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Oh wow! Your new setup looks much scarier to me! Put some thick rubber pads on that thing or your hull will probably be even worse damaged
 

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" i still have to add some padded wooden ears to the part that comes in contact
with the hull . "

there is another guy who is using a similar system on his mcgreagor with
no problem
 

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Not sure I would even trust the wood.

Though I am the one with the trailer that does not even allow the boat to touch the front rollers :S

Let us know how it works
 

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Oh wow! Your new setup looks much scarier to me! Put some thick rubber pads on that thing or your hull will probably be even worse damaged
I have to agree with Blo. A Macgregor is a different hull design. I thought I'd be smart & have a 2 roller design like your original setup (but with better clearance) More support is better right?? NOT ! If you notice when your boat is being winched up (or not if your winch never worked!) The hull actually climbs into the roller,and the roller rolls. The angle of the boat & trailer ARE NOT THE SAME when your loading & launching. Having a hard point to contact, wood, plastic, rubber whatever will mark your hull or worse damage it if there's waves. Anyway I could never get the boat into both rollers when I loaded it up, sure it was after I winched it but once it settled onto the trailer & out of the water it was as much as 2" away! This was NOT good for towing as it put less weight on the tongue. So I went to the 1 roller setup & crank the boat attach point right up to the roller, works much better now. Tip... make sure your boat is floating & not have the keel dragging on the support board.
 

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how did you get the pumps in and mounted? I can just maybe reach the rear portion of the well.
That is the purpose of the pump mounting bracket. First I measured the triangle pocket in the hull, then I made the triangle mounting bracket & arranged all the pumps & floats on it. Then I fitted the aft tab (as seen in the picture) I bolted a piece of small plywood to this bracket with a stainless bolt & furniture upholstery nut. I then slid this whole unit in place with epoxy covering the bottom of the bolted in place plywood piece. I let the epoxy cure then removed the bolt & pump tray. Put the bolt back in place, (So I wouldn't cover the bolt threads in epoxy) and then epoxied the small plywood piece in permanently. The whole bracket assembly is held in place with 2 rubber feet in the front and 1 bolt in the back. This tray allows all hoses & wiring to be installed PRIOR to inserting the tray in position. It sounds more complicated than it was. It didn't take too long at all AND I get no more than 4 cups of water in the bilge before the float turns the primary pump on . This prevents any kind of mold buildup or wet storage areas. The secondary pump is 1 inch higher than the primary one & it has only been on when I test the system every few months. Works great!
 

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I epoxied the cap of the bilge pump to the hull of mine. Now I can pop the pump on and off anytime I want. I do like Windyway's idea of the tray much better as it allows for backups. I eventually want to have two electronic pumps and a manual pump on a board for mine.
 

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Here is the mod I've done to the swing keel. Added a bit of weight and some SS to the leading edge & bottom. I didn't take a finished picture, but you get the idea. All the empty space between the SS & keel bottom was filled with a lead shot epoxy slurry, then all glassed over. It sounds like a bomb going off when it grounds but I haven't even noticed any paint scrapes on it in 2 seasons of sailing.
 

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