[alctel]

While my mast is down, I took off the teak casing on the compression post and jabbed the wood underneath with a screwdriver and found this

The top few inches is dry, but rotten. Strangely there is no sign of sagging around the mast step.

Can I just chainsaw off the top 6 inches and epoxy on another block? Or even just fill with thickened epoxy? Or should I replace the whole shebang?

 

[Bill-Rangatira]

replace the whole piece
i have never seen a boat with teak casing around compression post usually it is solid teak
you might not see sag at the mast step it could be the whole deck is flexed
annother viable option is a metal post with the casing over it

 

[Minnewaska]

Makes me wonder if it's the original post. Easily researched for a Hunter 36, along with proper specs. I would replace it.

 

[Ajax_MD]

I've recently been checking out my compression post.

1. Is the doorway adjacent to the post out of alignment? This indicates sagging.
2. Is the cabin top dished in? (I'm guessing not, or you would have mentioned it)

I don't see why you couldn't un-step the mast, jack up the cabin top, trim off the bad section and epoxy some West System G10 plating to the top of it. Before you do that, ensure that the post is still straight by running a carpenter's square up and down the 3 accessible faces of the post to make sure it isn't warped or bent.

The G10 will never rot or corrode, and should protect the top of the post.

 

[Minnewaska]

....The G10 will never rot or corrode, and should protect the top of the post.

That's true, but it could rot just below it again, like it did just below the coachtop. I would want to know if the current post is what is supposed to be there. It may not be the proper material. The pics are hard to decipher, but they look like laminated separate boards.

 

[Ajax_MD]

That's true, but it could rot just below it again, like it did just below the coachtop. I would want to know if the current post is what is supposed to be there. It may not be the proper material. The pics are hard to decipher, but they look like laminated separate boards.

Unless he's planning on making an entire compression post of G10, any other material will eventually degrade. Even aluminum turns to white powder in the bilge after 30 years.

How old is this guy's boat? I'll bet it's 20-30 years old. It took 43 years for the foot of my compression post to go soft, and it's been sitting in the bilge all that time. You do realize that we are pushing these boats far beyond the lifespan intended by their builders? If the post rots again in 25 years, the age of the boat will be 40-50 years old.

Stop letting "perfect" be the enemy of "good enough".

 

[Skipper Jer]

Nothing wrong with replacing the top 6 inches of the post as long as the rest of the post is sound. Is the bulkhead attached to the post? Check the deck under the mast for rot. And find out where the water entered to start the rot process.

 

[Minnewaska]

Seem to be missing the point. No trouble with putting a cap on that post, if it's the correct post to begin with. If it's made from improper materials, perhaps not the original, it may rot again prematurely.

This should not be hard to figure out, but if I couldn't, I would replace the whole thing.

 

[TQA]

Cmon do a proper job replace the whole thing.

All the suggestions with epoxy / top 6 inches / G10 etc ignore the very considerable forces on the compression post. Anything which could encourage it to get out of column is a BAD IDEA.

As I said do a proper job and you won't have to worry the next time you are banging away to windward with everything strapped in tight and you come off a big wave into a hole.

 

[Ajax_MD]

G10 doesn't ignore the forces on the post. I selected precisely because it resists compression so well, plus it offers a strong bond to the wood post with epoxy.

A replacement teak post would be very expensive, and the exposed head of the post is what might start to rot again. A G10 head cap will not.

 

[Minnewaska]

What if what's there now is laminated 2x6 white pine boards?

 

[alctel]

Hi guys

As far as I can tell this is the original post.

There was water intrusion through the mast wiring due to some crappy wiring job that was sealed incorrectly (which I am fixing). The mast step and ceiling is solid fibreglass, which is probably why no flexing. An inch of plywood bulkhead next to the post is buckled by 1/8 of an inch, and is also water damaged, the rest of the bulkhead seems ok though.

I think I am going to find a carpenter today and get a replica made, I've pulled the whole thing off

 

[Minnewaska]

Hi guys

As far as I can tell this is the original post.

It could be. Why not check with Hunter, before you have a replica made.

 

[Ajax_MD]

What if what's there now is laminated 2x6 white pine boards?

Now THAT, I would replace completely. I'd be really surprised if even Hunter stooped that low, though.

 

[rugosa]

Not too clear in the pictures but it looks like pine, definitely not like teak. With the visible rot there could be invisible also. Replace it, small price for structural integrity and peace of mind.

 

[Minnewaska]

Now THAT, I would replace completely. I'd be really surprised if even Hunter stooped that low, though.

Right, I've been asking whether it was actually the original all along.

 

[mike dryver]

That's fir, nice and light, and fairly rot resistant, but not when enclosed, like it was, and lack of air circ. Should not cost more than 20-25 bucks at a lumber yard for a nice piece of clear 4x4. When you do put it back if nothing else, before you epoxy coat the top, with a penetrating epoxy, or at the very least soak it with varnish, to seal the end grain.

 

[Skipper Jer]

Think I'd be looking at white oak as a replacement. Laminate multiple boards to get the proper thickness.

 

[Ajax_MD]

I agree with white oak. Even white oak isn't what it was, years ago.
Can't you buy a solid post big enough though? Instead of laminating smaller boards together.

 

[alctel]

I got a new one made out of fir. Should last a good long time, now I've fixed the leak.