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Discussion Starter #1
went out for a short windless cruise. Water was flat, no wind, on my way back at full throttle I suddenly notice smoke pouring out my dorade vents. the whole cabin was filled up with white(I think)smoke. Temp light came on and oil light came on but went off after I throttled back. After reducing the rpm's the smoke went away and I was able to motor into my slip no problem. I am just worried about what it was? I did just hose down the boat real good last night and probably sprayed water in the tank vent(did not know what it was till now). I am hoping to go back out later today. What steps should I take to see what the problem was/is?
 

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sounds more like steam, especially if the temp light came on and went away when you throttled back. But then there is the oil light coming on.

I have been sailing well over 40 years, but I still look at the cooling water stream every 12-15 minutes, and I would suggest that be the first thing to check. Volume may fluctuate or pulse at idle and slow speed, but should be a pretty steady flow at speed. And not be overly steamy.

Don't know your boat model or engine make, but this is where an IR thermometer would come in handy, to check temps along the water path. I suspect a restricted elbow, heat exchanger, or impeller/pump issue.

I doubt that it is water in the fuel
 

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Probably just steam from an over heating engine. Can happen to the best at any time. Did you check the engine. A ruputured hose, failed water pump. a loose fan belt. blown head gasket.If it turns to a darker smelly kind of smoke,reduce rpm some more and don your full respirator mask .It may go away.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
beta 20 tartan 30. I did check the engine and the oil was a tad low, but I will check again after everything is settled. Temp light stayed on, the oil light went on but back off after throttling down. The dipstick was sure hot. I'm adding oil and going back out with guests later today. Hope it is a uneventful ride. Thanks for any additional input.
 

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Wait, you are going out today with guest and you haven't identified what caused all the smoke, temperature and oil lights to come on?? Something is wrong, about to fail or has failed. Maybe an object was sucked into the cooling lines and caused a temporary blockage. If it was me I wouldn't take the boat out till I went over the systems top to bottom and left to right to ensure all was right. When was the last time you changed the water pump impeller? Or flushed the heat exchanger if so equipped or changed the coolant?

Faulty thermostat?
 
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One of None
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I keep reading posts of diesel engines being pushed to "max" rpm I'm no expert, but they are NOT high RPM engines, right? So why are so many people (it seems) racing these things back to port only to have what sounds like high rpm problems?
 

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Denise 030, it's a male thing, have to see what she'll do thing, ha, ha. Nothing like a 4knot hull speed, being 'passed' by a 10knot hull speed, just can't let it go. LOL.
 

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I don't know about running at "max rpm", I don't know why people would want to. I wouldn't unless I'm in deep trouble.

Having said that I would note that a diesel engine while cruising should be run at ~75% of its max continuous rpm rating. That's what they are designed to do. Running it at low rpm will allow the cylinders to glaze and cause problems down the road.

When I took the yanmar owners class by Mack Boring, the instructor recommended taking the boat out at least once a year for 4 or 5 hours and "running it like a power boat." Every mechanic I've spoken to has agreed with that.

Too many of us (sailors) fire the engine up for 10-15 minuets and than shut it down for several hours before doing the same thing again when we return.

Brian
 

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Friends had this problem going down the Oregon coast at night. What made it trickier was the entire lighting system was from one source, A battery operated light by the companion way would have made a huge difference , instead of them both looking down a dark hatch into a cloud of smoke, with no light available.
 

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Maybe over pitched prop causing the engine to over heat? Check your manual or call Beta and ask them.

I had a Autostream feathering prop and recently adjusted the pitch a little too much and will have to reduce a bit next time I pull as my engine alarm went off after a full throttle run and not able to reach WOT.

FWIW...diesel engines, especially the Beta/Kubota are designed to be run hard and all day...treating like a gas engine I am told is not adviseable. Sure you can over do it but if you think about a tractor or some other diesel driven piece of equipment they run those things all day everyday hard...and last year's properly maintained ;-)

My thoughts anyway.
 

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I have a Universal M18 and manual says is has a governor. Should be able to run at full throttle since the governor prevents it from running at too high rpms. I don't have a tack so have no idea what rpms its running at.:confused:
 

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I don't know about running at "max rpm", I don't know why people would want to. I wouldn't unless I'm in deep trouble.

Having said that I would note that a diesel engine while cruising should be run at ~75% of its max continuous rpm rating. That's what they are designed to do. Running it at low rpm will allow the cylinders to glaze and cause problems down the road.

When I took the yanmar owners class by Mack Boring, the instructor recommended taking the boat out at least once a year for 4 or 5 hours and "running it like a power boat." Every mechanic I've spoken to has agreed with that.

Too many of us (sailors) fire the engine up for 10-15 minuets and than shut it down for several hours before doing the same thing again when we return.

Brian
Who said run on idle?
 

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No one. Much like no one in this thread said max rpm except you. What is your point?
Hm, OP says:
on my way back at full throttle I suddenly notice smoke pouring out my dorade vents
Usually one would relate full throttle with max rpm, so this is then a major issue in this thread.

As has been pointed out it is well-known that (most) diesels should not run for a long time on full throttle / max rpm.
Of course one should not get any "white smoke" (dear OP, how did it smell?), and any of the other issues that happened. That is probably due to installation and (lack of proper) maintenance.

Engine overheated at full throttle, simple as that. Suggest the OP/owner goes over the engine, checking cooling system and other parts. Doesn't hurt to read a book on diesel engines to understand how these works and should be used.

/J
 

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If you keep treating that engine like that, you'll be needing a new one. If the engine overheated enough to thin the oil enough to turn on the low pressure warning light, you might have already done permanent damage. I certainly wouldn't risk doing it again.
 

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Some engines have a max rpm and a continuous max rpm. Be sure to read your owners/operators manual.

Most diesels perform best in the 60% to 80% of max rpm range. If powered properly, that typically gets you to hull speed too, so running hotter doesn't do much more than burn fuel anyway.

Everyone should run at wide open throttle underway for no more than 30 seconds, once per year, just to see that you actually make max rpm. Any deviation suggests you have a problem, usually the prop.
 

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No one. Much like no one in this thread said max rpm except you. What is your point?
Uh.. the OP said it

Point is, no point. and you are trying too hard to put me in my place where ever you think that is.
 
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