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One of None
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Discussion Starter #1
Smelled diesel the other night.. checked this morning after spending the night on the boat.. yes it's true.. I'm the proud :rolleyes: owner of a leaky fuel tank. It's not going to be easy to remove either! any O30 owners want to share the way you did it please let me know?
 

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One of None
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Discussion Starter #2
on researching just casually it seems plastic and alum tanks are about the same price.. Also it looks like I tight squeeze to pull the tank to the starboard aft bunk area. ( won't have to remove water heater, steering, muffler etc. I'm taking pics of this project! more later
 

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On fuel tanks I've had to replace, I cut the tops out, lined the inside with carpet, [after a thourough cleaning] and installed collapsable bladder tanks. The old tank protects it from puncture, the carpet from chafe, and eyebolts mounted in the corners of the old hold the grommets in the corners of the new tank. Bladder tanks require no vent so no air [or moisture ] bring contaminants into the fuel system.
 

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One of None
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Discussion Starter #4
Tank is OUT! didn't even have time to take pics!

Here is the way it came out.

Original tank is 26" long, 18" wide, and 14" high.

Removed all hoses, dropped the anti siphon loop and tied it back on the engine.
Removed the exhaust hose off the water muffler and tied it up and out on the steering pedestal.

Removed smelly fuel soaked plywood from forward side of tank.

Pulled the fuel soaked wood and plywood tank support frame from under the tank. :rolleyes:

The tank then dropped with the filler ends high and towards the port.

Friends helped and we actually lifted it up, and slid it out under the the wires and cables, stood it on end in the lazrette.

Sawzall took the filler neck off since it was the only thing that would keep it from clearing the Laz lid opening.

Then with 2 pairs of vise grips on the edges they lifted it up and forward over the water heater and out!
The laz was snug but the tank did slide out!

Picking up new tank in the morning! 26lX16wX12h 19 gallons.
Hoping the new tank guage sending unit works with old gauge!

here again.. the worry about doing a nasty difficult job was worse then doing the actual work! (as last year when we dropped the rudder for shaft removal)
 

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Congradulations

Most people take more time talking about the job than it takes to do the job.Glad to hear from someone that just gets it done.
 

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Glad it worked out, I had all sorts of visions of removing the tank piece at a time, but it wasn't too much trouble once I got into the project.

At the cost of a sending unit it would probably be a good idea to replace it. Check the deck fill gasket while you have the tank disconnected from the fill. Run water over the deck fill and look for leaking on the inside, I was amazed to find the amount of water that was able to leak into the tank from a failed deck fill gasket.

If the new tank is aluminum pay attention to the installation so that there is no bare aluminum in contact with a wet or moist surface. Painting or padding will work. There are several documents about this on line here's a link to one: How to Install an Aluminum Fuel Tank : Boats, Yachts - Maintenance Repair and Troubleshooting
 

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One of None
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Discussion Starter #7
going with poly from moeller, 19gal tank, my old tank was leaking pretty bad too! I looked inside the old one, there was sluge around the pick up tube location and the strainer on the pkup was really gunked up.

I'm going to have space under the new tank, wonder what I can store there that isn't needed often but needs to be on the boat. crossed my mind to relocate the water heater there.. but nah.

Thanks for all the moral support guys!
 

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One of None
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Discussion Starter #8
Just an update! I think that I'm going to turn the new tank 90 degrees this winter. it's not baffled and the fuel really sloshes with the long side running port to starbrd. I'm glad it's easy to see the fuel level in this tank! The sending unit that came with the Moller tank either failed or the old guage failed, it did work on the trip to the bay back in June though! :D
 

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Is plastic a common use in a permanent sail tank setup? I ask because I have always seen metal...typically alu. When I replaced my tank, the yard never discussed anything other than another alu. Plastic may be just fine...I don't know either way.
 

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The Moeller Poly tank is for permanent mounting.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Fule Bladder

XSboats recommended taking the top off the tank and replace wiht a fuel bladder. I now have this same problem, which manufacturer would you recommend and any lessons putting in the bladder??
 

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Dunno how you'll make the necessary cuts particularly the one at the back of the tank without removing the tank which at that point you may want to consider purchasing a replacement tank. The one for Karma was manufactured by Florida Marine Tanks, they still have the drawings and can fab one for you. They made the new tank for me out of a thicker gauge of aluminum and enamel painted the tank to keep corrosion at bay.

Here's a link to my r&r of Karma's tank: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/odayo...ic/list?mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
 

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sailingcal21, quick question for you. In part of this thread, you mentioned that you cut a 3x18 in the starboard engine access panel. If I had them make the tank 3" shorter, do you think I could get the new one in?? I've calculated a 3" drop will reduce the volume to 25 gal which is acceptable for me and I would simply cut the old one out. How say you based on your experinece??
 

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One of None
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Discussion Starter #15
SO34 did you miss part of this thread ? The old tank comes out intact. just cut the filler neck off. lift it out the port lazerette. Make a tank? 3" shorter.. just buy one job done!
ps: Had to remove mine this summer, had a mess of bad fuel someone gave me.. took all of 20 mins to remove the Moller, and about 20 mins to put it back. had about a pint and rust and water from the bad fuel. Lesson learned, never use "free" fuel and never ever fill without a filter funnel!
 

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Denise, I'm presuming that SO34 has an O'Day 34 so his best removal side is starboard as opposed to the experience that you had. The filler end on the O'34 tank is toward the rear of the tank where the height of the tank is only 12" so there's ample room to remove the tank without cutting the filler neck. Then to replace it with an intact tank.

SO34, Denise is the experienced one with her O'30, so I'd follow her lead. If we're talking about and O'34, I've been there, done that and have the t-shirt.

IMHO, I'd suggest that you remove the batteries; remove the starboard engine access door; break loose the tank and attempt to remove it from the starboard side. Once you have the tank against the fiberglass scribe a line the length of the tank on the fiberglass and cut it away. If you take any care at all you should do a way better job than I, based on one of my pictures. Having made the cut, the tank will easily come out. I sweated out all sorts solutions and this was the most straightforward and the best one.

If you're determined to cut the tank up, go ahead chop it up all you want once its been removed :). I've still got my old one in the backyard can't seem to part with it.
 

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DeniseO30, thanks alot for your thoughts and I have really enjoyed many of your comments and thoughts on the subject. You guys have really explored all the options.

However, SailingCal21 is on target that I have an O'day 34, 1983 vintage. After many measurements, and reading about both of your experiences, I will have to agree the starboard engine access door is probably the best way for the 34' model.

I will have to admit that I am a little anal about cutting on the fiberglass (absolute last resort). After reading about how you pulled yours out, I have thought about cutting my tank into two parts, remove it and then go with a 15" tall tank that, by my measurements, should go in without major figerglass cutting. This is just a minor modification of your process to avoid the fiberglass issue and only compromising 5 gal capacity. Reading between the lines, from your experience, I imagine you had to **** the tank a little to get the filler nipple into the engine compartment first and then a little sweat and tears should get the tank back into the same area (3" shorter). From your vantage point, is this a reasonable assumption (i.e. 3 " shorter avoids glass cutting)?? Just thought I would ask from the experienced guy with the "t-shirt" :)

I did read about the guy you cut the tops off and used the bladder, but I am leaning towards what you guys did and use a new tank (Florida Marine or Moeller) and then I can get all the old wood out too.
 

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One of None
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Discussion Starter #18
before you start cutting, really try getting it out the port laz. I'm sure the O30 and O34 are pretty close to the same in that respect. There is a long board that is up on edge that has to be removed. The tank did slide under the wiring harness that is all attached to the engine panel.
 

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Denise, thanks and I will go back and remeasure. I am all for the easiest solution. Thanks again for help and quick responses.
 

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Sailingcal21 - After reading the original thread a second time, I finally realized that you said the forward height was 18" and the aft was 12". This is most helpful. I have called the tank OEM as I believe you did and they are searching the files for the drawing. Question, was the bottom a straight plate that angled from the 18" to the 12" on the aft section? I am hoping to get the tank manufactured prior to pulling the old one out. Right now, if I keep the fuel level to 1/4 or less, the leakage is minimal and I can keep it out of the bilge with a couple of rags.
 
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