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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

We are towing Guenevere our Nor'Sea 27, with our 2014 Pacific trailer.

We are out of the storage yard and about half way to Tampa, from the Phoenix area. BUT...... Day before yesterday we had a break fire on the trailer. :eek::eek:

I caught it very fast, and with quick action by Jill and I, we had no damage to tires or boat. We are now waiting on parts for a fix. I posted a Youtube video on our page
so you can see some of the stuff.

Today, I JUST got back to the hotel room from working on the trailer. Still got greasy hands....

The two calipers on the right side were burnt. NO, ZIP, NADA pads left in them! Warn down to the metal plates.

I had the mech bring 4 new ones. If the right 2 were bad, how good could the left ones be. I now have 2 spare calipers with GOOD almost new pads in them! Now how can that happen?????

So, then we go to bleed the breaks. I hook my vacuum pump and can NOT get any fluid to flow to the calipers. SOOOoooo I use a big breaker bar to try to compress the surge box hitch. Will not move. So, we take out the bolts and it frees up. We put the bolts back in and re-mount it. I then try the vacuum again, no joy. I try compressing the surge piston a few times and NO fluid coming out of the calipers!

We removed the surge box, and when I took the break line off of the backup solenoid I got NO leakage at all!!

I had the mech take the surge box back to the trailer place in San Antonio (tomorrow AM) for a check and fix.

We still have a bit over 1,000 miles to go and I want it all working!!

What an adventure..................

Greg
 

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Thanks be to Poseidon (although he may have been a bit out of his neighborhood in Central Tejas ;))

Great that you caught this one when you did -- the outcome could have been catastrophic. You may also want to check to make sure you've haven't got a blockage in the lines while you've got it apart.

Keeping my fingers crossed for you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks be to Poseidon (although he may have been a bit out of his neighborhood in Central Tejas ;))

Great that you caught this one when you did -- the outcome could have been catastrophic. You may also want to check to make sure you've haven't got a blockage in the lines while you've got it apart.

Keeping my fingers crossed for you!
THANKS for the thought. I do plan to blow out the lines first thing tomorrow AM. Surge coupler is on the way to the shop for review.

Greg
 

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Ah! Brings back memories.

Years ago I, my wife, and our 1-year-old daughter were moving from Orlando, FL to Raleigh, NC and towing our San Juan 23 up there. Just outside of Brunswick, GA I looked in the rear-view and saw smoke coming from one of the trailer wheels. In our case, it was a toasted bearing.

This was about 9am on a Sunday morning. We limped into the parking lot of a local NAPA auto parts store where an extremely helpful young fellow assisted us in finding the right size bearings for the axle, then lent us some tools (and even lent a hand) to change out the bad ones, and grease all the rest. He turned me into a regular NAPA customer.

Learned my lesson on that trip. Ever since I have been quite diligent about the bearings in all of my trailers.

That trailer also had surge brakes. Never worked very well. Since then I have always preferred electric brakes on trailers that needed brakes.
 

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Been there . . . almost. Pulled up to the parking lot to set up. Go out of the truck and walked back past the trailer. When I did, I heard grease boiling and spitting out of the bearings. So I dumped water all over everything to cool it down, then set up and got her in the water. Repairs could wait. On the way back I stopped every few miles and checked for heat. Only had to douse a couple of times. Next week, I had a whole new system on order.
 

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Greg-
Did you buy the trailer new? Or used?

Was the brake fluid flushed--totally replaced--less than two years ago? And did you test the brake fluid this year?

Conventional brake fluids (all but DOT 5) normally absorb moisture from the air, which rusts out metal parts such as brake cylinders. Then they stick and jam, so one drag can be dragging and wearing while the other is just fine.

Dirt in the system can also damage seals and moving parts, in theory there is none. In practice...lots of PO's do bad things to their brakes.

For about $25 you can buy an electronic brake fluid "test pen" on Amazon, which allows you to test the moisture content instead of randomly replacing the fluid every second year. And it won't hurt to make sure the brake assembly is thoroughly washed when you wash the trailer down, to help sure pistons, etc. aren't jamming from crud. There's also "high temperature brake grease" of various kinds that is supposed to be applied--carefully--in specific right places.

The amazing thing is, how many brake systems continue to perform flawlessly, despite the total neglect most of them get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Greg-
Did you buy the trailer new? Or used?

Was the brake fluid flushed--totally replaced--less than two years ago? And did you test the brake fluid this year?

Conventional brake fluids (all but DOT 5) normally absorb moisture from the air, which rusts out metal parts such as brake cylinders. Then they stick and jam, so one drag can be dragging and wearing while the other is just fine.

Dirt in the system can also damage seals and moving parts, in theory there is none. In practice...lots of PO's do bad things to their brakes.

For about $25 you can buy an electronic brake fluid "test pen" on Amazon, which allows you to test the moisture content instead of randomly replacing the fluid every second year. And it won't hurt to make sure the brake assembly is thoroughly washed when you wash the trailer down, to help sure pistons, etc. aren't jamming from crud. There's also "high temperature brake grease" of various kinds that is supposed to be applied--carefully--in specific right places.

The amazing thing is, how many brake systems continue to perform flawlessly, despite the total neglect most of them get.
Hello,

I bought the trailer new back in 2012.And I did replace the fluid about once every 2 years. Last time was a few weeks before we started this trip.

THANKS for the pointer to the test pen!!! I just put one in my Amazon cart! Can't get it till we land some place for a time.

I did have grease on it from bleeding the breaks with a vacuum that I should have cleaned off better.

Greg
 

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Greg, don't worry about delivery. If you have an AIS transponder on, the drones can find you.(G)

Grease or brake fluid residue wouldn't be bad, except it picks up dirt and that can jam things. While you're on Amazon look for a "Motive Products Power Bleeder" they beat all hell out of the vacuum crap. It is a bottle, like an insect repellant or fertilizer pump spray, that connects to the brake fluid supply, the master cylinder, and forces new fluid into the system from the top. Works much better, can't create bubbles, hard to find at a discount anywhere (sometimes ebay) and AFAIK the only folks still making them.

But if you ever try using it, you'll wonder how many hours of crawling around under cars it could have saved you.

More Obscure Good Stuff.(G)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: Trailer brake fire! - Recap

If you have not read the thread from the start, I have a 2012
Pacific, 3 axle boat trailer with surge disk breaks on the forward 2 axles. I use this trailer to tow our Nor'Sea 27 sail boat that has a spec of something like 8,600 pounds dry. With gear and fuel aboard I am sure I am a bit over this. BUT, I do drain the fresh water tanks before a tow.

I used the trailer to tow from Guaymas Mexico to the Phoenix Az. Area.
We then towed to and from the Napa Valley for a cruise.
We then towed to New Orleans for a cruise over to Pensacola Fl. And back to Az.

we were towing from the Phoenix area to the Tampa area. A longer trip, but no mountains to cross.

During the week before we departed I checked all tire pressures and we did a complete change of break fluid. This was the 3rd change of fluid. I used a hand vacuum pump to draw the fluid through the system into a quart jar at the break caliper. In doing this, you are advised to use a heavy coat of thick grease around the base of the bleeder fitting in order to block any air from entering the bleeder fitting. I used a bit of grease I had at hand. It was a winch grease. In retrospect this may have added to my problem as it is not a "high temp" type grease. I also did not thoroughly clean all the grease away.

When we first hooked up to the trailer in the storage yard, I did a check of each tire/wheel/brake to look for problems. I used my bare hand to check for any leaks.

After the first 5, then again at 25 +/- miles we stopped and I again checked all components of the system. I felt each bearing to insure I could hold on to it with NO discomfort from heat build up. I found no leaks and checked each disk for even wear. I checked each tire for proper pressure.
NOTE; the tires say to fill to 60 PSI when cold. After running for about an hour at 55~60 MPH, then checking the tire pressure (mid 70's F day), the pressure was up to almost 70~75 PSI. So I removed enough air to bring them all to 55 PSI when cold, the start of the second day.

NOTE: Time & Mile data is from our towing log book.

At the first fill up of the second day, (1007 AM, mile 273355) the right front tire was a bit low. I decided I may have blundered during the morning fill, so added air to get back to 55 PSI. I decided that if it showed low on the next fill up, I would change it out for one of the spares I have along. It did NOT make it to the next fill. I was looking in the mirror just as it parted! (1430 PM mile 273577) So we pulled over and I put on the spares. YES, I used my torque wrench. I know it may not be recently calibrated, but I am no longer working on aircraft or spacecraft. I did a check of all the other items but do not remember anything amiss. We made one more fuel stop that day and everything checked good.

The next AM (0815 mile 273711) did a pre-launch check and all was good, including air pressure and break fluid.

At 11:07 AM, mile 273821 we did a fuel stop and I did my all around touch & feel and ALL checked good.

At approx. 1:40 mile 273927 the brake fire took place. It was the right front caliper ONLY. Once more I was glad I was watching closely! Jill manned a pump water sprayer we keep handy for any need and kept the flames down as I got the fire bottle out. 2 quick squirts and it was out. NO damage to any other parts of the trailer or boat. Not even the brake lines were damaged.

The fire took place after we were in a long line of stop & go traffic. It was maybe half an hour of this and we were just getting back up to speed.

I called Boat US as we have a tow policy with them and it says it covers trailer assistance also! WE LOVE IT!!!!!! I may be a member for life!

Our boat on our trailer is about 12. 5 feet off the ground, so they could not find any assistance that could put our system on a trailer and still go under any overpasses. They found a mobile mechanic to come out to assist us. Once he arrived, he removed both right calipers. The aft one had maybe 10~12 % of the pad remaining. It showed a lot of heat, but no fire. The forward one had 0 % pad remaining. It was down to the metal backing plate. The two on the left had 85~90 % remaining, almost like new??

With the lines tied up, and no brakes on the trailer we went back about 5 ~ 10 miles to the only hotel we could get a spot in. WHO knew all the rooms fill up so fast in mid Texas??

The mechanic took the 2 calipers back to his shop and started a search for replacements. I talked to them on the phone and requested that if he found them, get 4. I wanted to replace them ALL as we were 45 miles shy of half way to Tampa.

The mec found the parts and installed all 4. When we (YES I WAS HELPING ALL THE TIME!) tried/// to bleed the system, we could not get any fluid through it! So, we removed the surge box and it was taken to Magnum Trailers. As we were disconnected any way, we drove to Magnum and went over the box with the mechanic there. We decided to go ahead and replace the master cylinder (a $45 part) and as long as it was open, change out the solenoid shutoff also. We then took it back, attached it to the trailer and...... and....... and.... the brake line would NOT snug up on the solenoid! I called and suggested I tow the 25 miles to the shop. The next day, I did a white knuckle no trailer brake drive. Turns out there are 2 solenoids that can fit, but each has a different output fitting. That difference is almost invisible to the human eye!

They changed out the wrong one, put on a power bleeder and pumped about a quart of DOT 3 through the system! It was now working as new, as MOST of it was NEW!!!

The rest of the trip, I made about 55 to 60 MPH and stopped every 100 miles or so, doing the same checks. We are now in the Tampa area and getting ready to splash for some sailing. As a note, At each fuel stop I check the MPG and it remained about the same before and after the caliper change.

SOOOOO, WHAT HAPPENED? I talked to each of the people we worked with. NONE had a definitive cause that could be verified. But the trailer mec said he felt that I "might" have had a small air bubble in the caliper that burned. As that system heated during the stop & go the bubble heated and expanded to lock that one???
That plus my use of less than high temp grease and not cleaning it ALL off could have added to the problem.

At this point, I do not know for sure. But I can say, that thanks to some good input from this and other forums, before I do another long tow, I plan to purchase the following;
1. A brake fluid test pen. It checks for water in the system and gives a positive feedback.
2. A power brake bleeder kit.
3. A system to remotely read the tire PSI & temp.

One last item, we talked to a couple of people who deal in trailers. NOT in trailer tires. They said that if your tires are over 5 years old, EVEN if they have not rolled 5 feet on a highway, REPLACE THEM. NOT my word, info for you to use as you see fit.

Hope this helps some one to avoid the problems I had.

Greg
 

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Are there some sort of check valves in the trailer brake system? Wouldn't an expanding air bubble (due to heat) apply pressure to all the calipers instead of just the one that burnt?

I've heard of sticky brakes on cars, think Car Talk on public radio, but can't recall if a reason for sticky brakes was ever given. Ahh...google....one reason...deteriorating rubber brake hoses.

Greg, did the rubber brake lines get replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Are there some sort of check valves in the trailer brake system? Wouldn't an expanding air bubble (due to heat) apply pressure to all the calipers instead of just the one that burnt?

I've heard of sticky brakes on cars, think Car Talk on public radio, but can't recall if a reason for sticky brakes was ever given. Ahh...google....one reason...deteriorating rubber brake hoses.

Greg, did the rubber brake lines get replaced?
Capt,

Each one checked out good, BUT, they are next on my list for replacement!

Greg
 

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Capt,

Each one checked out good, BUT, they are next on my list for replacement!

Greg
Already?

I would not have thought it would be needed for a trailer that's only a few years old. I'm starting to think I need to check all my lines anyway. Since finding out the trailer uses break fluid, then finding out the fill reservoir was dry, replacing the lines might be in order soon. Plus my trailer, I think, is a bit older, but I'll have to check the paperwork. From what I've seen, the lines don't really cost all that much.

The power bleeder you mention may be put on the shopping list soon. Lots of good info, Thanks Greg.
 

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· Daniel - Norsea 27
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I've used a mityvac vacuum pump kit with good success for about ten years. Works a treat. Simple. No power. Hand pump. Tubing. Hose. Vacuum gauge.

Mityvac Offers Two New Automotive Test & Bleed Kits
I got one of those at the local autozone this past weekend. I wasn't sure if I was using it right as it seemed to only suck up air and only a little bit of fluid. I almost seemed to get better luck getting fluid through the system from manually pumping from the actuator. I was going to give it another try soon with the vacuum pump. The tubes wanted to maintain their shape from the packaging and didn't want to play nice. I also stripped a bleeder valve so waiting for a replacement on that too. :rolleyes:
 

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My mityvac pump draws a vacuum quickly. Hose connections have to be leak free. I use an eight oz jelly jar for the brake fluid reservoir, which I keep full enough to continuously cover the bitter end of the discharge hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've used a mityvac vacuum pump kit with good success for about ten years. Works a treat. Simple. No power. Hand pump. Tubing. Hose. Vacuum gauge.

Mityvac Offers Two New Automotive Test & Bleed Kits
THAT, is the system I was using, but I added a quart "BALL" jelly jar in it. One hose from the break bleeder fitting to the jar, and sealed with silicone. Then one hose from the jar to the vacuum pump. I used it 3 times to change the fluid out each time. The last time, just before this trip.

The trick was that unless I used thick grease on the threaded part of the bleeder fitting, it would draw air as well as fluid into the bleed line. I read about it some place on the net. Once grease was sealing the threads, it was working OK. I could tell when no more air was in the system.

BUT, not having to put that grease on the fitting, and making sure to clean it off VERY well makes it a bit harder to use. :(

I AM going with the power bleeder (after seeing one work) as I think it's a far better way to go. It's a positive system, and the cost is not all that high. :)

Greg
 

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Caliper pistons do not "retract" How they clear the rotors is by "runout" other wise known as play in the bearings. (cars) I had a brake fiire on my car Scared the life out of me! The fluid flashed into a millisecond fireball!

When calipers sit for long periods of times they tend to lock. usually it only takes a good sideways turn to push the pistons back enough to clear the rotor, but not always. I'm sure it's worse on trailers.

I'm slightly familiar with the surge brake setups, my Hunter 23 had them. NOT a very inspiring design!
 

· Daniel - Norsea 27
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The threads might be why I'm sucking air instead of fluid. I'll have to find something to seal the threads.

Thanks.

THAT, is the system I was using, but I added a quart "BALL" jelly jar in it. One hose from the break bleeder fitting to the jar, and sealed with silicone. Then one hose from the jar to the vacuum pump. I used it 3 times to change the fluid out each time. The last time, just before this trip.

The trick was that unless I used thick grease on the threaded part of the bleeder fitting, it would draw air as well as fluid into the bleed line. I read about it some place on the net. Once grease was sealing the threads, it was working OK. I could tell when no more air was in the system.

BUT, not having to put that grease on the fitting, and making sure to clean it off VERY well makes it a bit harder to use. :(

I AM going with the power bleeder (after seeing one work) as I think it's a far better way to go. It's a positive system, and the cost is not all that high. :)

Greg
 
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