SailNet Community banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
If I have 100' of achor rode, 3 strand nylon, and I need 200', can I splice or eye and shackle two lengths together safely and reliably?
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I believe that a good long splice should be ok Mike. There is a formula I believe that will tell you what splice length is appropriate for a given size & breaking strain of 3 strand. However, there is nothing more reassuring than the thought of no joins anywhere. Having said that, rode is very often spliced to the anchor chain as shackles wont go around the windlass unless you hand feed until the chain can be draped over the dogs.
 

·
Telstar 28
Joined
·
1,000 Posts
While a good splice will give you much of the strength of an unspliced line, say 80-90%, it would be a weak point. IMHO, you're much better off having the rode the length you need...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
for emergency use only

I mean to have at least one anchor on hand as and emergency stop in case I lose wind and motor and tide/current wants to take me where I don't want to go. By the time I want to anchor out for the night I can have new, full-length rode. I'm just trying to spread out my costs as I've just spent most of my savings on our new old boat and we're fitting her out.
 

·
Telstar 28
Joined
·
1,000 Posts
Skimping on ground tackle, especially emergency ground tackle strikes me as somewhat penny-wise and pound foolish in the extreme. If there is any line on a boat that I'd want to know was in excellent shape and of unquestioned quality, it'd be my emergency anchor line.

By definition, if you're using the emergency anchor, you're probably going to be putting some considerable strain on it. Whether it is because you need to stop the boat to deal with a fouled prop, a genoa that won't furl or sudden storm that has popped up, you don't want to have to worry about how long the line will last and whether it is up to the strain.

You can get 30' of 5/16" G4 high-test chain and 220' of 5/8" nylon octo-plait pre-spliced rode for $310. Add a load-rated anchor shackle to it for another $10 or so... and your choice of anchor. :)

BTW, I am a big believer in the next gen anchors, and think they are a considerable improvement over the older designs, like the CQR, Bruce and Danforth. Get a Manson Supreme or Rocna as they are worth the extra money IMHO.

I mean to have at least one anchor on hand as and emergency stop in case I lose wind and motor and tide/current wants to take me where I don't want to go. By the time I want to anchor out for the night I can have new, full-length rode. I'm just trying to spread out my costs as I've just spent most of my savings on our new old boat and we're fitting her out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Skimping on ground tackle, especially emergency ground tackle strikes me as somewhat penny-wise and pound foolish in the extreme. If there is any line on a boat that I'd want to know was in excellent shape and of unquestioned quality, it'd be my emergency anchor line.

By definition, if you're using the emergency anchor, you're probably going to be putting some considerable strain on it. Whether it is because you need to stop the boat to deal with a fouled prop, a genoa that won't furl or sudden storm that has popped up, you don't want to have to worry about how long the line will last and whether it is up to the strain.

You can get 30' of 5/16" G4 high-test chain and 220' of 5/8" nylon octo-plait pre-spliced rode for $310. Add a load-rated anchor shackle to it for another $10 or so... and your choice of anchor. :)

BTW, I am a big believer in the next gen anchors, and think they are a considerable improvement over the older designs, like the CQR, Bruce and Danforth. Get a Manson Supreme or Rocna as they are worth the extra money IMHO.
Ok. I hear you. In that vein, then, do I go with the conventional 3 strand twisted nylon, which looked like the low cost option, or is there a better cord for anchor rode that might cost me a little more?
 

·
Telstar 28
Joined
·
1,000 Posts
The Octo-plait or eight strand braided is a good line with a lot of beneficial characteristics for an anchor rode, and usually not significantly more money than the three-strand laid line. It doesn't have a tendency to hockle as does the three-strand, and it flakes far more compactly, which means you can store the rode in a smaller space. Windlasses handle it well, and many windlass manufacturers recommend it for their rope/chain gypsies, and it can take a good chain-to-rope splice so it feeds through the gypsy well.

As I said previously, you can get pre-spliced rodes at a reasonable price with G4-high-test chain pre-made. You do have to inspect the splice for wear regularly, but other than that and rinsing it with fresh water, they don't require much maintenance.

A good woven chafe protector is a necessity. The reason I like the woven chafe protectors is that they help prevent the second major reason for anchor line failure—heat buildup due to internal friction—which the plastic/rubber hose chafe protectors can cause. The woven ones let water through to cool and lubricate the anchor rode, helping prevent heat buildup.

Ok. I hear you. In that vein, then, do I go with the conventional 3 strand twisted nylon, which looked like the low cost option, or is there a better cord for anchor rode that might cost me a little more?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
728 Posts
Rope chain splice


An eye splice over a thimble gives a good way of connecting a 3 strand line to a chain, however there is the problem of passing that thimble thru the windlass and into the deck pipe. So...the referenced websites gives other methods for the splice with a statement that an splice thur the last length of the chain (making a U turn ) will reduce the strength of the line by 50%. I don't see how this splice is much different than an eye splice over a thimble with the line making a U turn around the thimble rather than thru the chain length. My thoughts are that the chafe of the line around the chain is the most probable failure mode and that with a sufficent number of tucks into the splice that the line strength is not reduced by the 50 % as stated. The 2 methods referrenced seem to me would be more likely to chafe vs. a U turn around the last chain length and subsequent eye splice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
.....a splice thru the last link of the chain (making a U turn) will reduce the strength of the line by 50%.
I don't see how this splice is much different than an eye splice over a thimble with the line making a U turn around the thimble rather than thru the chain link.
The secret is very simple: “RADIUS

- modern fibers don’t like to be bended following a very short radius – a “U” turn around the last link of the chain has a radius = the diameter of the chain: much smaller than the radius around the thimble...

When doing anchor tests, we often broke the rope and in 100% of the cases the failure occurs at the level of the knot, where the fibers make a small radius curve...

João
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
728 Posts
The secret is very simple: “RADIUS

- modern fibers don’t like to be bended following a very short radius – a “U” turn around the last link of the chain has a radius = the diameter of the chain: much smaller than the radius around the thimble...

João
If this is true then one of the methods on the referrenced website shown for splicing the line to chain also has a small radius.


http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/3S_C1_RopeChain.pdf
 

·
Telstar 28
Joined
·
1,000 Posts
One point that Ancorlatina fails to mention is that the backsplice used to attach three-strand laid lines to an anchor chain separates the three strands of the laid rope and bends them around the chain, but it isn't as bad as trying to do that with the rope as a whole, since each strand is smaller and the radius is relatively much larger for the strand as compared to the entire rope.

He also neglects to mention that the fact that the lines often broke at the splice point could also be due to chafe.

The backsplice is the preferred method for connecting a line to an anchor chain if you use a windlass. All of the windlass and rope manufacturers pretty much agree. Using a thimble can be far more dangerous, because it requires you to manually handle the rode on retrieval.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
728 Posts
One point that Ancorlatina fails to mention is that the backsplice used to attach three-strand laid lines to an anchor chain separates the three strands of the laid rope and bends them around the chain, but it isn't as bad as trying to do that with the rope as a whole, since each strand is smaller and the radius is relatively much larger for the strand as compared to the entire rope.

.

Good point dog about the radius issue. I still like keeping that line intack when passing it thru the last chain link rather than separating the three strands. I do think chafe is the potential problem for failure regardless of the method used and I do keep an eye on that eye splice. FWIW That is the type of splice I used when anchored during a Cat 1 hurricane some years ago. Used 5/8 inch 3 strand nylon line spliced to 80 feet of 3/8 BBB chain. Had somewhere around 200 feet of total rode out and that 5/8 inch line looked like a banjo string. Never will stay aboard the boat again during a hurricane if i can help it and that was only a Cat 1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
the backsplice used to attach three-strand laid lines to an anchor chain separates the three strands of the laid rope and bends them around the chain, but it isn't as bad as trying to do that with the rope as a whole, since each strand is smaller and the radius is relatively much larger for the strand as compared to the entire rope.

He also neglects to mention that the fact that the lines often broke at the splice point could also be due to chafe.
CHAFFING is the main concern for a rope, on the seabottom (use some chain) at the level of the splice and also at the cleat or Samson post...

I can’t see how (or why?) the fact to separate the three strands or splicing the whole rope will change something; the radius is still the diameter of the chain link... (at least for the inner fibers, and not that much bigger for the external ones..)

This is why, my favorite is the elongated splice described in BlueMoment - Articles

This splice will also go easily through the deck pipe and the windlass...

João
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,880 Posts
A Shovel Splice.

CHAFFING is the main concern for a rope, on the seabottom (use some chain) at the level of the splice and also at the cleat or Samson post...

I can’t see how (or why?) the fact to separate the three strands or splicing the whole rope will change something; the radius is still the diameter of the chain link... (at least for the inner fibers, and not that much bigger for the external ones..)

This is why, my favorite is the elongated splice described in BlueMoment - Articles

This splice will also go easily through the deck pipe and the windlass...

João
I understand this is a mess in terms of bringing up mud, but I have no experience. I tried it once to see how it went through the windlass...it did not. Jumped right out of the gypsy. Perhaps my windlass is fussy, but the only thing that feeds well is a standard last-link splice, with the ends tapered the last few tucks.

Radius makes all the difference - it changes the % of fibers carrying load. Consider climbing ropes and round-slings for crane work; neither are laid or braided in their working parts. the interiors are a collection of very small ropes in order tot maintain full working strength over small radius edges.
 

·
Telstar 28
Joined
·
1,000 Posts
CHAFFING is the main concern for a rope, on the seabottom (use some chain) at the level of the splice and also at the cleat or Samson post...
Yes, chafe is a concern. But, with regular inspection, it isn't a serious issue.

I can’t see how (or why?) the fact to separate the three strands or splicing the whole rope will change something; the radius is still the diameter of the chain link... (at least for the inner fibers, and not that much bigger for the external ones..)
If you think about the rope as individual strands of fiber, when you bundle them together in a thick bundle, the ones on the outside of a tight radius bend are under a lot more tension than the ones on the inside of the bend, due to the fact that they have to go a further distance. By separating the rope in to three laid strands, the fibers are now being stressed more evenly than they are when you do an EYESPLICE with the entire rope. By spreading the tension on the fibers more evenly, they're far less likely to break.

This is why, my favorite is the elongated splice described in BlueMoment - Articles

This splice will also go easily through the deck pipe and the windlass...

João
From what I've seen, very few windlass manufacturers recommend this type of splice. IMHO, it probably causes more chafe on the line IMHO as the chain and rope move against each other. The single point of contact between the rope and chain on a properly done backsplice is generally tight enough that movement is almost non-existent, which limits the amount of chafe possible there.

Also, the elongated splices are going to collect more mud or sand and the galvanizing on the chain is going to wear faster because of that. The backsplice is generally tight enough that not a lot of mud or sand will get in, and because it is fairly limited in its movement, it won't wear the galvanization as much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
SD,
I guess that on a tri, you need to keep the weight down, but when cruising, would a 6mm short link chain and long nylon snubber be more effective than 200' nylon ? If you have a shoal draft vessel, do you need to anchor in areas which need 200' of rode?

A long splice is the only way to join the lines, but if the splice is being used (>30m of rode out), can he rely on his splice. Only about 3 or 4 turns is required in the splice, but tensioning each turn is very important and if not done correctly, will weaken the line at some point.
back to you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,192 Posts


I did the above splice 5 or 6 years ago. It was used hard and even drug across the barnacle encrusted boat bottom. There were numerous chafed areas.
There is no question that the more you deform a piece of line, whether by knotting, splicing or simply turning, the more you weaken it. However, there is usually more than enough safety margin built in that it becomes a moot point.
As with most other pieces of rigging, failures usually result from chafe or corrosion. Both of which are evident in the photo.
With proper use and inspection, These types of failures can most always be avoided.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
knothead,
looks a beaut splice. I couldnt agree more with what you said about maintenance. I would put a stainless link between the galv and nylon. Then again, I personally just use 10mm chain and would be very rusty at splicing.
DC
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top