odor and are on the hunt, you won't rule anything out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dow or Loctite or 3M), not the cheap stuff. I like PST by Loctite, it never fails, even on some really iffy stuff that I've had to assemble it still sealed.
Sealant 592pst Slow Cure? This is a pre-installation question. I installed a bw tank and I just want to make sure I seal the fittings the best way possible.:D:D
 

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If the mfr recommends a sealant, ask them WHAT KIND they want.

A sealant can be many things, set up firm or stay uncured. Could be teflon pipe dope, could even be silicon seal.

But a proper fit, with a proper clamp(s) over it, should give you a gas-tight seal without anything in the middle.
 
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