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Discussion Starter #1
In order to achieve good alignment on my Beta Engine and shaft, the flexible engine mount holes are too close to the original holes in the engine bed to provide a good drill and tap solution. My flexible engine mounts provide no elongated bolt hole slots so there is no adjustment built into them. Has anyone else encountered this problem and is there another solution other than buying new engine mounts that have slotted holes?
 

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A. Fill exsisting holes with epoxy (or appropriate filler) ?
B. Move everything forward or back an inch, would prop still be spaced right ? Maybe a shaft length change ?
C. maybe a spacer to move engine and trans forward a bit?
Just throwing some ideas here, you probably don't need much movement right ?
 

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Can you create slots in your new mounts with a round file?
 

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I'm with Faster on this. Also if it would be to much to file, a machine shop could elongate the holes and also if need be make a thick washer to help beef up the elongated hole .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. My mounts do not have much usable base to elongate the holes. I thought maybe welding a wider base on the existing to make a wider base in order to elongate the holes. Does anyone see a problem with doing this?
 

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When I replaced my engine, I took out the old mounts, drilled the mount holes with a drill the size of a wood dowel I picked up from a hardware store. Epoxied in the dowls, then drilled the holes for the new mounts. I also had a new shaft made to make sure the prop was at the correct distance aft with proper clearance so the cutlass had water lube to it.

Greg

 

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Im with Greg on this...overdrill old hole and epoxy in a dowel...use new mounts as designed...drill and tap where you need them.
 

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Our (molded) engine beds have a steel plate embedded under the glass to accept the mount bolts.. the drill and dowel trick wouldn't work and a 'slightly offset' hole would be tough to deal with.

Now I'm wondering if there's enough 'room' vis a vis the prop/cutlass/rudder etc to shift the shaft & coupling forward or aft enough to avoid the existing holes and use the mounts as is..? Might need to relocate a shaft zinc or two..
 

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On Guenevere we changed the shaft and prop. I no longer had room for a collar zinc or Perry nut. So I installed a shaft brush on the inside of the boat grounded to a zinc on the outside. It's been working GREAT and it's easy to change when needed.

You can see on at;
ProMariner Shaft Brush

An install image;


Greg
 

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How about bolting mounts to a 3/8 plate with longer bolt pattern(elongated holes on forward ends) on the base. Counter bore/weld heads of bolts to plate and re drill beds when aligned.Fill the old holes with epoxy.I usually make a sort of C clamp with a nut welded on so sideways adjustment can be obtained by turning a bolt.Handy on the heavier engines.
 

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we rebuilt the blocks the engine mounts are secured into. as a result of the proper realignment of the engine, my propshaft became neutral and perfectly aligned and no more shaft gland leakage..rodlmao.

so i am no longer trying to make a round hole ovalized.
now for mobility factor......rebuilding engine will be completed at anchor if not before then. we anchor me out mid december.
 
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