SailNet Community banner

21 - 40 of 349 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
AWL sells recommended products for their paint. My boat is AWLgripped and until last year I simply washed and waxed (with good wax, not polish!). I then had the yard prepare the boat for launch and they used AWLwash and AWLcare. However see my previous about machine buffing. But I will say the boat has not looked as nice except just after it was painted. This year I ordered some of the AWL stuff and plan to use it as directed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Great information Maine Sail. Nicely done. Interesting that the wax is just a protection layer. I was planning on skipping the wax, with the intention of painting my topsides in the fall or next spring. Now I wonder if I can bring my topsides to an acceptable appearance just by going through your steps an skip the painting. I'd like to keep the gelcoat if I can..one less thing to worry about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
3M pad conversion to Lake Country?

Halekai;

Thank you for the highly detailed write-up. On my prior boat I did the "dip in plastic" but with my new to me Freedom I really want a proper wax finish. Your contribution is invaluable.

Could you, would you provide a conversion from your 3M pad recommendations to the Lake Country ones? While you say the color determines the aggressiveness I am really using your work as a cookbook approach and don't want to add too much of any spice to the recipe.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Ed
Being There
Freedom 38 #154
out of Jamestown, RI
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Lake Country pad matching

I have the exact same question as above. I bought the 3m Superduty rubbing coumpound, Finesse it II, Maguires Swirl REmover, Maguires Show Car glaze, Lake Country CSS pads, and 3M wool pad. In practice, I realized I didn't know exactly WHICH lake country pad to use with Finesse it II, Swirl remover and Show Car Glaze. I can see the order of courseness in Lake Country's brochure, but they use terms like 'finessing' and 'swirl remover' that don't seem to follow the order of products with the same words in the labeling. At one point, I seemed to end up with less shine after applying swirl remover with a finer pad than what I had with Finesse it II and a more coarse pad. Also, can you provide the best machine speeds to use at each step? I also am a recipe kind of guy, so exact instructions are helpful. I suppose over time a person gets a feel for it, but to start I'd like to follow an exact guide. MaineSail, your help is invaluable! Thanks in advance for all your advice and any follow up you can give.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
colored hull deep south..

Hello, I am new in this foro I have been reading a looking for information to remove the oxidation and wax our boat. it is a 40 sundancer.

the only thing I am not sure is between fleet wax #885 and insulator wax.

we have a blue hull and we are located at Miami-Florida

which one we should use? I was thinking use Fleet Wax 885 but now I am not sure.

"If you are in the deep South, or have a dark colored hull, don’t bother with a Carnuba"

Thanks so much! very nice post! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Customer Service answer!!!

Thanks for your fast answer!
I Ask the same question to a customer service guy just to now what they said about this.
here his answer: :confused:

"If you are asking that the wax would melt off the finish once applied and then exposed to hot temperatures, that is false. The #845 Insulator Wax basically has the same ingredients as the #885 Fleetwax except the #885 has a higher concentration of them. We sell a ton of each in the South and have no problems like the one mentioned.
Now maybe if you left the can in a mall parking lot all day exposed to the hot sun, then I would say it would melt.

Mike Oczkowski
Customer Service"

I will go for insulator wax at least I'm sure that one is going to work fine. people suggest fleetwax but i don't want to take that risk :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Presta Cross Reference Chart

Maine:

Thanks for your "as usual" comprehensive and informative posts.

I used your tips to help revive our cabin house last summer - my dock neighbor said in jest that if I made it any shinier, it would be a hazard to navigation. :laugher

While normally bad form to revive an old post (Forum Admin: this one should be a sticky), I came across a new cross reference chart published by Presta that my help subscribers to this post, so I thought I'd put the Presta X-Ref Link here.
 

·
1975 Newport 28
Joined
·
573 Posts
Is there a way to determine whether the paint job is awlgrip or gelcoat? I know nothing about marine paints, but the hull on my '75 Newport 28 is a nice navy blue, and could use some sprucing up. The PO is long gone and probably didn't know anything about the paint anyway. It looks like a non-pro job, as there are ripples in the finish.

What should I do to figure out which type I have?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,680 Posts
While normally bad form to revive an old post (Forum Admin: this one should be a sticky),
I agree. Consider it done, and thanks for the suggestion.

P.S. If anyone is aware of other Maine Sail classics that should be stickies, please bring them to my attention and I'll be happy to take care of it. These very helpful and instructive posts shouldn't be buried in the depths of the forum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: arisatx

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Tips for car cleaning please!

Maine Sail,
I thank you for taking the time to share "trade secrets" with us. I know this is strictly a boat forum, but you mention many hours of cleaning and polishing classic cars. Being the proud owner of a all black H1, I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction as to cleaning and shining it. Should I follow your boat instructions or not?
If this is not the appropriate place to answer this maybe you could give me a url or two.
Thanks,
Barry
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,759 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Maine Sail,
I thank you for taking the time to share "trade secrets" with us. I know this is strictly a boat forum, but you mention many hours of cleaning and polishing classic cars. Being the proud owner of a all black H1, I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction as to cleaning and shining it. Should I follow your boat instructions or not?
If this is not the appropriate place to answer this maybe you could give me a url or two.
Thanks,
Barry
Barry,

Quite different for cars and dependent upon the paint type. For cars I now only use RO buffers and foam pads from Lake Country. I do use Presta Chroma 1500 though just not the more aggressive stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Maine Sail
Thanks for the great job of documenting this process and sharing it. I have done a scaled down version of this twice now (the last two consecutive Springs) with pretty poor results. I am using some of the right materials but I need to upgrade my buffer and take more steps. In my last attempt, I cleaned the hull with some (probably inefective) Greased Lightning spray cleaner, compounded the hull with 3m heavy duty compound (using a cheap buffer with a cheap wool pad), applied Finesse 2 with a cotton rag, waxed with Collenite 885 and hand buffed with a microfiber. I'm getting some of it right but I'm very unhappy with the results. At this point, I'm just wanting to protect the hull from further oxidation till next Fall (the boat - a 1881 Islander - goes back in the water soon) when I can do a more correct and thurough job.

After reading your original post again, I do have a couple areas that are unclear to me.
1. Pre-cleaning. I think this was my first big failing. I have read about using MEK, Tourlene, dish soap, etc. You suggest on/off. I have all these products but I'm still a little confused about what is for what. I want to remove Wax and imbeded dirt.
2. Getting a shine. I don't think I'm removing enough. The compounding seems to go pretty well but when I wipe it off, there is still little shine. I'll try wet sanding first next time. However, what ever I do get with the compound, when I follow it up with Finesse, the finish gets worse. I have basically stopped using Finesse because of this.

Thanks again,
harbin2
 

·
Pearson 303
Joined
·
410 Posts
compounded the hull with 3m heavy duty compound (using a cheap buffer with a cheap wool pad), applied Finesse 2 with a cotton rag,
Seems like the problem is applying the Finesse It with a cotton rag. In order to get the best polish (and this is the step that really brings out the shine), you need a good buffer and foam pad for the Finesse It. Compound alone will not give you a shine. You could use a fine wool pad for the polish, which is what we use, but it does require more skill to avoid swirls. Like Maine Sail, I spent many of my early years buffing cars. What really surprised me is that the Mikita polisher still seems to be the industry standard. Of course, we didn't have the fancy speed control units back then, nor did we have foam pads (really had to be careful not to burn the paint), but the technique is the same. Anyway, try the Finesse It with a buffer before resorting to wetsanding, I think you will be pleased with the results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
nooks and crannies?

I'd like to give my thanks for this thread as well...

I'm pulling the supplies together now - have the buffer, sandpaper, presta compounds - need to get some wool/foam pads.

One question - is there a smaller buffer that you'd recommend for the topsides nooks and crannies? areas the 7" machine won't get into...
 

·
Telstar 28
Joined
·
43,289 Posts
Fein multimaster??

I'd like to give my thanks for this thread as well...

I'm pulling the supplies together now - have the buffer, sandpaper, presta compounds - need to get some wool/foam pads.

One question - is there a smaller buffer that you'd recommend for the topsides nooks and crannies? areas the 7" machine won't get into...
 

·
Pearson 303
Joined
·
410 Posts
I'd like to give my thanks for this thread as well...

I'm pulling the supplies together now - have the buffer, sandpaper, presta compounds - need to get some wool/foam pads.

One question - is there a smaller buffer that you'd recommend for the topsides nooks and crannies? areas the 7" machine won't get into...
Like the Dog said, or another alternative is that I've seen buffing pads that will fit a palm sander (the round random orbit kind). However, I've never used one so can't comment on how well it works.
 
21 - 40 of 349 Posts
Top