SailNet Community banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,472 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a Hillerange (Seaward) 2101 pressurized alcohol stove that I really like. This thread explains how I unclogged the burner. Please save the anti pressurized alcohol stove rhetoric for other threads, this is for those who have the stove and like it.

The only problem I've ever had with the stove is that one of the burners will clog occasionally, resulting in low burner output. I contacted Packstove, and followed their directions to unclog the stove without success. I sent the burners to Packstove and they fixed them, though the burners were damaged in shipment. The burners are a pain to remove, and must be shipped together, even when only one is malfunctioning. This motivated me to take it upon myself to figure out how to unclog the burner. Unclogging the burner as I describe here is much less work than removing the entire unit.

I am not trained to work on stoves, and have not been advised to do what I did. I can only say the stove works now, and that what Packstove told me to do did not work. The stove is simple. However, you should not attempt to work on the stove if you don't have a reasonable amount of mechanical ability and understand how the stove works. After reassembly, pressurize the stove and check for leaks. If there are leaks, fix them BEFORE lighting the stove. If in doubt, NO NOT LIGHT THE BURNER! The only fuel that should be evident is the fuel that primes the wick when, AND ONLY WHEN, you turn the knob. You should have full control of any fuel distribution using the knob.

1. Depressurize the stove. Hopefully, you have a inline valve near the stove that does this, rather than depressurizing the tank. If not, I think you should.
2. Remove packing nut.. (#14 in diagram below)
3. Unscrew and remove the needle valve #10 (by turning knobs counter clockwise). Clean needle valve.
4. Remove front panel from stove (the vertical piece the needle valves run through, with the Hillerange name on it) by removing 7 sheet metal screws. Panel consists of 3 parts. You may find a lot of gunk under the panel, so be prepared to clean the stainless while you have the panel removed. (see step 5 before doing step 4)
5. Remove the two screws (#21) that join the needle valve body to the burner burner body. If you can do this without removing the front panel (I couldn't), you can skip step 4.
6. Remove the two screws (#20) on top of the burner.
7. Remove burner body.
8. Take a fine piece of wire (I untwisted a piece of stranded copper wire and used one strand) and put it in the orifice (#18) to unplug it. Packstove told me to do this from the needle valve side, but I could never find the hole. It's now obvious why! I've included a picture with the wire in the orifice with me pointing to it. Looking at the diagram, it now occurs to me that I could have possibly removed the piece that has the orifice (they call the whole piece the orifice). If so, this would be a better option, as you wouldn't be pushing whatever clogged the stove upstream.
9. Reassemble the burner, needle valve and packing nut. Only tighten the packing nut enough to stop leaks. Pressurize and test the burner before replacing the front panel. Again, check for leaks BEFORE lighting. The only thing getting wet should be the wick. If you over wet the wick while testing, let the fuel evaporate, and prime properly before lighting.

I've never needed them, but I always have a pot of water and fire extinguisher handy when I've worked on the stove. Water will douse a alcohol fire.

I can't convert the Adobe file of the Hillerange diagram to upload for some reason. PM me and I'll send it to you. If you have the stove, it will be handy to have. If someone can tell me how to upload it, please do.
 

Attachments

1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top