[PaulinVictoria]

So, after a few weeks without using the boat, I had an interesting experience getting out of the slip today, basically the wheel was almost impossible to turn, which I only discovered once I had already cast off the lines and pushed the boat out of the slip. Fortunately I managed to manouveur back in again using prop walk, stretching and lots of grunting. Good job as it turns out I had also neglected to remove one of the extra storm lines so I wouldn't have got far anyway, but I digress.
Anyways, I had a poke around under the cockpit floor, which is always a pleasant place to be, and basically the whole system is in need of a damn good clean and re-lube. While doing this, I discovered a few meathooks in the cable, so it obivously needs replacing as well. So, I could go with another metal wire (either stainless, or galvanised with a ton of grease on it), or I could use some dynex/vectran instead. A cursory look at the various sheaves would indicate they are nice and smooth.
So, any reason to not use a hi-tech line instead of getting a rigger to make up a new steering cable at vast expense?

 

[aeventyr60]

Not sure of the vast expense a rigger would charge, as I've made up my own in some remote spots with a hand swage tool, new SS wire and crimp fittings from my spare parts trove.

 

[PaulinVictoria]

Assume I have no wire tools, and riggers are expensive

 

[Jaramaz]

Assume I have no wire tools, and riggers are expensive

Well, no, riggers are not expensive on everything. ss wire is cheap, so is crimp fittings.
Turnbuckles is another thing, they are expensive. But you do not need any new such so ..

I would go for ss wires for simple reasons as
- know how it works,
- has been used before
- know when it starts to be too old

/J

 

[Capt Len]

Measure the old SS wire. then use it to practice a few liverpool splices. Buy new wire and go for it. Better than swage,costs nothing, and so satisfying. First on your dock to be a competent sailor man. Apparently there's not many of us left.

 

[Jaramaz]

Measure the old SS wire. then use it to practice a few liverpool splices. Buy new wire and go for it. Better than swage,costs nothing, and so satisfying. First on your dock to be a competent sailor man. Apparently there's not many of us left.

This is Capt Len geared up. Splicing wire is not easy, the damn wire has its own life. Been there, done that and will never do it again. Simply not worth the time and effort. The rigger is happy to crimp, let him do it - he has the right tool, takes ½ a minute for him.

/J

 

[copacabana]

Paul, it shouldn't cost very much to make a new pair of cables. I just did mine for under 100 bucks. Take off the old ones and bring them to a rigging shop. Mine were crimped at one end (the end attached to the chain at the binnacle) and the other end has bulldog clamps (the end at the quadrant). It was no bid deal- about an hour to remove the old ones and install the new ones. My rigger didn't have the more flexible galvanized wire in stock so I went with SS. You should check if there aren't any tight turns before you go with a more rigid wire.

 

[pdqaltair]

What caused the meat hooks? Chafe or flex?

Line has a longer flex life. SS is far more chafe resistant. Dyneema will creep under sustained tension. Weight doesn't matter much down low.

I'd go back with SS.

 

[PaulinVictoria]

No idea what caused them, I would expect the cables are original so could be approaching 40 years old so could be either. There is very little tension in the cables, certainly nowhere near the point that dyneema or the like would exhibit any creep so that doesn't really concern me. At the moment the quadrant ends are machine swaged onto a stud (big thread, looks like 3/8" or so) and then that doubles as the adjuster. I have a feeling that to replicate this, those fittings alone are likely $30+ each. Haven't looked at the chain end yet.

 

[travellerw]

Intersting thread as I need to do this in April. My cable is exactly like copacabana describes. Swaged at the chain with Bulldog clamps at the other end.

Everyone keeps telling me it won't be expensive. I would be interested if you do get a quote from a rigger.

 

[PaulinVictoria]

OK, so it sounds like wire is likely the better bet, known quantity etc. Now the question is of course stainless vs galvanised......

 

[bljones]

the price difference isn't going to be that great- go stainless.

 

[rugosa]

This is what it should look like https://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/planning/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf - OEM detail from Edson, bottom of page 7. Nicropressed on chain end, bulldogs on quadrant end. If it is aftermarket (Cinkel, Merriman, etc.) should be similar.

 

[Capt Len]

Meathooks will be work hardened fractures over too tight bends. Aircraft control wire may be better choice. Unlike regular wire it's difficult to splice. Going to a threaded rod to chain may be tricky too since splices don't go into a turning block very well (or lay in a quadrant groove either.) Each situation will be different but may be worth a few extra bucks to get it right. AS to ' not worth the time and effort' comment, I know how it is. Most of the dangerously inept sailors I meet have that attitude

 

[PaulinVictoria]

What's in there now seems to work fine so I will probably just replicate it again.

 

[Rockter]

I wonder why it was so stiff to move?

 

[aeventyr60]

The edson guide is good. Notice on the last page at the bottom in the fine print the recommended maintenance...wonder how many actually do this?

 

[PaulinVictoria]

I wonder why it was so stiff to move?

Judging by the sticky 'orrible gunk I was cleaning off the cables, I don't think there had been any maintenance done at all by PO. A few weeks without use and it had set.

 

[rugosa]

If you disconnect the cable from the quadrant and rudder is stiff to turn by hand or with emergency tiller look to the rudder installation needing service or repair. If wheel is still stiff look to gearing near top of pedestal needing service. The cable condition might be result of another problem.

 

[PaulinVictoria]

Yep, it freed up a lot just by cleaning off some of the goop and putting some light oil on the cable, so I am suspecting that is the problem. Will see if/when I manage to get some time to take it all apart, replace the cables etc.