Pics would help.
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Teak repair (Large cracks and chunks)
Hey all!! I'm working on restoring a 1966 Southcoast 23 and the teak and general woodwork on deck needs a lot of work. I've been sanding and going through the standard restoration progress but I'm trying to find a way to patch up the holes in the teak. I can add photos to this post later when i get back from work but I've been looking for awhile and since the season is about to start I'm trying to get it done sooner rather than later.
Thanks so much and happy sailing y'all!
Thanks so much and happy sailing y'all!
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
As capta stated, pics will help but in general, fill screw holes and such with plugs. You can get tapered plug cutters in various sizes at most online woodworking stores. It's possible to use them with a drill, but they work best using a drill press. A dab of water proof Titebond III on the end of the plug and a tap with a mallet (aligning to the wood grain) is all that's needed to set it. In many cases, you really don't even need a glue if using tapered plugs. Trim the exposed plug end with a chisel & plane and sand to make a perfect flush finish.Hey all!! I'm working on restoring a 1966 Southcoast 23 and the teak and general woodwork on deck needs a lot of work. I've been sanding and going through the standard restoration progress but I'm trying to find a way to patch up the holes in the teak.
I would remove, dress the existing removed piece and re install.
Take care to properly fill / seal the old screw holes.
Probably best to use new attachment locations.
Take care to properly fill / seal the old screw holes.
Probably best to use new attachment locations.
From what I can see, it appears that is a toe rail to deck problem, not a cracked board. Is this a wooden boat?
Whatever, I was only thinking of access,
You are going to have to resurface the wood and deck (making them so they mate up without space between that plank and the deck, without roundness where it meets the deck. As mentioned, you will have to cut the existing bolts (worst case scenario, with a hacksaw blade) and carefully caulk the plank as you replace it. There should be no visible space between the two. I reiterate; caulk this mating well.
On Skipping Stone we had persistent small leaks that we could not find. One day as I did my annual check of my chain plates, I noticed weeping signs from the bolts I could see, fore and aft. It took years to get them all, dropping the headliners, repairing the leaks and replacing the headliner, between charters.
Now, the question I can't answer w/o more pics is: will doing this going to make this piece uneven with the rest of the toe rail?
So, once again more pictures would help immensely.
Whatever, I was only thinking of access,
You are going to have to resurface the wood and deck (making them so they mate up without space between that plank and the deck, without roundness where it meets the deck. As mentioned, you will have to cut the existing bolts (worst case scenario, with a hacksaw blade) and carefully caulk the plank as you replace it. There should be no visible space between the two. I reiterate; caulk this mating well.
On Skipping Stone we had persistent small leaks that we could not find. One day as I did my annual check of my chain plates, I noticed weeping signs from the bolts I could see, fore and aft. It took years to get them all, dropping the headliners, repairing the leaks and replacing the headliner, between charters.
Now, the question I can't answer w/o more pics is: will doing this going to make this piece uneven with the rest of the toe rail?
So, once again more pictures would help immensely.
If it is not causing further water damage, I would go sailing and forget about it until next winter.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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