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Oh boy... that is quite a project... :|
But on the positive note: I'm impressed how well the flare gun and flares look after all these years. Must have been a great storage box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'm a little concerned about the rudder, it looks like water has got in where the fiberglass cracked and the wood is pretty soft just underneath it. My original plan was just to sand down the rudder and put another layer of fiberglass on it, do you folks think I should have any concerns over the structural integrity of this rudder?

 

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My dad said he did some sort of preservative measure to the engine that he can't quite recall, but I'm not sure where to even start before checking out the engine... I guess trying to get the engine out would be a good first step. I have a feeling that isn't going to be a one person job.
Those old diesels will surprise you. It might start right up if theres no water in it.
 

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If there is wood in the rudder consider it a pattern for making a new one but nothing else.

Most of the other ones I have seen seem to have a Airex foam core. If it's foam core you should be able to dry out the local area and just repair it, The spot where your crack is isn't a particularly high load location.



Staggs rudder snapped in half for convenient core inspection. (result from the previous owners poor repair well masked) I do not recommend going this far to determine what the core is made of but you could poke a drill bit into it and see pretty easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
There's a good possibility that I've mistaken dense foam with "spongy" wood. My guess is you're right and it's not a big deal.
 

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I'm a little concerned about the rudder, it looks like water has got in where the fiberglass cracked and the wood is pretty soft just underneath it. My original plan was just to sand down the rudder and put another layer of fiberglass on it, do you folks think I should have any concerns over the structural integrity of this rudder?
If it was me, I would get the boat fixed up in only the most basic sense, to see how I like the way it sails and functions as a cruising pad. If you try to fix everything to near Bristol condition, it will take a lot of time, money, and effort, and in the end you might still not like the boat. If later you decide to keep it, you can improve the jobs you have already done. And if you decide to sell it, you will lose much less of your investment. I have restored a few boats over the years so this is not just pulling ideas out of my armpit.
 

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Krisscross is exactly right.
Get the basics fixed then plunk it into the water. That's what we did on both my and Staggs boats. Not only does this allow you to confirm that you like the boat you are working on but it is generally MUCH more pleasant to work on a boat that is surrounded by water since the climate in the boat is usually much more mild, there is a convenient supply of water right at hand for rinsing things with and you can jump in for a swim when you get hot and tired.

Plus the boat is happier... It really is...
 

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I'm a little concerned about the rudder, it looks like water has got in where the fiberglass cracked and the wood is pretty soft just underneath it. My original plan was just to sand down the rudder and put another layer of fiberglass on it, do you folks think I should have any concerns over the structural integrity of this rudder?

That rudder kinda looks like the same problem my c/l 16 had when I first got it,I just glued and clamped and sealed it up good,,,,,,sheared off at the water line first trip out,in about 14 mph winds,my son was not impressed,but we learnt to steer without a rudder!!.....Ralph
 

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Slanter,
I do not know of any lifts anywhere near to us. I used a hoist frame to lift the boat off the trailer to work on the swing keel. Do a web search and you will see there are a number of ways to safely get your boat off the trailer.

Mitch
 

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Hey, Happy to see the PD, aka Midship 25 keeps going. I owned one for over 10 years and have sailed her offshore in 30 foot seas. One of the best boat I have ever owned. Well worth taking your time and rebuilding. I am located on the east coast in the Cape Cod area. Any questions, I'd be happy to try and help.
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Krisscross is exactly right.
Get the basics fixed then plunk it into the water. That's what we did on both my and Staggs boats. Not only does this allow you to confirm that you like the boat you are working on but it is generally MUCH more pleasant to work on a boat that is surrounded by water since the climate in the boat is usually much more mild, there is a convenient supply of water right at hand for rinsing things with and you can jump in for a swim when you get hot and tired.

Plus the boat is happier... It really is...
Hmm... I suppose I should just let it float and see what happens. As far as I can see there's nothing wrong with it that should stop it from floating and sailing, at least on medium-sized-but-somewhat-shallow Moses Lake.

Dad took our a couple of the through-hulls before he stored it. I'm guessing I should probably order some new through-hulls instead of using the ones that dad took out 20 years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I saw the valve under the sink, it definitely looks like a gate valve.

Today me and a couple friends spent about an hour and a half pressure washing the deck today, definitely looking better. Could probably use a new coat of paint both topside and the hull, but that's pretty low on my priorities.

Before



after



It's not mind blowing, but it's progress. The residual dirt and lichen i'm probably going to have to go over with a brush.
 

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Oxy clean and a brush will knock much of the tough stuff off and help kill off any living mold/mildew etc.

Before you paint, read MaineSails thread on compound and polish. Mine looked no better than yours at first and it shines like a new nickle now. I was particularly impressed at what the little 3 inch Groits polisher with the correcting foam pads did over the deck non-skid. Really got the last of the residual goo out of there quite well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Small update. It's been somewhat slow going, but a few accomplishments. Got the engine running! Thanks to Aswayze help it's running... Remarkably well for not being run for 20 years. unfortunately only exhaust and no water is coming out even though the intake is in a small reservoir. The pump turns, but no water. So time to check the impeller and hoses for blockage.

Most of the electronics seem to be working as well, that I could test at least. As soon as I get the engine figured out time for a float!
 

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Excellent!

It does take a moment for the water to get through the system and in particular to fill first the fairly substantial water jacket then the water lift muffler. Aside from that, the YSE (as well as the 1GM and all the other little Yanmar diesels) doesn't really send out huge amounts of water. When I tested mine, I took the water pump belt off and spun the pump for a moment with a little Dewalt impact to get everything going. Honestly I only did that because my engine is out and all that sort of stuff is easy to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I had the intake hose in a 3 gallon jug of water and I ran the engine about three times for about 10 to 15 seconds each and I don't see any indication that it sucked any of the water out of that jug. I should have pictures of the inside of that pump in the next few days.
 

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I had the intake hose in a 3 gallon jug of water and I ran the engine about three times for about 10 to 15 seconds each and I don't see any indication that it sucked any of the water out of that jug. I should have pictures of the inside of that pump in the next few days.
Did you replace the impeller beforehand?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Did you replace the impeller beforehand?
I have no idea how long it's been since the impeller was replaced, I know that must have worked last time it was in the water since my dad said they motored around quite a bit when they used it last. As Aswayze pointed out to me, the raw water intake has no filter, just the grating on the outside of the thru-hull to block any big bits from getting into the impeller, so for all I know the impeller might have been shredded by chunky bits.
 
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