SailNet Community banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Today, I continued work on Hush and started to knock out what I thought was going to be a breeze. I wanted to take the binnacle guard apart and repaint the guard table. Seemed easy. NOPE! Seems the PO (previous owner) loved the boat but didn't love to do preventative maintenance. I took the compass off with relative ease only to get to the throttle housing where four very menacing screws reside. They did not want to budge. WD 40...impact hammer, heat, nothing. Guess they didn't have anti-seize or lanacote back in the day. Anyway, I have this question? Should I continue to try and break the screws loose so I can take the pedestal table off for refab or should I simply button the whole mess back up and call it a day. If I break something, I will have to spend $1000 plus to get an edson pedestal.

p.s. I have a Merriman (out of business) steering pedestal.

p.p.s. Use anti-seize people, it will save you in the end. Whew!

p.p.p.s If you have any ideas how to break stainless fasteners from aluminum I would love to hear them.
 

·
Mondofromredondo
Joined
·
221 Posts
I'd button her up and find something else that needs fixing. I've started a few projects only to find a couple hours in that the project will be 3 to 4 times bigger than I had originally accounted for. Unless it really needs to have the screws pulled I'd work around them or give up until the day I decide its worthwhile to replace everything and then get crazy !
 

·
Sailboat Reboot
Joined
·
652 Posts
Patience... If you can leave it open. Spend 10 minutes each day to spray it with "Blaster" (better than WD-40) and apply a little heat. If that does not work in a week or two then you can drill out the screws, re-tap the holes, and start over (with anti-seize.) Normally I might agree with leave it alone - but I gather you have no access to the throttle and shift controls nor to the gears for your wheel. You don't want to be in a position to try and break the screws open when you have an engine or steering failure at sea!

Fair winds and following seas :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Those were my thoughts. Failure at sea cannot fix it then. I think I can access the cables enough to swap out if necessary. Not sure. More to investigate in the mean time blaster a day to keep the corrosion away. Will let you know how it progresses. Thanks for the thoughtful input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Hush,

I took the Merriman binnacle apart on my 1988 31. Of the four bolts the first was difficult, second was very difficult, third broke the top off the bolt but was able to cut a slot and remove and the fourth I had to drill out.

After that it was easy to replace steering cables, throttle cable and transmission cable. I had it sand blasted and powder coated. It looks great.

John
 

·
██▓▓▒▒░&
Joined
·
13,645 Posts
Save the WD-40 for dewatering things.

First, order a hand impact driver in the mail. About $20 for a brand name, nothing that might fly apart on you. And safety goggles if you don't own them. And a dead hammer or maul.

Use PBlaster per the directions, repeat 2x-3x.

Now use the impact driver on the screws. First whack can be set to "tighten", but make Real Damned Sure it is set to "Loosen" after the first whack. They will come out.

And anything except an impact driver, will chew up old slotted screw heads when you have to work them that hard. It is a tool you will rarely use, but you'll be very happy to have it when you need it. Keep the goggles with it, flying metal splinters can ruin your day if they do happen.
 

·
Old enough to know better
Joined
·
4,344 Posts
Save the WD-40 for dewatering things.

First, order a hand impact driver in the mail. About $20 for a brand name, nothing that might fly apart on you. And safety goggles if you don't own them. And a dead hammer or maul.

Use PBlaster per the directions, repeat 2x-3x.

Now use the impact driver on the screws. First whack can be set to "tighten", but make Real Damned Sure it is set to "Loosen" after the first whack. They will come out.

And anything except an impact driver, will chew up old slotted screw heads when you have to work them that hard. It is a tool you will rarely use, but you'll be very happy to have it when you need it. Keep the goggles with it, flying metal splinters can ruin your day if they do happen.
This +1
WD40 is not a lubricant or penetrating compound, it is a water displacement chemical. Save it for cleaning duty. Use Kano, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster in that order. You cam use auto transmission fluid as well.

Manual impact drivers are great and no boat or British car should be without one! $15 and it will last a lifetime.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
Today, I continued work on Hush and started to knock out what I thought was going to be a breeze. I wanted to take the binnacle guard apart and repaint the guard table. Seemed easy. NOPE! Seems the PO (previous owner) loved the boat but didn't love to do preventative maintenance. I took the compass off with relative ease only to get to the throttle housing where four very menacing screws reside. They did not want to budge. WD 40...impact hammer, heat, nothing. Guess they didn't have anti-seize or lanacote back in the day. Anyway, I have this question? Should I continue to try and break the screws loose so I can take the pedestal table off for refab or should I simply button the whole mess back up and call it a day. If I break something, I will have to spend $1000 plus to get an edson pedestal.

p.s. I have a Merriman (out of business) steering pedestal.

p.p.s. Use anti-seize people, it will save you in the end. Whew!

p.p.p.s If you have any ideas how to break stainless fasteners from aluminum I would love to hear them.
Have a spare Merriman that I need to sell one of these days as I converted the boat to tiller. I would sell it for less then $1000.

Yacht Specialities/Merriman went out of business in 1989 and I was fortunate to have to one of the last Merriman steering pedestals installed on the boat as it was delivered in Dec 89.

Marc
Crazy Fish - Maintaining, Upgrading and Sailing a Crealock 37
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I have followed the advice of the PB Blaster crowd. I sprayed the fasteners liberally with this stuff and followed the instructions about tapping. Will be gone for a week. When I get back the impact driver will be going to work.

Of note...the heads of the screws seem to torque under load but that torque is dissipated by the length of the screw and not much seems to get to the threaded portion down the shaft.

If this doesn't work, I will be taking a cobalt drill bit to the heads to remove. I am sure I can get the screws out if I can just get some torque to the lower part of the shaft.

The binnacle is staying, the screws are going...:D

p.s. I decided I could not simply button this problem up because of the likely potential of cable failure and not being able to correct. We are leaving in January to start our voyaging. Thanks for all the input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I will keep your offer in mind. Though I would likely go with an Edson if I had to change binnacles, or I would convert to tiller like yourself. Thanks for your help...hope to see you on the water some day.
 

·
██▓▓▒▒░&
Joined
·
13,645 Posts
Hush, it is possible the screws are simply pot metal and the twisting you noticed may require drilling.

I recently had that with some concrete screws. For reasons that elude me, they are particularly brittle and the heads snap off like crazy, during install or removal. But there's always plenty of pot metal to go around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Definitely not pot metal. I have seen the use of pot metals on boats by not pot metal fasteners
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top