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Bombay Explorer 44
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Discussion Starter #1
Batteries are 6 Trojan T 105s configured to give 675 ah at 12 volts.

Generally I rely on solar to keep my bank charged.

Bu when the sun don't shine I have a Honda 1000 genny feeding a 40 amp battery charger, a STATPOWER TRUECHARGE 40.

My issue is that even with bank well down say 12.2 volts I never see 40 amps in fact I only see 20 amps for a minute or two then it drops back to 10 amps. It is connected directly to the bank. I have tried every combination of switches but nothing does much better.

Is this normal for this charger if not any ideas?
 

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It could be a bad battery. Charge the batteries for a while and then test each one individually with a load tester. Available at most automotive stores. A cheap one will do. No need to disconnect anything. Just attach the tester leads to a battery, hit the test switch, record the results, go to the next battery. You are really looking for one or two batteries that are lower than the rest.

The battery leads need to be big, clean and tight.
 

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Have the batteries tested, ideally a full 20-hour load test if more than a couple years old.

Also the charger, on a known-good large batt depleted to 50%. But to be honest, your charger should be capable of delivering 80-120A, and allow you to set Amps and Volts as needed.

Sterling ProCharge Ultra*and ProMariner Pronautic P are excellent lines.

For future reference, never trust any charge source to do the right thing out of the box. Nor to report on what's going on accurately.

Ideally get a good battery SoC monitor like SmartGauge, or calibrate things based on a hydrometer's Specific Gravity readings.
 

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There is no way a cheap carbon pile automotive load tester will be at all useful on a 12V 675Ah battery bank, and also not useful on a 6V 225A single battery.

Regardless of your charger's current operation, it is way too small for your bank unless you are predominately tied to a dock.

We had a True Charge as a backup charger on 6 T105's. It was crap. Replaced it with an Iota 95A at half the price, and it works perfectly (as a backup - our main charger is 120A). For the Honda, you are limited to ~70-80A chargers.

Mark
 

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bell ringer
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My battery charger likes to do the same crap of going into float too early. The only way to over ride it is to force it into equalize and keep an eye on it.

A 40 amp charger is pretty small for a 675 ah bank!
 

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https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-bank-tutorial.html
If you are in a series you are doubling voltage not Amp H . You didn't say but I think you are in a series and parallel ? We are sorta in the same boat haha . We have T-105 s' 6 Vs' in a series (225 ah each) making 12 V . I was advised By the Trojan tech I should a have a minium 40 amp charger . Others have told me my 10 amp is fine , it will just take longer . I'm thinking about the Sterling 40 amp , for one reason it is programmable and would fit the bill as per the Trojan owners manual , with it's multi stages and 31.5 V float .
 

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Bombay Explorer 44
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Discussion Starter #8
Batteries are 18 months old. No dead cells all hydrometer readings are 1.280 to 1.282 when fully charged. I am happy that my battery bank is good.

Sterling ProCharge Ultra*and ProMariner Pronautic P are no good to me as my suitcase genny is rated at 1000w and I think 900W continuous

What is annoying me is that I have a 40 amp charger that regulates itself back to 20 amps or less for some reason that I don't understand..
 

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Batteries are 18 months old. No dead cells all hydrometer readings are 1.280 to 1.282 when fully charged. I am happy that my battery bank is good.

Sterling ProCharge Ultra and ProMariner Pronautic P are no good to me as my suitcase genny is rated at 1000w and I think 900W continuous

What is annoying me is that I have a 40 amp charger that regulates itself back to 20 amps or less for some reason that I don't understand..
Either charger lets you de-rate current output, to match the amps available upstream.

That way you can at least get a good strong charge in them when on shore power.

Does your charger do the same on mains? If so, you need a new one, best to buy a good unit, it will last longer than ten banks, go with you to the next boat.

And as long as you have that small a genny, do stick to FLA banks.

If you ever do go to a bigger genny, then AGM will take up the high amp charge much more quickly, just an hour in the morning will give your solar a head start on getting to 100% Full every day.
 

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What is annoying me is that I have a 40 amp charger that regulates itself back to 20 amps or less for some reason that I don't understand..
Are you using only one of the outputs or is there a second battery connected such as a starter?

What gauge wire are you using between the charger and batteries and how long is it?

The TC40 should not dial back current, more than a few %, until it is at absorption voltage.

Are you sure the fan is still working? If not that will cause it to overheat and reduce output.

All that said the charger is a dinosouar and ready for replacement. Xantrex bought Stat power many, many moons ago and the TC-20 & TC-40 were not all that reliable to begin with.

The Sterling Power Chargers are significantly more efficient than the old Statpower's. If you can run a 40A model Stat power you can easily run a Sterling 40A...
 

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Chastened
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I think Main has hit upon the problem:

*If* this is a 2-bank charger rated for 40amps TOTAL output (20 amps per output) and you're only using one output to charge 2 parallel'd batteries, you're never going to see 40 amps.
You'd need to put each battery on its own output to get the 40 total amps.
 

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I think Main has hit upon the problem:

*If* this is a 2-bank charger rated for 40amps TOTAL output (20 amps per output) and you're only using one output to charge 2 parallel'd batteries, you're never going to see 40 amps.
You'd need to put each battery on its own output to get the 40 total amps.
Not with the TC-40. This is only true of elcheapo "auto-former" type chargers such as those by Guest etc...

However if the house bank is the only one that has a shunt, and the charger feeds two banks, then you can't see what is going to the other bank...
 

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Bombay Explorer 44
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Discussion Starter #18
I have never run it off shorepower. The connecting cables are 3 ft long and fairly heavy gauge.

It does have dual output.Will it help if I connect the second output up to the bank. eg feed both outputs to the same bank. Can I do this? I can not see how it can hurt the charger.

The fan runs.

I only need to run this charger two or three times a year when we get several cloudy days in a row. I don't want to spend 500 to a 1200 dollars on a new charger if I can persuade this one to work the way I want it to. .
 

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I am not qualified to provide any technical help but, assuming Xantrex didn't make any significant changes after buying Statpower, the manual for your charger is here:
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/TC20_40(445-0050-01-01_Rev-A).pdf

One thing struck me:
" Current derating in ambient temperatures—automatic output 40 A at 30 °C to 20 A at 50 °C"
Maybe it isn't getting enough cool air or there is a problem with the temperature sensor.


It does have dual output.Will it help if I connect the second output up to the bank. eg feed both outputs to the same bank. Can I do this? I can not see how it can hurt the charger.
I don't think this will work. Mainsail already addressed this and, from the manual:
" Truecharge + has three separate DC positive terminals to allow charging of three separate batteries (or battery banks). The total current into the batteries is a maximum of either 20 am peres or 40 amperes, depending on the model, which is divided amongst the batteries according to their state of discharge."
I did notice that Xantrex has 3 outlets vs your 2. Maybe that is the "+"

Hope this helps.
 
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