Tashiba 40- Help Me Plan Re-Fit

Imho

If there's a Tashiba Owner's Association that may be a good place to pose your questions. You might discover, for example, the teak decks are not much to worry about and are worth keeping. You may also discover the bottom is fine the way it is, too. Other owners might make suggestions you haven't yet thought about.

Diesels can last an awfully long time if well maintained. 5000 hours could be pre-midlife. Maybe you could hire a Yanmar specialist to determine your diesel's condition before replacing it. Wouldn't it be nice to learn it is healthy and all you really need is a full set of spare parts? As for the rig, the time and money necessary to update it are likely worth every penny. Don't forget to inspect the chainplates too.

Electronics fall into the category of personal choice. If you are very dependent on them, have spare units on board in the event you need to replace them. Are all wire runs done with tinned wire? If not, at this point in time corrosion might be an issue.

Others here will most certainly have much to add.

Re. the teak decks. If they are currently in OK shape, I would put a very low priority on getting rid of the teak. When it's time to replace them, everything will depend on what's underneath. If you are lucky, there is a regular fiberglass deck underneath, and all you need to do is remove the teak, fill in the fastener holes in the fiberglass, and paint or cover in whatever material you want to use.

If there is no fiberglass deck underneath, what you eventually do might be dependent on where you and the boat are at the time, what the labor costs are there and what material for the new deck is available there, and what it will cost.

With your limited refit budget, the deck is clearly a low priority at this time.

Based on the info you've posted, my priority for the refit would be:

1. standing and running rigging replacement (100% if you are going offshore). I would include in this part a thorough checkout and evaluation of your furling for both the main and the headsails. My understanding is the newer mainsail furling systems are more reliable for going offshore than older systems. I have a strong bias against mainsail furling systems of any kind for going offshore and prefer dutchman type systems.

2. thorough engine/propulsion checkout and repair/rebuild as necessary.

3. bottom... since the boat came from cold water in New England, the lack of blisters/osmosis is not at all surprising. But when you take the boat over the horizon, she will be in warm waters a lot, I assume. Eventually that will take its toll and blisters are almost inevitable without a barrier coat, IMO. If you have the time, you might be able to do it yourself while the boat is out of the water.

4. autopilot/self-steering/electronics

If the autopilot is a wheel-type, you may want to add a beefier below decks type. That will be expensive... probably $3k or so. And you will want a windvane... that's another $3k.

I'm not sure that SEA SSB will be good enough for a circumnav. The SEA units I'm familiar with were not very impressive. And you will want to evaluate the rest of the boat's electronics for possible upgrade to suit you.

5. fuel, water and holding tanks... probably not tested by your surveyor, but you need an assessment of what you have in terms of both capacity and material/condition. Metal tanks of either aluminum, stainless or mild steel start to fail when a boat approaches 25-30 years in age. Now is the time to check yours out and replace as necessary.

I think you will be fortunate if your refit budget proves to be adequate. And we are talking only about the potential big-ticket items. You will want to get into every nook and cranny of your boat and its systems to get ready to go to sea.

But anyway congratulations.... looks like a great boat!!

Nice looking boat! I'd have ot say though that 20-30K for refitting a 40 footer sounds really light. My 26 footer is eating a hell of a lot more than I expected, and I too am very handy. I have spent nothing on anyon
e else doing work and shopped all materials carefully, mostly from non-marine sources.

A word about the greenhouse structure. I worked in that industry. Put DOUBLE poly on it, not single, and buy an inflation fan. The whole poly greenhouse industry was a failure until Dr Roberts from Rutgers U came up with the idea to inflate for insulation purposes. However he then discovered that inflating it drove the inner layer tight against the frame, and the out layer far away. This virtually stopped all the wear that slapping in the wind caused, which ussually destroyed the plastic in a short time. Today the plastic fails only from UV degradation. So buy the poly from a greenhouse supply. You can get UV resistance up to five years.

Gary H. Lucas

Another Tashiba 40owner

I looked at the boat you bought several years ago and was not interested for the following reasons.
High engine hours. The engine was not maintained well and worried me.
There was mold under all the cushions and I'm very allergic to it.
The exterior teak was in poor condition.
The decks were at a point that may need replacing.

I did like the Pro-furl boom furler - neat
Sails were ok
Electronics were dated

I purchased a 1986 Tashia in Trinidad that seemed to be perfect. I was worried about teak decks and the cost of replacement. My decks have ten good years remaining. I got a quote to replace the decking or replace with treadmaster. $18,000-$25,000.
Engine replacement - $18,000 for a new Yanmar installed.

The good
These boats sail beautifully. They will handle 20-30 kts without a whimper, and make 6 knots with 15 kts of wind. I've sailed in the lower Caribbean for over 2 years and have put 5 thousand miles under my hull.
All my teak is varnished and kept Bristol. Lots of work but it's worth it.
I've cleaned, buffed and laqured the ports and they look new.
Check your rigging. We have new Norseman fittings and the boat will stand up to any pounding. We have a friend with a 37 Baba and had a swedge fail and lost his mast.
We spent close to 30k to bring a "near perfect" boat to good seaworthy standards.
Give it a good home, lots of love and attention and you will be rewarded.

Happy sailing
Bill Reynolds
s/v baidarka (formerly Trinity)

deniseO30- Thanks for the compliment. You're right, I'm out sailing. We just got into Charleston after cruising the Bahamas last winter.

baidarka7- I knew the boat needed a bit of work, but I felt she was a diamond in the rough (especially at the price I paid).


High engine hours. The engine was not maintained well and worried me.
I replaced with a new Yanmar 4jh5e and doing the majority of the work myself, spent much less than $18000
There was mold under all the cushions and I'm very allergic to it.
I used a mold killing product available at the Depot in a green bottle. It kills mold nearly instantaneously.
The exterior teak was in poor condition.
Striped the brightwork, and redid with "Honey Teak"
The decks were at a point that may need replacing.
The decks "looked" rough, but there was quite a bit of meat left (3/8''). I sanded, replaced exposed bungs, and re-caulked the deck.

I did like the Pro-furl boom furler - neat
I like the Leisure-furl as well
Sails were ok
The main is in good condition (it was from 2003/2004 with little use) The staysail and jib probably need to be replaced soonish.
Electronics were dated
I don't care that much about fancy new electronics. The instruments are KVH (I think they're pretty nice). The GPS/chart plotter in a Northstar 6100 from early 2000's. Nothing fancy, but it works.