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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a leaking Sherwood freshwater engine pump (Universall 5411) that has two seals and a carbon bushing in the shaft housing. Enough air gets in, pump loses its prime after sitting for a while. Any hints or suggestions on removing and replacing all? Thanks, Ron
 

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Is it the Sherwood F-85 model? (I have a Westerbeke W-52 and this is a pretty common model).

I would bite the bullet and replace it entirely ($485), but I would then try to repair the existing one ($180 or something for the stupid seals) and keep it as a bagged and ready to go spare. I would much rather bolt on a complete replacement pump in a bad situation than try to change an impeller or take a guess at the state of the seals.

It's robbery at any rate, but I have a spare Oberdorfer "bolt on" for my other boat's Atomic 4 for the same reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks - this is an "old" Sherwood pump used from 1977-1982 or something like that on Universal/Kubota 5411 diesels that were a bolt-in replacement for the Atomic 4. I think the shaft seals and the bushing are press fit, but don't know what's involved with removing old and installing new. Appreciate any experience/thoughts on this rebuild. Ron
 

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Look in your Yellow Pages for Bearings and find an industrial bearing supplier. Bring the pump into their sales desk and see what they say about replacement seals and bushings. Trying to match parts to applications is normal operating procedure for these places.

I needed seals for the raw water pump on an ancient Volvo diesel. Volvo price was something obscene, plus they had to be special ordered. The bearing supplier had the right seals in stock for about $3 each.

A mechanic at any garage can press out the old bushing and press in the new bushing and seals in a couple minutes. (Old seals are usually pried out with a screwdriver.) You can also use a bench vise and sockets the right diameter to press parts in and out.

Worst they can say is they don't carry the parts, and you'll be exactly where you are now.

Good luck,

Tim
 

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Gramp34 said:
Worst they can say is they don't carry the parts, and you'll be exactly where you are now.

Good luck,

Tim
Excellent advice. It's like fixing an alternator: an auto electrics shop will do it for a fraction of the cost of a "marine" place. I had my Atomic 4 completely rebuilt for $1,200 at an auto engine place. I just gave them the shop manual and they returned the finished block. I reassembled the rest and it runs like a top.

Same deal with simple stuff like pumps. Injectors are a little trickier to self-service.
 

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I just rebuilt my Sherwood M-5 pump. I broke the 'ceramic' (read carbon) sleeve. After cooking a steak I threw it on the BBQ on high while I ate supper, and pressed it in with a soft piece of wood and a plastic hammer. It is a tolerance fitting so it needs to be heated.

Now don't put in the seals until it is cool to touch.
 
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