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Hello Soverel lovers! My wife and I purchased the S/V "Come Monday" two years ago. Out first boat! Neither of us are experienced sailors or very knowlegable about the rigging. She is in need of new control lines. Pretty much all of them. What I'm looking for is info on the size and lengths if the various lines. Anyone out there ever go though a refit? Do you have a list, or, manifest for the dimensions of the control lines?

TIA

Neil
 

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Buy a spool of light but strong cord/twine/string.. tie/sew one end to an existing halyard, then carefully pull it through and out of the mast. Cut the string (which now replaces the original halyard) with some extra length.

Repeat as required until all lines are out.

Take them to a nearby chandler and match size and length - but discuss your needs with someone there who knows rope. You can probably choose better line that what's there now, esp if you're not 'cheaping out'.

Then return to the boat, securely attach the new halyards etc to the light lines you put in place before - uses them to carefully feed the new halyards back into place. This time, with more 'drag' it's a good idea to sew the parts together - the last thing you want is for them to part at the first sign of resistance half way through.

... and you're done!

Keep in mind any shortcomings of your existing running rigging - deal with any that are too short or too long, but don't be afraid to leave 10 feet or so extra in any case; it allows you to remake an end if you're putting shackles etc on. I'd recommend tying halyards on (saves cost of shackles, weight aloft, splicing, and a dangerous swinging lump of metal if you lose grip on a halyard one day). It also makes it easy to end-for-end a halyard down the road if localized chafe or wear is an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Ron, for the quick reply.

It may come to that in the end. I plan to buy my rope from an online source as its my cheaper that what I can get locally. That will allow me to buy better quality. I just don't know why I can't seem to find the rigging info on any web searches, but..... I hate doing things twice if I can avoid it. :)

Neil
 

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Sailboatdata.com is confusing on this one.. J/I/P/E numbers indicate a Fractional rig, the drawing shows masthead., but from another source:

BOAT

Soverel 30-3 I=40.5 J=14 P=43 E=15

Meaning your mast is about 46/7 feet above deck.. Your forestay is supposedly 43 feet long approx. So add those dimensions, plus the distance to cabin top mounted clutches/winches, if applicable, plus an allowance and you should have a rough length, try to err on the extra side if ordering on line. If it's a frac your jib and spinn halyards will be somewhat shorter than the main..

Anyhow not so hard to come up with some rough numbers, run a tape measure up to topping lift points etc for those, or even to check the heights of halyard blocks themselves.
 
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Thank Ron!

I was looking at some of those numbers earlier trying to suss out where to get the lengths. The charts I've found are very low res and hard to read. I think once done, I'll post for others in the future! ;)

Neil
 

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Buy a spool of light but strong cord/twine/string.. tie/sew one end to an existing halyard, then carefully pull it through and out of the mast. Cut the string (which now replaces the original halyard) with some extra length.

Repeat as required until all lines are out.

Take them to a nearby chandler and match size and length - but discuss your needs with someone there who knows rope. You can probably choose better line that what's there now, esp if you're not 'cheaping out'.

Then return to the boat, securely attach the new halyards etc to the light lines you put in place before - uses them to carefully feed the new halyards back into place. This time, with more 'drag' it's a good idea to sew the parts together - the last thing you want is for them to part at the first sign of resistance half way through.

... and you're done!

Keep in mind any shortcomings of your existing running rigging - deal with any that are too short or too long, but don't be afraid to leave 10 feet or so extra in any case; it allows you to remake an end if you're putting shackles etc on. I'd recommend tying halyards on (saves cost of shackles, weight aloft, splicing, and a dangerous swinging lump of metal if you lose grip on a halyard one day). It also makes it easy to end-for-end a halyard down the road if localized chafe or wear is an issue.
Don't forget to mark the old lines and the messenger line so you remember where it goes.

It's less risk of error if you measure the existing lines and adjust the lengths as needed.
 
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