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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G''day all,
I just purchased a wonderful craft as a first sail boat in 15 years. One little problem, the previous owner spent all the time below deck or not on the boat at all. The teak on the hatch and the toe rails is in desperate need of repair and refinishing. I would appreciate any suggestions you might lend.
Thanks,
M
 

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First, sand off all of the previous finish. I would then, if necessary, bleach out the wood using one of the products available commerically. I would not use one of these two part teak cleaners; they are an acid which eats away the top layer of teak. After you prep the surface, I would put 5-7 coats of Eppifanes on. The first coat should be 50% Eppifanes / 50% thinner, the second 75% Eppifanes / 25% thinner. Sand lightly in between coats and make sure you tape off with a low tack masking tape like the blue- and green-line products from 3M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks again Ham for the suggestions. As far as the bleach product .. do you reccomend any particular brand? Do I use any type of stain before I apply the Eppifanes or does it have nayural staining qualities? The masking with the 3m products....is this like a household masking tape for painting? Sorry to be such a novice!!!!!
Michael
 

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The bleaching products are just that, bleach. Any brand would be fine. Teak is a beutiful wood. The eppifanes has a tint to it but is not a stain, a paint, or other such obsurer of the grain and the color of the natural wood. There are other options, however. You could simply oil the teak. I find that it does not last long and that you need to constantly reapply the oil. It is, however, a simple process; you just slap some on with a rag or a cheap bush and then blot off any excess. There is also a product called Cetol that has gotten very high marks. I used it one year and it holds up quite well. I personally dont like it as it looks to me like brown paint and obscures the wood. I suggest the eppifanes from personal experience and due to the fact that most megayachts make it their choice. I have no relationship to the company.
 

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With regard to your masking tape question; use a high quality, low tack tape like 3M''s Blueline tapes. Blueline tape is NOT like indoor masking tape. If you use indoor masking tape, you will have a huge adhesive removal job when you take the tape off the hull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have just one more question regarding your suggestions, hamiam. I was at Strictly Sail in Chicago and looked for the eppifanes(sp?) you suggested. No luck. Can you tell me a brand name or supplier for these products?
Thanks for the assistance,
Michael
 

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Epifanes is the brand name. It can be found at www.defender.com or www.westmarine.com / Read and follow the directions careful and you should have excellent results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
G''day mate. awaryadjavagoodweegend?FERGIT the fancy stuff mate,...Teak is a beautiful wood and DOES NOT NEED TO BE BLEACHED!!!!If you use regular masking tape you''ll need adhesive remover .AND,,,,use a nice easy varnish from Z-Spar or something...Yachtsmens, or if you''re good...Captains....Man''o''War is also a nice flowing even layout product.I am a pro, and my tip to you is,.....method!! Be serious. Be consistent.Be thorough,Be meticulous......then apply varnish. Stay away from anything with -ane on the end of it.AT ALL TIMES. The most important part of varnish is prep. An old Italian Sailor in Sydney told me back in ''66......"good varnishwork is hidden inside sandpaper.You just have to rub enough of it on the wood".Sand your...paper ready wood from 60 (if it needs it) to 80 to 100.Don''t waste time or money sanding any more than that. Use a speed block sander. Cut your paper into quarters with scissors.Wipe down your work everyday before you start with thinners. Sand your last time with the grain, by hand.dust down the boat with a hand brush...I use a painters brushabout a foot long with black bristles with the handle sticking out the end.Apply your 50.50 mix. Next morning early...HOSE DOWN THE BOAT!...Then wipe your 50/50 with paint etch....get a half gallon, use it every trime you touch your job.Every morning wipe ''er down. Apply a coat go home.Next day.....etch, then varnish. Don''t make the same fool mistake that everyone else does by applying a coat then sanding it all off the next day...sheer stupidity.Cautiosly apply your varnish!!!!If you get a run and you find it the next day, scrape it off with your fingernailand let it cire for an hour or two before you etch and re=coat.I do not sand any brightwork until at least five coats are on! Then I sand once with 120, with a block where useful on large planes to create a single surface, or not at all on corners or wear areas. Go around the marina and look at all the varnishwork you can and notice how most every one starts to burn on a curved surface like a handrail or a cabin trim or the like. Corners sand off easier and burn first, so don''t do it.I''m transfering title right now and my site will be searchable as maritimetradition.com.......currently you can look up some of my works at...maritimetradition.homestead.com.......ciao for now...........Rev. Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
NOW ROB.......What did I just say about staying away from anything ending in -ane?? What you know now isn''t the half of it....Rev. MIke
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The most practical materials to use, are the simple ones. I recall when the ''thanes'' started coming out; all the johny-come-latelys were running around with oooh and aahhhh and a year later they were going OH NO!! Sikaflex....there''s another one. If you need polysulphide, use polysulphide, don''t go get some fast dry right out of a tube air cure whale snot!! use polysulphide. It''s known as the black death for a reason! USE IT! Varnish is VARNISH. Don''t screw around with a formula that''s easy and time proven. Regular Man''o''War can be gotten anywhere and cleans up with thinners. Other fancy things a VERY SPECIALISED, require special thinners and weather conditions, and prep techniques that are not the domain of the casual wood worker, and they are not worth the trouble anyway. Plenty of new owners run out and get in over their heads needlessly, then don''t do any follow up/ You''d be better off using a product that''s easier to handle in all ways, and then STAY ON TOP OF IT!! That is the solution, maintenance!! You can''t use some fancy complex material to absolve yourself from the need to do regular recoats. Think about it. Rev. Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mike, when you say to etch your last coat before adding a new coat, what do you etch with? I am not familiar with paint etch. Does the thinner recommended for the varnish work, or is there something cheaper? I don''t see you mentioning taping before varnishing. If you do tape, then washing with hose makes the tape difficult to remove after final coat. Please reply directly to [email protected] as I do not frequent this board. Thanks. Ric
 

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Yes, Groundhog- You really should check dates before replying.. if he hasn't finished his varnishing by now... he's probably in trouble.
 
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