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We're big Carriacou fans ourselves.. something about the absence of cruise liners, I think, keeps it genuine.

Argle - bummer about the snorkel gear.. agree with pretty well all your comments though outside St V we didn't find the boat boys overly aggressive. Worst was Wallilabou but even then it wasn't more than mildly annoying. As you say they are manageable and it seems best not to utterly alienate them.

We avoided Soufriere, using a mooring at the Pitons themselves instead for a quick overnight stop. While it's nice to have 'relaxing' sails, getting some serious wind and swells off the top of St V or in the Bequiea Channel makes for some seriously fun surfing and high boatspeed numbers!!
 

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We didn't find much to recommend Salt Whistle Bay either - busy/crowded, LOUD music on the beach, the resort bar huts crawling with insects.

When we were last at the Tobago Cays they had just instituted the park fees.. presume they are still in place?

Anyhow sounds like your experienced pretty much matched ours.. Nice getaway from the BC blahs...
 
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