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#1....wear leather gloves.

#2....go easy on the sandpaper.....light grit....

and don't forget the mask.....

Yeah, I know...Rocket Science.
 

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probably around 80 grit to prep for primer for paint on gelcoat, get an angle grinder, with a 120 flap wheel to remove nonskid (assuming it's the painted on variety) your toy will take forever to remove the nonskid, unless it is in extremely bad condition. Spend the $ on a good respirator.
 

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I just got my new Porter Cable 7345 Random Orbital Sander in the mail. I'm pretty excited, this thing seems to be pretty heavy duty... any tips for me so that I don't damage my hull, or myself?

Hope that y'all have a great weekend!
New power tool -- Very cool!:)

I'm in the market for one. How did you settle on this particular model?

Anybody have suggestions? Buckeye, are you familiar with these?
 

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Woodworking stores and probably others sell padded open finger tip gloves that have a vibration absorbing material in the padding. They work very well if you holding a sander or similar tool for much time. They are about 10-20 dollars. I have used them for years, bought them at Woodcraft.

michael
 

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I recently got done with two big bottom sanding jobs and I would like to share a recommendation on respirators. Spend the money to get a nice full-face model rather than a mouth-and-nose-only version. This will help to keep the dust out of your eyes that ordinary safety goggles will make. (This is doubly true if you do any work on the bottom of the boat or where the sander is above your head.) Also, I found that the full-face model I used was less likely to fogging up than any of the goggles I tried. Last, the full-face model keeps the dust off your face, which is one less thing you have to clean after you are done sanding for the day.

It may make sense to go cheap on some of the tools you get, but I don't think the respirator is one. Keep that nasty stuff out of your lungs and eyes.
 
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