I also do the "slow" pull, just to make sure the shift interlock isn't engaged, then started doing two slow pulls. On my motor when you pull the choke all the way out there is a linkage that also opens the throttle a small amount, maybe to where the "start" part is?I had a 4-stroke Tohatsu 5 on my 22. I never had to modify anything to get it to start, but I did eventually develop a meticulous procedure.
- Open air valve on tank
- Pump the bulb (just until it has pressure)
- Pull the choke all the way out, regardless of ambient temperature
- Throttle at the "start" marker
- One slow pull (with no intention of getting it to start on this pull)
- One fast pull to start
- Make sure that it's running well and water is pumping, and then slowly push in the choke.
I have no idea what the slow pull did, but if I did a slow pull first, the next pull just about always started it. If I neglected to do the slow pull, sometimes it would buck and act weird on the fast pull. On the very rare occasion that it wouldn't start on the first try using my usual method, I'd push the choke about halfway in for the subsequent pulls. If the engine was warm (from having just been run...I never saw much difference in the way the engine started just from the air temperature) I would do nearly the same thing, but without the priming bulb or setting the choke.
I don't think that this matches any of the typical advice, but my engine loved this approach and was uncannily dependable.
I think the problem I had was the one way in only vent on the tank created enough pressure to over ride the float valve, resulting in flooding. Since I "modified" the cap so it will vent both in & out, it started on the 2nd or 3rd pull. In the beginning, not knowing what the problem really was I was squeezing the ball past the point of it being firm, no doubt making the problem worse?
Curious to know if you have one of the newer tanks that only vent in, or an older conventional two way tank vent?
Thanks, Paul T