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· gts1544
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Folks, We have a 41' Beneteau in the BVI's with multiple users at a month each, with 11 months between individual uses. The following is intended to be a Quick Reference refresher for us all.
While it is tailored to our specific boat, it could be adapted to any boat. I post it for anyone's use and would welcome any input. This list is kept in our ship's paperwork binder, just behind our Arriving / Departing Checklists.
The program would not let me post the entire document, so I have deleted several pages at the end to get the program to accept it. I would be happy to send this and/or our checklists as a MS Word document to anyone who would like a copy as a starting place for their own list. Just PM me with your e-mail. Thanks, gts1544 - George

REGGAETIPSRevision #5 - 5/30/14

ANCHORING--This is such a vast and, potentially, complex subject, that whole chapters, yea, whole books have been written about it.This section will only touch on the basics as they apply to REGGAE in the Virgin Islands.
Site Selection - Select your anchoring site bearing in mind the following:proximity to other boats / swinging room on the anchor rode / water depth throughout the swinging area / winds, tides & currents / bottom condition & holding power.Ensure that you have adequate space to anchor and swing to the wind and currents without endangering REGGAE or any other anchored or moored boats. Try to select a sandy bottom without grass or coral.Remember, he-she who is already there, is privileged!
Procedure - Having already prepared your windlass with your anchor hanging vertically, approach your selected anchoring spot slowly and, usually into the wind, assuming negligible current, observing how the other boats are hanging - pointed for guidance.
The helmsman should command that the anchor be lowered only after the boat's forward motion has stopped.Lower the anchor to the bottom, but do not continue to pile chain on top of it, as fouling may result.As the boat begins to drift backwards, continue to release chain so as not to drag the anchor across the bottom with insufficient scope, resulting in an upward pull.Calculate the required scope (ratio of amount of anchor rode extended / anchor roller height above the bottom) at no less than 3 : 1 to 5 : 1. (Example:15' water depth + 5' anchor roller height = 20' x 3 = minimum 60' of anchor line / at 5 : 1 = 100' - better)When enough rode has been deployed to achieve sufficient scope (Minimum 3 : 1), stop releasing the anchor line and allow the backwards drift of the boat to set the anchor firmly.
A set can be determined by observing prominent points on shore for relative movement.There should be none when the anchor has set.Note these points carefully for a later determination as to whether the anchor is holding, as in the middle of the night in a blow!Allow the anchor time to set itself, but if, after a period of time, you can feel a vibration in the anchor line, the anchor is dragging, usually indicating the need for more scope or a reset.Depending on the room available, you may have to raise the anchor and retry the procedure.Once the anchor has taken hold, you may want to try for a better set by reversing your engine and giving the anchor a tug to ensure a set.
If you are in a crowded anchorage, it may be a good idea to place fenders amidships and aft on both sides, but, better yet, if you feel that such protection is necessary, find another, less crowded location.When able, someone should don a mask and swim out to inspect the anchor set for security.
Warnings - Be alert for a tidal current in narrow areas, which may swing the boat 180 degrees every 6 hours and potentially release the anchor from its set.If that is the case, you may want to use the dinghy to set a second anchor off of the stern.
Also, watch for back winding when anchored near a high shoreline;cliffs or high terrain, where the boats will be pointing away from the prevailing wind.The wind comes over the top of the terrain in the prevailing direction, but then is pulled back into the vacuum that is created below, resulting in the boats pointing into the actual wind, but away from the prevailing wind.This would occur primarily on the western side of a high island, given the trade winds are generally easterly, but could occur anywhere when the wind is coming from a direction other than east.
Anchor far enough offshore to discourage the bugs, flies, mosquitoes and mi mi's (also known as "flying teeth"), that tend to come out at dusk.

BATTERY CHARGE (DIESEL)--Since the battery's rate of acceptance of a charging current is dependent primarily on the battery's beginning voltage and secondarily, on the battery's temperature, the early stages of a charging cycle are the most effective.As the battery becomes charged, its internal voltage rises and resists the charging current; likewise, the chemical reaction associated with the charging process increases the battery's temperature, which increases its internal resistance to the charging current.Additionally, over time the alternator heats up, reducing its output current.
Time, during a battery charge cycle, is not on your side.The long and short of it is that frequent short battery charges (approximately 1 hour @ 1000 RPM) at the end of the power day (evening = lowest voltage), get you the most bang for your diesel fuel buck.Let the wind generator be your topping off charge.Stop your evening charging when your morning loaded voltage (refrigerator ON) shows well over 12 volts and remains there.Should you happen to have access to shore power, by all means put the battery on a shore power charge by simply hooking the boat to shore power.

Remember that we have expensive ($1500 per pair) AGM (absorbed glass mat) maintenance free batteries for the house set and they work best when kept in a high state of charge.Letting them drop below 12 volts will significantly shorten their life.SOC (State of Charge in VDC):12.0 = 25% / 12.3 = 50% / 12.6 = 75% / 12.8 = 100%

BATTERY SWITCHES--There are 3 large "T" handled battery switches on the outboard bulkhead of the wet locker, which is located behind a hatch on the rear bulkhead of the aft head.These switches actually connect and disconnect the starting and house battery banks to and from the boat's systems.When the switches are vertical, they are open - OFF.When they are rotated counterclockwise to the horizontal, they are closed - ON.The top switch is the House bank / the middle switch is the Starting bank / the bottom switch is the Common Ground for both banks.IN THE EVENT OF AN ELECTRICAL FIRE ABOARD, ALL 3 BATTERY SWITCHES SHOULD BE TURNED OFF IMMEDIATELY!REMEMBER THAT YOU WILL HAVE NO POWER FOR YOUR INSTALLED VHF RADIO IN THE EVENT THAT A MAYDAY CALL IS NECESSARY UNLESS THE HOUSE BANK AND THE GROUND SWITCHES ARE TURNED BACK ON FOR THE DURATION OF THE MAYDAY CALL!

BIMINICURTAINS--Roll the bimini curtains to the inside of the bimini so that they do not capture and hold rain water, thus mildewingor rotting.

BOOM--Ensure that the boom is not resting on (and chafing) the bimini by shortening the boom topping lift (the most starboard red marked line coming through the triple line brake - clutch on the starboard coach roof), after loosening the main sheet and boom vang lines to release the boom.These lines should be retightened after the boom is raised to prevent boom movement when underway.Ensure that the traveler is tightly locked in the center of its travel.

CAPTAIN'S BRIEFING--It is imperative that all hands understand that they are probably at least two hours away from serious medical help.This is not a 911 situation where an ambulance will come screeching up to your door with trained personnel within 10 minutes.That said, DO NOT TAKE CHANCES!Remember the seaman's golden rule of "One hand foryourself and one hand for the ship!"Use alcohol in moderation and no hard stuff until the ship is secured onto the anchor or mooring ball.Use plenty of sun block, sunglasses, hats & clothing.You are only 18 degrees north of the Equator and on the reflecting water.The sun will get you in places you never thought of:behind your ears / under your chin/under your arms / in your crotch / the backs of your knees / the bottoms of your feet.Be vigilant!Use good common sense and THINK BEFORE YOU ACT!Above all, have fun and don't take a chance on ruining it.

CELL PHONE (XXX-XXX-XXXX)--Charge the Boat Phone with the 12 VDC power cord by unplugging its USB plug from its 110 VAC plug and plugging it into the USB receptacle on the stereo, ensuring that the stereo unit is powered (VHF - Stereo switch).The stereo need not be ON, just powered. Using a 12VDC source to charge the phone draws significantly less power from the house battery than using the 110 VAC inverter. Whenever you are ashore and an 110VAC outlet is available, it is even more efficient to charge the battery from shore power.
To call the USA (including Puerto Rico & USVI) or Canada, simply dial 1, then the area code and the number.To call locally in the 284 area code, it is not necessary to dial 284, just the number.

CHECKLISTS--Arriving / Departing Checklists have been carefully prepared and inserted into the front of the ship's paperwork binder.Members are strongly encouraged to use the checklists and will be held accountable for any damage incurred for failing to do so, as there is no excuse for same.Remember that your actions, or lack of same, affect all of us.After completing the Departing Checklist, departing parties should leave the ship's binder on the Nav. Station, open to the Arriving Checklist.Use common sense when complying with the checklists as some of the items presume a non-personal handoff.Remember that plans can change at the last minute, so ensure that REGGAE is left safely secured!

CORRUGATED CARDBOARD & COCKROACHES--Since cockroaches frequently lay their eggs within corrugated cardboard (particularly in warm, moist climates), it is strongly recommended that said boxes never be brought aboard REGGAE.Once a colony of cockroaches gets established, it is almost impossible rid the boat of them.

DAMAGE CONTROL PLUGS--Damage Control soft wooden plugs are located in the Safety locker, just to port of the mast support.

DOCKING--The secret to a successful docking experience is preparation.Due to the backing characteristics of this boat (backs to port), the best way to approach a pier is bow first, pier to starboard.Boathooks should have their telescoping joints tightened at the desired length and be hooked - placed on the inside of the coach roof hand holds, ready for immediate use.The 4 fenders should be arranged along the starboard side, smallest where the boat is widest, larger forward and medium aft giving the hull maximum protection.The bow and stern dock lines should have their eyes placed over the cleats from outside of the lifelines, be brought up outside of and over the lifelines and coiled on deck, ready to hand, not throw, to a dockhand ashore.The VHF radio call to the marina should specify that you want to dock "Bow in, Fenders to starboard" to ensure that the marina assigns you an appropriate pier.
The pier should be approached at a 30 to 45 degree angle at the slowest speed consistent with maneuverability, considering the wind and currents, turning the boat parallel to the pier at the appropriate time to bring her alongside. Remember that rudder effectiveness is based on speed, not power. Remember that reverse requires a great deal more power to have the desired effect and will tend to pull the stern to port.Under no circumstances should anyone try to jump, rather than step, ashore, nor attempt to fend offthedock with any part of their body.Immediately get a full turn of dock line around a dock cleat and hold firm pressure, using the friction of the cleat for holding power.Do not attempt to hold the boat by pulling directly on a dock line as the boat will most probably overpower you.

To undock without help, untie the dock line from the dock cleat, leaving ½ turn around the base of the cleat and lead the "bitter end" back aboard the boat to be held by the line handler onboard.Then the line handler aboard the boat, upon command, can simply release the "bitter end" of the line and pull the line back aboard the boat, coiling it for storage.Bear in mind that the boat will back to port at slow speed, regardless of rudder position, thus "peeling" you away from the pier starboard and, hopefully, into a position from which you can shift into forward and depart the marina.Ensure that your wheel is centered (indicator tape on top).
Marinas are busy places with limited visibility so be alert for other boats and obstructions.Remember to remove your fenders when underway and stow them in the aft port lazerette in such a fashion so as to make them easily obtainable for the next evolution.Stow your dock lines from their hangers on the stern pulpit so that they will dry.

DINGHY SECURITY--Since the outboard motors are the prime target, it is recommended that the dinghy be secured on the port side of the boat, so that the long security cable can be threaded through the handle on the front of the motor, with both eye ends brought to the port stern pulpit fitting, where the yellow "man overboard" line is attached.Secure the eye ends of the cable around the stern pulpit stanchion and then lock to that fitting so that the lock and cable eyes stay out of the salt water.

Navigation Lights--Operates the bow and stern navigation lights and the internal compass binnacle light
Steaming Light--Operates the steaming light and the foredeck illumination light on the mast
Mooring Light--Operates the anchor - mooring LED light on top of the mast
Cabin Lights--Arms the cabin light's circuit so that all lights and fans can be operated from their respective switches,
Including the cockpit illumination light (lower forward switch on the engine panel)
Refrigeration--Not currently used for our system.Our refrigeration switch is on the side of the hanging locker in
the aft stateroom.
Water Pump--Arms the pressure water pump to operate when a pressure water source is opened, thus causing a
pressure drop.
Bilge Pumps--Arms the bilge pump circuit so that any bilge pump will operate when commanded to do so by its
float switch or, in the case of the shower bilge, when the switch beside the basin is turned ON.
GPS --Provides power for the Garmin chart plotter when the chart plotter is turned ON at the unit.
Voltmeter --Shows electrical system voltage, either battery, when no charging present, or charging voltage when charging is present.
Speed-Depth--Operates the Raytheon depth / speed / log unit in the cockpit

VHF - Stereo--Operates the voltmeter, the "cigarette lighter" 12 V receptacles and provides power to the VHF
and stereo units, provided they are turned ON at their respective units .
Propane Control--Operates the propane solenoid controlling propane flow into the interior of the boat.The Amber
Light signifies power to the unit only, not that the solenoid is open.

ENGINE OPERATION-- Pre-Start Inspection - Remove the bottom two steps of the companionway ladder to access the engine compartment from the front, by unlocking its latches and setting it aside.For safety, ensure that all hands topside are aware that the ladder has been removed.Ensure that the engine cooling raw water seacock (in front of and below the engine) is open by confirming that the seacock handle is in the vertical position, in line with the hose.Looking right and aft, remove the radiator style cap from the top of the heat exchanger to check the coolant level, which should be full.Should adding coolant be necessary, the coolant is kept in the starboard cockpit lazerette.Reinstall the bottom two steps, using care to ensure that the steps are properly seated at the bottom and its latches are properly closed to prevent the hatch from popping out when someone places their weight on them and injuring themselves.Remove the sloping panel in the aft stateroom to access the engine compartment from the rear.In the lower left corner, as you face it, you will find the oil dipstick.Having a paper towel handy, remove the oil dipstick, wipe it clean and re-insert it completely.Then withdraw it and read the oil level.Oil (Shell Rotella 40 W) is also kept in the starboard cockpit lazerette and may be added through the oil cap on top of the valve cover to your right.Replace the sloping hatch.
Starting- Open the plexiglass door to the engine controls and note the starting engine hour meter reading for the logbook. Set the throttle for start by pushing in the square button at the bottom of the throttle (disengages the transmission)and moving the throttle fore or aft to about the 45 degree position.If the button pops back out when you release it, you have not moved the throttle far enough (past the transmission engagement point).Turn on the electrical switch (top right, facing the panel).You will immediately hear the low oil pressure alarm, which is perfectly normal as there is no oil pressure with the engine not running.Ensure that the fuel cut off "T" handle is full in and press the rubber covered starter button (lower left, facing the panel) until the engine starts or 20 seconds has elapsed, whichever occurs first, as we don't want to overheat the starter and burn it out.Assuming that the engine starts normally, adjust the RPM to 1000 for an initial 5 minute warm up, being careful not to engage the transmission. Ensure that the low oil pressure alarm whistle has stopped (indicating adequate oil pressure) and that exhaust driven cooling water is spurting from the exhaust port in the aft starboard hull side.
Transmission Oil Check-While the engine is idling at 1000 RPM, remove the first horizontal hatch aft of the sloping one in the aft stateroom for access to the transmission.On the top of the transmission, you will find a plug, which has an oil dipstick attached to the underside of it.There is a socket set (in the locker outboard of the port settee) with the correct socket marked with tape.Having a paper towel handy, carefully remove the plug (using care not to drop it into the engine bilge), wipe it clean and reinsert completely, prior to removing it again to check the idling transmission oil level.The oil level will appear overfull if the engine is off.Standard auto transmission fluid (located in the starboard cockpit lazerette) is used if the transmission level is low. DO NOTOVERFILL!
Operation - The engine is now ready to use after returning the throttle to the vertical (neutral) position and ensuring that the transmission disengage button has popped out, indicating that the transmission will now engage in forward or reverse when the appropriate throttle engagement position is reached.The normal operating range of the engine is 1000 to 2000 RPM depending on the speed that you wish to achieve, hull speed being just over 6 knots.Maximum authorized RPM is 2000 unless you are faced with an emergency requiring more at the expense of reliability. Higher RPM's contribute very little to boat speed, but will burn considerably more fuel.Average fuel burn = ½ GPH.

Alarms - Be alert for the high coolant temperature or low oil pressure alarms.They are the same whistle that you heard before the engine was started, but appear in a different manner when underway.They will first sound as a very low, almost inaudible whistle, that you can barely hear, increasing in strength as the condition worsens.There is no oil pressure gauge, hence the alarm, but frequent checking of the coolant temperature gauge is recommended, with the 11 o'clock position being safe.
Shut Down - Allow the engine to idle for cool down for approximately 5 minutes prior to shut down.To shut the engine down, simply pull the fuel cut off "T" handle at the bottom of the engine control panel.Listen for the low oil pressure alarm to come on (normal), then turn off the electrical switch.Note the ending engine hour meter reading for the logbook.

FATIGUE--The boat is in constant motion, even when anchored or moored, and your body musculature is making constant adjustments to maintain its balance - 24/7.It's no wonder that you are "bushed" at the end of the day, or even earlier, after having "done nothing all day!"No, you are not coming down with some dreaded disease that saps your strength;it is just life on the water.

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS--There are2 dry chemical fire extinguishers aboard, one located on the starboard bulkhead next to the V-berth door and the other loose in the shelf behind a settee.Operating Instructions are printed on the body of the extinguisher and familiarization with same should occur before needed.

FIRST AID KITS--First Aid Kits are located in the Safety locker, just to port of the mast support.

FLAG ETIQUETTE--Courtesy dictates the flag of the country you are visiting flies from the starboard flag halyard (under the starboard spreader) and the flag of your country of registration (USA) flies from the back stay or stern staff.We have a US flag on a pole that mounts into the stern rod holder attached to the stern pulpit.When purchasing replacement courtesy flags, remember that the size ratio is 3 : 5 / 12" (30 cm) X 20" (50 cm).

FLARES--Flares, both aerial and hand held, are located in the Safety locker, just to port of the mast support.Never hold a hand held flare directly over your head, but in your outstretched arm and hand at a 45 degree angle,as burning chemical may drip from them!

FUELING--The chrome key (hanging on a hook on the Nav station) should be used to open the diesel fueling port on the port stern deck aft of the cockpit.A shop towel or rag should be readily available, if not formed into a dam around the port to prevent spills.At least an ounce or more of biocide (starboard cockpit lazerette) should be poured into the tank with before each fill to prevent algae formation in the fuel.Be aware that the filler neck of the tank will not accept fuel at a rapid rate without "burping" and creating a mess.A normal fill (considering that the fuel burn is approximately ½ gallon per hour under 2000 RPM) will be in the range of 5 - 10 gallons of a 30 gallon tank.When finished, replace the fuel cap, being careful not to cross thread it.Do not over tighten!

FUEL / OIL RATIO--The Yamaha Operating Manual for our ENDURO 15 outboard recommends a 100 : 1 fuel/ oil ratio for our engine.Since there are 128 ounces to a gallon, that would be 1.28 ounces of oil per gallon of fuel.I would suggest to be on the conservative side that we use 1.5 ounces per gallon, which is 85 : 1.Some feel that the 100 : 1 is a sop to the EPA and is too lean for long life with proper lubrication.Using excess oil simply oil fouls the spark plugs and creates blue smoke, resulting in a poorly running engine and frequent plug changes.

GAS GRILL--The Magma Avalon gas grill, mounted on the stern pulpit, is connected to the most starboard propane tank, which must have its valve opened, fully counterclockwise, in order to have propane available to the grill regulator.The Propane Switch and its associated propane electrical solenoid shut off valve are for the interior stove only and havenothing to do with the gas grill, which is totally external.Using an electronic propane match, light it and place down near a burner, then turn that burner on using its gas control knob.Adjust the flame as desired.

HALYARD SLAP--One of the most annoying sounds aboard a sailboat (and to your neighbors) is the slapping and clinking of your halyards against the mast.Please ensure that yours do not offend by using a bungee to pull them away from the mast by securing them to the stays (strong winds may require a line).

HOUSE BATTERIES--We have an expensive set ($1500) of AGM (absorbed glass mat) maintenance free batteries that are quite vulnerable to damage if taken to or left in a discharged state (below 12 VDC).The big advantage to AGM batteries is the rapidrate at which they will accept a charge, thus minimizing the engine run time.Treat them kindly by keeping them in a high state of charge!SOC (State of Charge in VDC):12.0 = 25% / 12.3 = 50% / 12.6 = 75% / 12.8 = 100%

MECHANIC--Our regular mechanic is

MOORING--When mooring to a tether from a mooring ball, use two dock lines, one per side.Place the eye of the dock line over the forward cleat, through the eye on the mooring tether and back to the same cleat, using care not to foul the lifelines.Do the same with the other side, trying to equalize the length of the lines. Ensure that the lines are long enough to be below and free of the anchor to avoid chafe. This technique prevents a single bridle from "sawing" through the nylon tether eye all night long and transmitting its ensuing vibration into the boat and provides redundancy should a line chafe through.
OIL CHANGES--The oil and oil filter should be changed at the even 100 hour intervals on the engine hour meter (Hobbs).
Preparation - Have available the following:5 Quarts of Shell Rotella straight 40 W Diesel Oil / Perkins Oil Filter #2654403 (Fram PH 2821A) / a couple of empty gallon jugs (for the old oil) / something to put an old oil filter full of oil into / oil filter wrench / oil funnel / paper towels / new absorbent pad for the engine bilge / folded towel to kneelon.
Operation - Remove the companionway steps to access the front of the engine (Remember to alert all members of thecrew topside that the steps are removed) .
On the left side of the engine compartment (facing aft), near the front, you will see a vertical black hose with a cork in the end.Free the hose from its restraint, remove the cork and place the hose into one of the gallon jugs.
Looking aft and low along the left side (facing aft) of the engine, you will find a brass "T" handle, which is the oil extraction pump with an 8"stroke.Pump all of the old oil out of the engine until the pump draws air.
Retrieve the hose from the jug, wipe it down, replace the cork securely in the end and secure it vertically into its cable tie restraint.It is imperative that the hose be securely fastened in the vertical position as that and the cork are all that keeps the engine oil from draining out into the bilge and ruining the engine!
Loosen the oil filter with the oil filter wrench (counterclockwise), taking care not to spill its contents into the engine bilge and place it into the container intended for that purpose
Open the new oil, dip your finger into it and completely lubricate the rubber seal on the top of the new filter
Carefully thread the new oil filter onto its fitting, taking care not to cross thread it.Tighten only dry hand tight - Do not use the filter wrench!
Remove the sloping hatch in the aft stateroom to expose the rear of the engine
Remove the oil fill cap on top of the valve cover and carefully add 4 quarts of Shell Rotella 40W oil.Replace the oil fill cap.
Start the engine at just above idle and operate the engine until the oil filter has filled with new oil as indicated by the low oil pressure alarm silencing. Shut the engine down.
Check the oil level with the dipstick by removing the dipstick, cleaning it with a rag or paper towel, reinserting it completely, withdrawing it again and checking for a full indication - DO NOT OVERFILL!
When satisfied, wipe up any spilled oil and clean the bilge areas, both in front of and behind the engine.Fold and lay new absorbent pads in the engine bilge.TAKE CARE TO ENSURE THAT THE PROP SHAFT AREA IN THE AFT ENGINE BILGE IS COMPLETELY FREE OF ANY OBSTRUCTIONS!
Replace the sloping hatch in the aft stateroom and the companionway stairs, announcing same to the crew.
Paperwork--Make a Maintenance Log entry indicating the date / engine hour meter reading / the oil type and number of quarts added / the oil filter type and number used.
Disposal --At Hodge's Creek Marina, management requests that the old oil be placed beside the dumpster, while everything else can be disposed of by placing into the dumpster.
Thank you very much for helping Navigo control its costs.If you are not comfortable with performing this operation personally, contact XXXXX and arrange for him to do it for you.Under no circumstances should you exceed the oil change interval by more than 10 hours.Should you exceed the interval, the next oil change is not extended.It is still due on the even 100 hour interval on the engine hour meter (Hobbs meter).

REFRIGERATION--Suggest running the refrigerator about 12 hours a day during the heat of the day, say 0800 AM through 0800 PM.Our experience has been that the refrigerator stays plenty cold overnight (particularly with a 10 lb bag of ice in a corner for drinks). With normal wind (10-20 kts) for the wind generator; the house battery bank should be kept above 12 V.Should a diesel charge be necessary, try to plan it in conjunction with a voyage somewhere, as running a diesel with only the alternator load on it is discouraged, but sometimes necessary.Remember that condensation and melted ice water drains into the bilge, causing the bilge pump to cycle occasionally.You are not sinking!Preferred OptionalSchedule - 0600-ON-0900 OFF 1200-ON-1500 OFF 1800-ON-2100 OFF 0600.This schedule reduces current draw by 25% daily and seems to work just fine (particularly with a bag of drink ice inside).The more full that the refrigerator is kept, the more efficiently it operates.I suggest gallon jugs of water if very little food present.

SAIL TRACK LUBRICATION--Ensuring that the boat is pointed directly into the wind, using an aerosol can of silicone spray (found in the bosun's locker behind the starboard settee), spray a small amount into the sail track above each mainsail slide as you raise the mainsail. Repeat this process each time you raise the mainsail until the sail raises and lowers smoothly without any snagging or hesitation at the sail track.

SPARE PARTS--Spares are kept under the aft head basin counter or under the aft stateroom bunk.Spare filters, fuel and oil, are kept in the small drawer near the aft stateroom floor.

STOVE OPERATION--The first step in operating the stove is to ensure that the center propane tank valve is open by turning it fully counterclockwise.Then turn on the propane solenoid electrical shut off valve (located near the tank) by turning on the Propane Switch on the electrical panel (far right) and observe that the Amber Light illuminates (indicates power through the switch, but not valve actually open).Obtain the propane match from its holder next to the stove on the bulkhead, light it and place it next to the desired burner.The knobs correspond to the burner positions on the stovetop, with the far left knob being for the oven.Turn the appropriate burner knob 90 degrees counterclockwise (to the 9 o'clock position) and push in to light the burner.It is necessary to hold the knob in for approximately 10 seconds after ignition to allow the gas shutoff safety thermocouple to heat up and allow the gas to continue to flow.Adjust the flame to the desired intensity.Turn off the burner by shutting the propane solenoid electrical shut off valve, thus ensuring it is working and isolating propane from the interior of the boat, then turn OFF the knob.Remember that propane is heavier than air and will settle into the bilge, mixing with air and creating a dangerous mixture!Keep the boat well ventilated when cooking!

SWIMMING--Due to the presence of tidal currents, sometimes faster than one can swim, the dinghy on a sufficiently long line or a floating line should be streamed off of the stern of the boat whenever someone is in the water to provide them the ability to secure themselves to the boat.

TOILETOPERATION--Since the toilet is one of the major causes of odors aboard a boat, its proper operation is paramount.Ensure that there is some water in the bowl before doing your "business".Afterwards pump the bowl dry with the selector in DRY BOWL (to the right), then select WET BOWL (to the left) and pump 10 to 15 full strokes to completely flush the effluent from the hose system.Return the selector to DRY BOWL when finished to prevent the bowl from overflowing if a check valve fails in the toilet pump.Always close the toilet sea cocks to prevent accidental flooding when leaving the boat for any substantial period of time.
Maintenance - Periodically pour a little Clorox (1/3 cup) into the dry bowl and pump it through the system, followed by a sea water flush after allowing it to sit for a short while.Then, with a dry bowl, pour a little vegetable oil into the bowl, pump it through the system, rotating the pump handle to thoroughly lubricate the piston internally.Leave it there until the next toilet use.Never use a petroleum based oil as it will degrade the rubber seals!

TOOLS--The engineering tools (hard tools) are kept in the storage area behind the port settee, while the bosun's tools (soft tools) are kept in the same area behind the starboard settee.Please clean the tools and return them to their proper place when finished with them.Considering the harsh salt environment, it never hurts to spray a little WD-40 on the metal tools.Report any tools that are unserviceable for replacement.If needed immediately, purchase same there.

TRANSOM SHOWER--With the water pressure pump ON, the transom shower has, on more than one occasion, been the cause of losing an entire full tank of fresh water overboard due to something on deck inadvertently pressing against the trigger or, worse yet, due to the nozzle coming off of the hose and allowing the hose to drop back into the aft lazerette, thus emptying the tank into the bilge.The simple preventative solution for this risk is to leave the transom shower ON / OFF valve in the OFF position when not in actual use.This valve is located on the hose in the aft starboard lazerette at the connection between the shower hose and the boat's water supply hose and is ON when the lever is in line with the hose, OFF when perpendicular to the hose.It is recommended that the shower hose be fully extended during and placed on top of items being stowed into the aft starboard lazerette to prevent the hose's extension from being restricted due to entangling with those items.

WATERING--The black plastic key (hanging on a hook on the Nav station) should be used to open the water fill ports (located amidships port and starboard decks).A ¼ cup of Clorox (eyeball) should be poured into each tank with each fill to maintain sanitary conditions.Both water supply handles (located in the settee locker just forward of the sink) should be turned OFF (positioned vertically) during the watering evolution.The water tanks are 2 @ 40 gallon bladder tanks located beneath the settees, total approximately 80 gallons aboard when full.Be aware that when the port tank is first turned ON, the small foot pump faucet on the sink will issue about a gallon of water due to pressure in the bladder tank.While it is of no consequence, a gallon jug can be used to capture the water.

WATERTANKSELECTORS- The water tank selector valves are located in the settee locker directly forward of the sink.The valves themselves are installed in a horizontal orientation so that when the handles are horizontal, they are in line with the water line and are ON as opposed to vertical - OFF.The starboard tank should be used first as the boat has a slight starboard list due to uneven distribution of weight in the starboard side (batteries / scuba tanks, etc).When the first tank begins to spurt and spit air, change tanks immediately so as not to introduce significant quantities of air into the system.Never use both tanks simultaneously as you will have no reserve!Additionally, the first tank to empty will permit air to be drawn into the system!
WINDLASS OPERATION--The purpose of the windlass is to lower and raise the anchor and its associated chain and rode, NOT to pull the boat up to the anchor's position on the bottom. Maneuver the boat with power to accomplish that task.
To operate the windlass:
Close the windlass circuit breaker (labeled WINDLASS) in the most forward upper area of the V-berth.
Open the anchor locker cover and secure it to the port bow pulpit.
To lower the anchor:
Remove the windlass cover and stow it where the wind will not blow it overboard.
Remove the securing hook from the anchor chain so that it is free, ensure that the chain is not tangled, is free to run and is properly positioned over the gypsy.
Open both covers of the foot switches (UP & DOWN).
Run about 3 feet of chain out so that you can position the anchor hanging vertically from its bow roller, ready to deploy on command.Ensure that the boat has entered calm water and has slowed so that the hanging anchor does notbang against the bow of the boat.
Lower the anchor upon command from the helmsman.
When the anchor is deployed, reattach the securing hook to the chain to relieve strain on the windlass prior to the set or, if you are out to the rode portion (line) of the anchor line, secure the rode to a cleat inside the anchor locker.
Cover the windlass with its cover, close the windlass switch covers and close the anchor locker cover.Then OPEN the windlass circuit breaker in the V-berth.
To raise the anchor:
Close coordination between the helmsman and windlass operator is required so as to not overrun the anchor prior to the windlass retrieving the chain and rode.Remember that the chain disappears into the water right under the bow, out of the helmsman's vision!Be sure to have clearly understood hand signals for forward (arm raised vertically) / back (arm pointing vertically at the deck) / left (left arm pointing left)/ right (right arm pointing right) / faster (arm moving repeatedly upward, palm up)/ slower (arm moving repeatedly downward, palm down).
The slowest possible approach, consistent with boat maneuverability, is desired so that the windlass operator can control the windlass operation.
Ensure that the windlass circuit breaker is closed - ON, the securing hook is removed and the switch covers are open.
Then signal to the helmsman your wishes to bring the boat over the anchor while retrieving anchor line, bearing in mind surrounding boats.Let the helmsman know as soon as you are directly over the anchor and free of its anchoring effect so that he/she can begin to slowly maneuver the boat, until the anchor is secured aboard.
Continue to raise it to its stowed position, secure it with the securing hook, close the switch covers, cover the windlass with its cover, close the anchor locker cover and OPEN the windlass circuit breaker in the V-berth.
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