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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever since I replace the filter on my Racor I’ve been having issues with my motor stalling. I believed the motor was stalling because I replaced the 30 micron filter with a 2 micron filter. I’ve since put a 30 micron fitler in, replaced the motors fuel filter assembly. Replaced the high pressure bleed screw. Emptied the tank and checked for gunk. Removed the hoses and fastenings from the tank and Racor to make sure there were no obstructions. Installed a vacuum gauge just after the Racor which doesn’t seem to show any significant vacuum leaks but the motor is still stalling after running for a few (3) hours.

Looking for advice on what to test or replace next. I’ve included a photo of the vacuum gauge showing it’s status after the latest motor stall. The small red needle shows the highest vacuum recorded.



Gauge Motor vehicle Speedometer Measuring instrument Auto part


thanks,
Hugh
 

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Seems odd that it would run for 3 hours and then stall. Beside back checking all your recent work, is there a screen on the pick-up tube that is getting gunked up? If so, I'd remove the screen.
 

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Some more detail would help. Since you are talking stalling, it sounds like it starts OK. You say after running for a few hours. Does it start right away again after stalling? Do you have to bleed the fuel system at that point to get it going again.

Without further info, I would guess its an air leak. And since the filter change started this, that's where I would look first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it’s an air leak. If I bleed the system the motor starts right away and will run fine for a few hours before stalling and needing to be bled again.

Since the vacuum gauge is mounted right after the racor wouldn’t it show if there was an air leak in the filter ?
 

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No the vacuum gage wont show an air leak it is to tell you if the filter needs changing. if it runs for hours before stalling then you have a very very small air leak.
 

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Which Racor filter do you have? I had the split halves of the 500 series loosen up on me. But they slightly leaked.

Is there any chance, in your zeal to fix this, you may have tightened something down so much you’ve over crushed the washer? Are there any copper crush washers in anything you removed and replaced. Those must be replaced each time, as they deform and harden.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There’s no screen on the pickup tube. I’ve removed the the pickup tube and checked for any debris.

I have a racor 220R. The filter I’m using is a R24P.

When I replaced the engine fuel filter assembly it came with new crush washers. The high pressure bleed screw also came with a new crush washer. I don’t believe I over tightened anything. I was pretty careful about that since the reason I replace the fuel filter assembly is that the bleed screw was stripped.

OK the vacuum gauge won’t indicate an air leak but it should rule out any obstruction upstream of the gauge correct?
 

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what about the engine filter housing O ring. if it runs for several hours before quitting that is a very small air leak or a full line inner lining collapsing and stopping the fuel flow.
 

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you could temporarily install a squeeze blub for an outboard motor or electric fuel pump on the line from the tank so you can pressurize the lines to help trouble shoot the problem
 

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I've had a small leak at the engine filter bleed screw. I keep a couple of those little clear plastic bleed screw washers to replace now and then.
 

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I had a similar problem with my Racor 220R after a fuel filter change. The engine is also a 3GM30F. The culprit to air slowly leaking back into the fuel lines was the check valve screw being slightly loose. It is located on top of the 220R housing. It is also worth checking for accumulated gunk inside the check valve.

Another possible overlooked leak spot is the plunger on top of the housing. Make sure that is quite tight.

Good luck. I know how frustrating this could be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don’t know how old the fuel hoses are. I’ve owned the boat for less than a year. The tank was replaced sometime in 2013 or 2014. The fuel hoses look good on visual inspection.

I have had trouble with Racor sometimes not priming and I had to add fuel directly to the ball valve to get the pump working. I don’t see that they sell gasket kits for the 200R anymore so I’m going to replace it.

Any recommendations on the correct model of fuel/water seperator for the 3GM?
 

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Any recommendations on the correct model of fuel/water seperator for the 3GM?
Technically, they are based on fuel flow and, for most sailboat engines, the smallest of them spec as big enough to get the filtering job done. However, there are features you may be interested in, such as a clear bowl to visually inspect, or top loading filter changes, as opposed to messier spin off canisters. The 500 series seems the most popular and perhaps the one you can buy filters for anywhere. Its a bigger unit, so also a question of whether it fits. No doubt it’s overkill.
 
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Another 3GM owner here with a Racor 220. Also had a problem with the unit after a filter change a few years ago. Should have known something was wrong when the plunger pump wouldn't bleed the filter. Rather than chasing down parts to rebuild it, I just replaced it.
 
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