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Type of oil used for diesel engine

10016 Views 16 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Dumah
The owners manual for my Yanmar 2ym15 engine says to use 10w30 oil. Can I use standard automotive oil, or do I need a special oil for diesel/marine applications?
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Use a C rated oil not an S rated. C rated oils are for diesel S are for gas.
Use a C rated oil not an S rated. C rated oils are for diesel S are for gas.
Thanks for the info. Where can I get C rated oil, and what brand do you recommend?
Matt
Wal*Mart sells both DElO 400 and Rotella T though mostly in 15W-40 which is the oil most used in diesels..
MS - I'd be interested in your thoughts on the Synthetic oils and boat diesels.
Faster- I hope MS or someone else gives some info. on the synthetics also. My experience with diesels is that unless you start using the syn's from when the engine is new it can develop a lot of leaks past crank seals etc. We put synthetic in a John Deere that had a lot of hours (several thousand) and it leaked out everywhere. We put Rotella back in and no leaks. We had another engine do the same, but it was a gas engine.
Thanks John.. I'd heard something along that line before, and have had others tell me that the synths are great and worth the extra cost. However I've been reluctant to make the switch without more info..
"Traditional" boat diesels that are naturally aspirated, do not like synthetic oils - Quite often they are designed to use grade CD which is so old that it can be hard to find.
If you use "better" oils than CC/CD, bore glazing and oil bruning may be the result.
Look on the back of the container. There'll be a circle with the grade in the middle and the service designation around the top:



Anything with a Cx listed is rated for diesel engines. Each time they revise the service designation they increment "x". CD was introduced in 1955, and has been superseded by CE, CF, CG, CH, CI and now CJ. Each oil in the sequence is an approved replacement for those before it.

If you can't find 10W30 easily with a Cx designation, look for a straight 30 weight. The 10W part means it's a winter rated multigrade oil. Since you're probably not going to be using your boat in freezing temperatures, the cold weather properties of a 10W30 aren't needed.

Tim
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My Motor is only a couple years old. I'm not sure if synthetic oil was used in the past. Is it too old to switch to synthetic if standard oil was used in the past?
Look on the back of the container. There'll be a circle with the grade in the middle and the service designation around the top:



Anything with a Cx listed is rated for diesel engines. Each time they revise the service designation they increment "x". CD was introduced in 1955, and has been superseded by CE, CF, CG, CH, CI and now CJ. Each oil in the sequence is an approved replacement for those before it.

If you can't find 10W30 easily with a Cx designation, look for a straight 30 weight. The 10W part means it's a winter rated multigrade oil. Since you're probably not going to be using your boat in freezing temperatures, the cold weather properties of a 10W30 aren't needed.

Tim
That's good to know. It looks like 10w30 is hard to find.
I've been using the Shell Rotella-T 15-40 on the recommendation of several distributes for Yanmar Engines. Their alternate recommendation was straight 30 wt. With the CF-4 ratings it provides for improved control of piston deposits and oil consumption.
Be careful of using non diesel oils due to a lack of anti scuff additives like Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate. They took it out, large reduction of the stuff, due to being hard on the catalytic converter.
you may want to read this thread that has received quite a bit of input on this topic. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/55352-oil.html
Personally I won't use synthentic oils in my engines at all, firm believer in Rotella T 15 40 only use synthentics in gearboxes and differentials, haven't had any problems with any applications, just for information purposes I even use 15 40 in my Briggs and Stratton!
It is best to stick with an oil than switch between paraffinetic and synthetic brands. Elastomers are compounded with base polimers, ie nitrile, hnbr, sbr, etc and additives, diatomic , clay, carbon black, minerals and plasticizers, oils and steric acid, waxes......and of course the catalyst or curing agent sulpher, peroxide, platinum, etc.. The elastomer will come to an equilibrium where the plasticizers are leached out of the compound and will be replaced by some of the fluid being sealed. This is most prevalent when sealing hydrocarbon fluids. If you keep the same fluid type, no issues, the elastomer is in equilibrium. If you change to a different fluid medium the elastomer can swell or shrink due to coming to equilibrium with the new fluid. Excessive swelling results in catastrophic failure of the seal, shrinkage can result in brittleness and leakage. Ammines are in a group of additives that are deliberately added to oils to control swell the seals to stop leaks. They work for a short period of time only to delay a necessary reseal cost.
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I am no expert but here is my experience I have a 1973 trawler with a 120 lehman On my first trip down the ICW about 1270 miles I had a 40weight rotella oil and used about a qt every 2 days The following year I changed to 10-40 same brand... used maybe 2 qt for the whole trip 1200 miles and 200 hrs I do not know why but those are the results
Strongly recommend 15/40 Rotella, been working in and around diesels for over 35 years, mostly marine.I feel a 30 weight oil too light.
Cheers, Dumah, Halifax
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