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Clean up goes a lot faster than you think. Just pull everything out, attack it with a pressure washer, then vacuum up all the muddy water. Once you get the thing clean, polish it up so it stays cleaner and makes it harder on the wasps in the future.


Just got done polishing and waxing mine next weekend. Cushions go back in this coming weekend.

What engine do you have? It happens that Stagg has 1 each of the more common engine options as a spare, both a complete Balwin Saildrive as well as an extra YSB-8 Yanmar.

I have some various cabinet doors, a spare keel winch assembly and some other small parts here and there.

The VBerth cushions you can either get made up custom or per Stagg's findings, you can substitute the V Berth cushions out of a much more common Catalina 25.
 

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It's some work... I pulled mine out this season to do some overhaul so I know by experience.

First pull the starter and alternator to give yourself some maneuver room.

Unplug the everything (it's all pretty obvious)

Disconnect the drive shaft, use the opportunity to remove the shaft and renew the cutless bearing.



Engine comes out into the aft cabin then can be lifted straight up and out.

Mine was a mess mostly because the previous owner had ran the engine for some time with a broken exhaust elbow which resulted in a sooty messy engine bay,



Engine bay when I got the engine out



Cleaned up and with a fresh coat of seafoam green paint (my inner armored vehicle crewman peeking out)

All of that said, I would first just try rotating it and see if it moves. If it does, clean the fuel system and it will most likely just fire up and run. The YSE is a tank of an engine.
 

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Not too bad Lot of clean up but a weekends worth of work would put you quite far down the road.

You have a "deluxe" version boat with the snazzier interior and the diesel (of course). In addition, you have a fridge which is pretty cool as well. My boat has the same marine head you have but mine is situated midships in the location where your fridge is.



My head, same unit you have but the black water tank is located behind the head in the locker under the quarter berth. Your head will be much easier to use since mine is kind of packed up in normal use. Mine has a bit more floor space in the aft cabin. Yours is likely the better layout if you plan to use the head much.

The exterior wood will clean up just fine. Mine was exactly the same to start with.
 

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Correct.

The keel itself if cast iron with a faired section up forward. Just go down there and chisel all the jacked up stuff out, make a new foam block to match and glass over. Best if you can drop the swing keel but you could probably work around it. In the short term, clear all that damaged stuff off, it's mostly fairing, make sure all the important parts are ok.

The spreader boots and rigger tape are normal maintenance items, don't sweat them.
 

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Towguy is right, I would look at the engine only slightly after getting a base clean up so you have a deck to stand on rather than a wasp graveyard.


If you look in the locker under the starboard side aft cabin berth you will see an access hatch that the Parker Yachts people were nice enough to add. Remove it and you have good access to the head as well as all the mounts and such on this side. See that little lever on the valve cover? That's a compression release. It's not hooked to anything on our boats since we have electric start but if you actuate it you should be able to rotate the engine with not too much effort.

If it rotates, it will almost certainly run. Change oil, drain the fuel, rinse out all the fuel lines, change filters, bleed the system and it should fire up nearly instantly. I don't think my YSE has ever needed more than 2 rotations to start.

If it works, then decision time.

You know you better than we know you. If you prefer everything tidy and nice then spending a day plucking it out and a weekend scrubbing everything up before putting it all back would give you a much more satisfactory diesel engine owning experience. I only mention this because my YSE was the embarrassing ugly aunt that lived in the basement on my boat for 2 years before I pulled it out to work on a few problems. If I knew then how easy it was to remove and how well it would clean up, I would have done it long ago.


This is a picture of mine very early in the process before I got it "really" clean. Here I am soaking the water jacket in phosphoric acid prior to removing the cylinder liner.

If it is "bad" and you need to work on it, pull it out and tear it down, you will find that the YSE is extremely easy to work on and parts are available and reasonable price wise. If you need any of the various funky special tools, let me know I made several on my lathe to support both Stagg and I as we work on ours.


Low clearance injector removal tool. I pulled my engine mostly to get a stuck injector out which I did with a slide hammer. Obviously the angle and location of the injector meant that a slide hammer would not work with the engine installed so I made this fella to pluck the injectors out within the confines of the space we have on the Dawson.





This is my take at building a cylinder liner plucker for Stagg. I pulled mine with a brass drift and an air hammer in about 1.1 seconds. Stagg doesn't have air tools so a puller will be easier on him.
 

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If there is wood in the rudder consider it a pattern for making a new one but nothing else.

Most of the other ones I have seen seem to have a Airex foam core. If it's foam core you should be able to dry out the local area and just repair it, The spot where your crack is isn't a particularly high load location.



Staggs rudder snapped in half for convenient core inspection. (result from the previous owners poor repair well masked) I do not recommend going this far to determine what the core is made of but you could poke a drill bit into it and see pretty easily.
 

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Krisscross is exactly right.
Get the basics fixed then plunk it into the water. That's what we did on both my and Staggs boats. Not only does this allow you to confirm that you like the boat you are working on but it is generally MUCH more pleasant to work on a boat that is surrounded by water since the climate in the boat is usually much more mild, there is a convenient supply of water right at hand for rinsing things with and you can jump in for a swim when you get hot and tired.

Plus the boat is happier... It really is...
 

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Might as well at least look a them first, if they are in decent shape, reuse.

Do make sure that they have proper seacocks not gate valves on them as mine did for the sink drain through hull.
 

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Oxy clean and a brush will knock much of the tough stuff off and help kill off any living mold/mildew etc.

Before you paint, read MaineSails thread on compound and polish. Mine looked no better than yours at first and it shines like a new nickle now. I was particularly impressed at what the little 3 inch Groits polisher with the correcting foam pads did over the deck non-skid. Really got the last of the residual goo out of there quite well.
 

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Excellent!

It does take a moment for the water to get through the system and in particular to fill first the fairly substantial water jacket then the water lift muffler. Aside from that, the YSE (as well as the 1GM and all the other little Yanmar diesels) doesn't really send out huge amounts of water. When I tested mine, I took the water pump belt off and spun the pump for a moment with a little Dewalt impact to get everything going. Honestly I only did that because my engine is out and all that sort of stuff is easy to get to.
 

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If you run it dry you would need to replace the impeller.

If you pull the pump, you should replace the impeller.

So... I say, run it for a bit longer than you currently are and see what it does.

Like I said, these things don't pump massive volumes of water. If you look at this vid of mine running on the test stand you'll see what I mean:

https://flic.kr/p/40367930185
Keep in mind that in your case, you also need to fill the water lift muffler before anything really starts coming out the back so I would suspect it to take a little time before much comes out the end.
 

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A few notes based upon having knocked apart 3 of these engines in the last 2 months...


On the starboard side of the water jacket which is the big piece the lifting ring is attached to, you will see one of these. Take it out and check/replace the Zinc! My motor had zincs in it and as such stayed fairly clean and uncorroded inside. The two YSBs that Stagg got had quite a bit of corrosion in there. Good news is there is a LOT of block down there so it wasn't anything that was going to add up to problems other than just filling the water jacket down by the cylinder full of debris which obviously is not as good at cooling things as water.

If your Zinc is depleted or missing, don't freak out, just replace it and plan to take the cover off and get everything cleaned out real good prior to doing any significant motoring. That's pretty much as simple as taking it off and flushing it out till water flows clean and clear from the drain spigot on the bottom of the head.



Have a good critical look at your engine mounts. Several of mine had detached at the bottom and looked good but were not. Changing mounts with the motor in actually would not be too hard.


Both of Staggs alternators looked kind of scrabbidy. Both checked out fine electrically but had pretty stiff and squeeky bearings that needed to be replaced. You might pull your alternator belt loose and give it a spin to make sure that they have not gone evil in their old age. I will try to put up a photo tutorial post in the next few days on how to replace bearings in these, it's pretty easy.
 
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