[Blue_Moon]

Blue Moon—a 2013 Oceanis 48—has a shower sump in the master cabin which is equipped with both a float switch and a manual button. As in the aft head/shower, the manual button runs the sump for 15 seconds each time you push it.

The first time the master shower sump quit working, it was repaired under warranty. We do not know what was actually done. Now, six months later, it has failed again. Our attempts to tease out the origin of the problem reveal that it has failed in a rather odd way.

If you shut down power to that shower sump circuit by popping the breaker, as soon as power is reapplied, the sump runs for 13-15 seconds—then quits. The only way to get it to run again is to interrupt and reapply power to that circuit. We also did this by interrupting the entire 12V Domestic power circuit and then reestablishing it. Same result.

These tests were all done with water in the shower pan so the presumption is that it was the float switch that was making the pump run. The manual button was never pushed as a part of the testing other than after the pump stopped at which time it had no effect. Interestingly, the pump timing relay is programmed to apply power for 15 seconds in response to a button push. The float switch (when working correctly) will allow the pump to run continuously as long as water is present.

Anybody have any ideas?

 

[aa3jy]

You have a screen filter to catch all the hair prior to the sump pump?

 

[Blue_Moon]

Not that I know of but there is a lot I still don't know .

 

[MarkofSeaLife]

Why would hair stop it like that?

But i did have a long haired girl on board and they do molt....

 

[Capt Len]

Float not sending to pump or failed wiring in that circuit

 

[Minnewaska]

Not a fan of a float switch with a shower sump, they fill with all sort of gunk. I suspect its part of your problem. Not a fan of electronic timing switches either. I would rather have a momentary-on/off that you held manually while you needed pumping.

Pumps themselves, like a Whale Gusher, are designed to push along just about anything that gets through the pipe in the first place.

 

[jzk]

Our 47.7 came with buttons that need to be held pressed for the entire time the pump pumps. That got pretty old, so I just replaced with a toggle switch. To me, it seemed that whoever designed it never took an actual shower in one.

Then one year, at strictly sail Chicago, I was in an Oceanis something or other, and I pushed the shower pump button to see if it was the same, and it kept pumping for 15 seconds after I released it. A sales guy came running up into the boat all pissed off that someone messed with it. I guess I just pumped all this pink stuff out the through hull onto the show floor at the show. He was pretty angry trying to tell me that the pink stuff needed to be there for winterization. I explained that I was interested to see what they did about the garbage design of the push button, and that the pink stuff certainly did not "need" to be there for winterization.

Not a fan of a float switch with a shower sump, they fill with all sort of gunk. I suspect its part of your problem. Not a fan of electronic timing switches either. I would rather have a momentary-on/off that you held manually while you needed pumping.

Pumps themselves, like a Whale Gusher, are designed to push along just about anything that gets through the pipe in the first place.

 

[Minnewaska]

Charter boat over the winter had a momentary pushbutton on the floor that you stepped on. Interesting concept. Much easier. Highly assume the rubber boot will eventually wear and ruin it.

The downside to a toggle is that someone may accidentally turn it on, when the breaker is off. You come back to the boat, flip the breakers and the shower sump start running without you knowing.

 

[Capt Len]

A small module in parallel with the toggle swiched pump. Loudly plays 'Just dancing in the Rain' .Reminds you to turn it off. and saves on water if it's annoying enough.

 

[MI248]

Blue Moon,

Sounds like its time to break out the multimeter and start a standard diagnosis.
1. Run a separate lead to the gulper to make sure its not defective
2. Check your switchs with your multimeter.
3. Check for power at intervals along source wire from brake. (each wire is coded with a number, check you owners manual for the electrical diagram)

I had a similar problem and found one of the connections under the sink was corroded and causing an intermittent failure. The connector was behind all of the other wiring bundles and I, just by chance, found it.

Hope this helps.