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Bombay Explorer 44
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My rather nice screw together metal plumbing under my sinks literally crumbled in my hands when I went to unscrew them this afternoon. They came with the boat and I guess were some sort of home DIY product.

Anyway I need some 90 degree bends T pieces and sink connections. All inch and a half and my likely source is Ace Hardware.

Is it OK to use regular home style plastic components and glue the lot together? Other than the three sink connections. The riser from the seacock is flexible hose and terminates well above the waterline.

Is there anything to watch out for.
 

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Regular, home-type drain set should work just fine above the W/L. Screw together PVC's fine. Wouldn't go so far as sched 40 glue up; too stiff IMHO
Managing to match up PVC waste to thru-hull hose might be a. bit touch'n'go, tho ;)
 

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Bombay Explorer 44
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3,619 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Regular, home-type drain set should work just fine above the W/L. Screw together PVC's fine. Wouldn't go so far as sched 40 glue up; too stiff IMHO
Managing to match up PVC waste to thru-hull hose might be a. bit touch'n'go, tho ;)
Thanks for the reassurance.

I will resort to the old boil it in the kettle trick to persuade the hose to fit.
 

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Heavy walled PVC is OK ... but be sure to add a 'flex coupling' somewhere high in the 'run' to allow 'movement' (from hull flex) and to dampen vibration. Just a rubber slip-on hose and double clamped will do. This is to prevent 'fatigue' of the PVC.
Best is to avoid/minimize elbows and such .... in case you have to clean out 'barnacles', grease balls, etc.
 

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What is above the water line when in an upright position may not be above the water line when healed over. Both my sinks has a check ball valve just under the sink to keep water from coming in when healed over, and very much need on my boat.

Be careful of using white metal flange nut on the connection to the sink strainer flange, white metal will corrode in a very short time.
 

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Bombay Explorer 44
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3,619 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Why not do hose all the way to the sink simple and no joints to fail and leak sink goo and you can remove it and hose it out when clogged with grease
Yeah but I have three sinks feeding into a single through hull.

Anyway I have found some glued fittings which I think should should do the job. The stock of compression fittings was very limited.

Up early tomorrow when it is cool and see if I can get it sorted. I think I may need to do some sort of critical path analysis to work out the order I glue things together. I gather my working time is measured in seconds.
 

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Bombay Explorer 44
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3,619 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What is above the water line when in an upright position may not be above the water line when healed over. Both my sinks has a check ball valve just under the sink to keep water from coming in when healed over, and very much need on my boat.

Be careful of using white metal flange nut on the connection to the sink strainer flange, white metal will corrode in a very short time.
All three sinks are close to the center line and are well above water level even when well heeled.

As for the white metal nuts I can confirm that they crumbled very easily when a small amount of pressure was applied as did some of the shiny metal T fittings and pipe work. I guess electrolysis is the culprit.

I will post some pics when I finish the job.
 

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An elastic connection to thruhull which rises above sea level might bend and become under water with the help of weight of the water inside the hose. Make sure the connection of the hose to the plastics is secure enough.
 
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